TOPIC:

Just installed the easy pull clutch from Z1 Enterprises on my KZ900. Worked as advertised, feels like a hydraulic clutch, smooth and easy pull.

Good, I was thinking about ordering one or converting to hydraulic. This looks much easier.

Looks nice! Is it that this device uses a different leverage ratio or is it that the older 900 uses the helix actuator? I had both to choose from when rebuilding my 750 and went with the ball and ramp type like shown here. It works great and has low hand effort like you mention.

Interestingly, I was just reading a blog about motor oil by a guy that goes by the name of 540 RAT and he says that JASCO MA oils are a farce and the only reason they came into being is because bike manufacturers reduced clutch spring efforts so much, for easy level pull, that the clutches started slipping. He says that standard energy conserving oils should be used in bikes and your clutch won't slip as long as it's up to proper spec. I happen to believe this as evidence by lots of guys on Bob Is The Oil Guy running EC oils in their bikes without issue. Anyway, just thought like sharing...

540ratblog.wordpress.com/2013/06/20/moto...l-wear-test-ranking/

Use CTRL F and then search on "Clutch" if you want to read what this guy has to say. Good stuff.

I still have the actuator for a 350 honda but none of the other parts. I was planning on adapting it to my bike but then I remembered that dreaded POP sound then no clutch. I would have to take off the sprocket cover to re-orientate it to ride again. Keep us apprised on how it's working for you. Might be more converts.
Steve

Nessism wrote: Looks nice! Is it that this device uses a different leverage ratio or is it that the older 900 uses the helix actuator? I had both to choose from when rebuilding my 750 and went with the ball and ramp type like shown here. It works great and has low hand effort like you mention.

Interestingly, I was just reading a blog about motor oil by a guy that goes by the name of 540 RAT and he says that JASCO MA oils are a farce and the only reason they came into being is because bike manufacturers reduced clutch spring efforts so much, for easy level pull, that the clutches started slipping. He says that standard energy conserving oils should be used in bikes and your clutch won't slip as long as it's up to proper spec. I happen to believe this as evidence by lots of guys on Bob Is The Oil Guy running EC oils in their bikes without issue. Anyway, just thought like sharing...

540ratblog.wordpress.com/2013/06/20/moto...l-wear-test-ranking/

Use CTRL F and then search on "Clutch" if you want to read what this guy has to say. Good stuff.

540 RAT is absolutely wrong and apparently is relatively new to motorcycles. I've owned my 1977 KZ650 since it was new. The clutch is not at all weak, and I seriously doubt that any motorcycle manufacturer even though about reducing clutch spring effort back in the 1970's (I find that to be a silly statement by 540 RAT). The simple fact is that when catalytic converters became the norm on cars oil companies changed the additives in oil so the oil would not damage them, and that change in chemistry has a negative affect on wet clutches.

When I bought my bike in early 1977 I used Castrol oil, and it worked perfectly fine for quite a few years until 2006. At some point Castrol had changed the formula by including friction modifiers that would not damage catalytic converters. I don't know how long it took, but that change in chemistry resulted in damage to my KZ650's wet clutch. Up until then I was unfamiliar with the JASO-MA standard, and I didn't realize oil companies changed their formulae to accommodate catalytic converters. But I learned. I replaced the clutch plates and started using oil that was JASO_MA compliant. I have had zero clutch problems since making change (about 20,000 miles ago).

540 RAT should do more research before making such an inaccurate statement about oil. If he was to take a serious look at the recent history of oil and why the JASO_MA standard was introduced he would find that his previous statements are wrong and would correct them. But I won't hold my breath for that to happen. Ed

I've been working on and riding wet clutch bikes since 1974. I had used regular automotive oil up until around 2005. I then started noticing the oil was making the bikes not shift as smooth and my clutches starting slipping. In the past I rarely ever had a clutch slip or had to replace one due to wear. I did a lot of research on oils and discovered there is a difference in the additive packages between auto oil and wet clutch specific oil.
I don't care what some internet idiot says about it I'll keep using what I know works based on my personal experience.

SWest wrote: I still have the actuator for a 350 honda but none of the other parts. I was planning on adapting it to my bike but then I remembered that dreaded POP sound then no clutch. I would have to take off the sprocket cover to re-orientate it to ride again. Keep us apprised on how it's working for you. Might be more converts.
Steve

Are you saying the actuator with this kit is the same as the Honda 350 and some times will malfuntion?

Looks identical. I'll post a pic tomorrow. It worked great until the pop then loose lever. I wonder if they solved that problem with the new aftermarket ones.
Steve

Looking closely at how it all goes together I don't see how anything can pop out everything is captured. What kept popping out on the 350 one?

650ed wrote: 540 RAT is absolutely wrong and apparently is relatively new to motorcycles. I've owned my 1977 KZ650 since it was new. The clutch is not at all weak, and I seriously doubt that any motorcycle manufacturer even though about reducing clutch spring effort back in the 1970's (I find that to be a silly statement by 540 RAT). The simple fact is that when catalytic converters became the norm on cars oil companies changed the additives in oil so the oil would not damage them, and that change in chemistry has a negative affect on wet clutches.

When I bought my bike in early 1977 I used Castrol oil, and it worked perfectly fine for quite a few years until 2006. At some point Castrol had changed the formula by including friction modifiers that would not damage catalytic converters. I don't know how long it took, but that change in chemistry resulted in damage to my KZ650's wet clutch. Up until then I was unfamiliar with the JASO-MA standard, and I didn't realize oil companies changed their formulae to accommodate catalytic converters. But I learned. I replaced the clutch plates and started using oil that was JASO_MA compliant. I have had zero clutch problems since making change (about 20,000 miles ago).

540 RAT should do more research before making such an inaccurate statement about oil. If he was to take a serious look at the recent history of oil and why the JASO_MA standard was introduced he would find that his previous statements are wrong and would correct them. But I won't hold my breath for that to happen. Ed

You didn't even bother to read what he wrote. I suspect that guy knows more about oil than the collective here on all of KZR.
Your bike's clutch would most likely have been fine using that auto oil if you were to have replaced the clutch springs with new OEM. You can't judge anything while running 30 year old springs.

baldy110 wrote: Looking closely at how it all goes together I don't see how anything can pop out everything is captured. What kept popping out on the 350 one?

I think it rotated too far and got stuck. We've had some complaints here with the same symptoms.
Steve

Nessism wrote:

650ed wrote: 540 RAT is absolutely wrong and apparently is relatively new to motorcycles. I've owned my 1977 KZ650 since it was new. The clutch is not at all weak, and I seriously doubt that any motorcycle manufacturer even though about reducing clutch spring effort back in the 1970's (I find that to be a silly statement by 540 RAT). The simple fact is that when catalytic converters became the norm on cars oil companies changed the additives in oil so the oil would not damage them, and that change in chemistry has a negative affect on wet clutches.

When I bought my bike in early 1977 I used Castrol oil, and it worked perfectly fine for quite a few years until 2006. At some point Castrol had changed the formula by including friction modifiers that would not damage catalytic converters. I don't know how long it took, but that change in chemistry resulted in damage to my KZ650's wet clutch. Up until then I was unfamiliar with the JASO-MA standard, and I didn't realize oil companies changed their formulae to accommodate catalytic converters. But I learned. I replaced the clutch plates and started using oil that was JASO_MA compliant. I have had zero clutch problems since making change (about 20,000 miles ago).

540 RAT should do more research before making such an inaccurate statement about oil. If he was to take a serious look at the recent history of oil and why the JASO_MA standard was introduced he would find that his previous statements are wrong and would correct them. But I won't hold my breath for that to happen. Ed

You didn't even bother to read what he wrote. I suspect that guy knows more about oil than the collective here on all of KZR.
Your bike's clutch would most likely have been fine using that auto oil if you were to have replaced the clutch springs with new OEM. You can't judge anything while running 30 year old springs.

With due respect to all, standard automobile oils have friction modifiers in them and do cause clutch slip and roller bearing skate, modern wet clutch oils MA are specific and do work, i have recently rebuilt an XS650, new clutch and heavy duty springs, initially i used an oil that was not MA and the clutch slipped like there was no tomorrow, i drained it off and washed the plates out in Gas, and put a MA specific oil in and no clutch slip whatsoever, and yes there was a time that regular motor oils were the right stuff, but since the early 2000's friction modifiers have been added to them thus making them unsuitable for motorcycles unless you just trundle along at a snails pace and don't mind doing 0 to 60 in 3 days, my own experiences confirm that we need MA oils, i have also read many articles and studies on the subject including 540 rat's articles, some of his info is accurate and some is a load of pith, 650ed is correct on this one.