TOPIC:

I read somewhere on this site about modifying the stock parts for better leverage.
But I can't find it.

Rick H. wrote: So when you installed it you could tell right away if it pulled too far and make the subsequent correction? I have the nylon worm housing in my KZ-1000 and I am sure it leaves much to be desired in the friction department. I have greased it with some pretty hi tech stuff, but the lever effort still seems excessive.Rick H.

We've learned that even when new, some aftermarket clutch cables will cause excessive clutch lever effort regardless of lube. Replacing with OEM (preferred) or Motion Pro cables has lessened clutch lever effort in every case.

Our preferred cable lube is DriSlide with moly. Goes in as a thin liquid, then the carrier evaporates leaving behind a coat of molybdenum.

We lube the nylon worm mechanism with a 1/2 & 1/2 mix of TriFlow teflon grease and silicone grease. That doesn't make a whole lot of difference in clutch effort but, it's eliminated the stiction that makes it difficult to feather the clutch smoothly from a standing start.

Good Ridin'
slmjim & Z1BEBE

slmjim+Z1BEBE wrote:

Rick H. wrote: So when you installed it you could tell right away if it pulled too far and make the subsequent correction? I have the nylon worm housing in my KZ-1000 and I am sure it leaves much to be desired in the friction department. I have greased it with some pretty hi tech stuff, but the lever effort still seems excessive.Rick H.

We've learned that even when new, some aftermarket clutch cables will cause excessive clutch lever effort regardless of lube. Replacing with OEM (preferred) or Motion Pro cables has lessened clutch lever effort in every case.

Our preferred cable lube is DriSlide with moly. Goes in as a thin liquid, then the carrier evaporates leaving behind a coat of molybdenum.

We lube the nylon worm mechanism with a 1/2 & 1/2 mix of TriFlow teflon grease and silicone grease. That doesn't make a whole lot of difference in clutch effort but, it's eliminated the stiction that makes it difficult to feather the clutch smoothly from a standing start.

Good Ridin'
slmjim & Z1BEBE

Thank you for the reply and suggestions for what grease to use on the nylon worm gear setup. Your description fits my problem to a "T" in as much as I have a difficult time taking off from a dead stop. I try to let the lever out just a bit to get going and 50% of the time I overshoot the initial friction zone I want and take off like crazy or the reverse happens and I kill the engine. Very frustrating but your suggestion for grease on the worm gear may be the cure. I will have to try this and see what happens. Do you know which version of Tri Flow grease you use for this application? It appears there are several versions of Tri Flow grease available.

I have a new OEM clutch cable on the bike, but never thought of using DriSlide. We used DriSlide all the time back in the day, but I forgot all about the stuff as all my recent bikes have had hydraulic clutches on them.
Rick H.

The nylon worm gear seems to wear out on mine which produces slop in the movement. So when I pull on the clutch lever that worm gear gets cocked which then produces more friction. When new it's not to bad but with use it's simply wears out. It's not a good material for longevity.
Prior to assembling the easy clutch I noticed the arm that the cable attaches to is roughly 1/4" longer than the stock one so I'm sure the extra leverage helps quite a bit.

BCScott wrote:

baldy110 wrote: I just got back from a 100 mile ride and the lever is like butter.

I'm jealous! It'll be a long while before I'll be doing any 100 mile rides!

Yeah that picture doesn't look like fun. I HATE the snow so thats the reason I live in sunny Arizona so I can ride all year.

Bulletkz wrote: I read somewhere on this site about modifying the stock parts for better leverage.
But I can't find it.

This is what I did to mine. It helps but the EZ Pull may be the answer.
Steve
kzrider.com/forum/2-engine/601798-clutch-actuator-mod

Baldy when you assembled the actuator into the housing did you fill the housing with any grease? I'm assuming you must want some amount of grease in it with the seal on the end of the housing. And I assume the ball bearing stays in place for the push rod? For the money you would think they could print the instructions in English. Thank goodness they have pictures....LOL!
Rick H.

I greased everything but I didn't fill it with grease. The caged bearings go on top of the adjuster plate with the flat part lined up with the adjuster plate channel. The clutch arm will self align on top of the bearings.

After reading Baldy110's original post I decided to purchase one of these easy pull clutch lever kits. I am sure a better job could have been done on the install directions, they are in Japanese, but I followed along with their pictures as best as I could. I don't know what year sprocket cover they use but it doesn't look like mine. Anyway after trying it this way and that way I think I have it figured out and all I can say is WOW! Bear in mind it's winter where I live so I have only messed with this thing in the garage but it makes a big difference in lever pull effort and in smoothness when releasing the clutch lever. I would agree with Baldy110 in at least a 30% reduction in lever effort if not closer to 40% or more. Obviously a garage test is nothing to take to the bank, but the "stiction" when releasing my old clutch actuator is gone with the new one. That "stiction" as I call it drove me crazy. I may just have to cast fate to the wind and take my KZ for a short maiden voyage. The sun is shining and the road is dry, but only 38 degrees.
Rick H.

Mine arrives today in the mail, Im a novice R&R (remove and replace) mechanic and will try and roll out some pictures. After I get it fingered out.

Got a link to the seller?
Steve

z1 E but came from dime city cycles