TOPIC:

I don't care what forum I venture to, but universally they all will talk about oil(s) and what is best for a certain car, truck or motorcycle. Invariably these comments will spark a heated conversation that sometimes gets out of hand and ends up pissing people off. From a personal standpoint I run what I run based on multiple sources and my own personal experience garnered over 50 years of experience. I wouldn't believe one persons comments about oil anymore than I believe one weathermans forecast about tomorrows weather. When you talk about shared unit oil, or oil that is used by the engine, trans and clutch everything changes. Picking oils for a single use was easy when it was used in a single component say for a clutch, or transmission, but not so when it is used for multiple applications. Modifiers for wet clutches are important as oil formulations changed. Just as important have been friction modifiers which sustain the shear factor that an oil has especially over a given time period. Many a BMW K1600 owner has learned this point in short order. I would no more think of putting a normal oil in my K1600 than put Coke-a-Cola in it. I personally would love to see separate oil reservoirs for each driveline component as one oil for everything such as Kawasaki KZ's and Z's and BMW K1600's use was never a good idea and was nothing more than a cheap cost effective manufacturing method. Selecting one oil for everything on a motorcycle is like finding a three season jacket that really works well. In the end you end up with at best a compromise and a jacket that doesn't do anything well and looks terrible.

To Baldy110: Thanks for the update on the EZ pull clutch lever. I too have been thinking of getting one that would hopefully bring my KZ-1000 clutch lever effort more in line with my K1600 GTL. I understand the install directions are in Japanese, how did the install go on this unit?
Rick H.

The instructions were pretty much useless but if you have any mechanical experience it's an easy install.
I didn't mean to but sorry for starting yet another oil thread.

baldy110 wrote: Looking closely at how it all goes together I don't see how anything can pop out everything is captured. What kept popping out on the 350 one?

The dreaded "pop" would be the cam balls jumping or rolling into the next slot if not properly adjusted. The ball / cam design, while being easier to pull, does have some drawbacks.

This ball / screw design can not do that, although it has it's own little set of problems.


Just a little bit of patience required to assemble.

When I put it together I noticed how it could rotate to far but since this isn't my first rodeo I adjusted it accordingly. I'll just have to use it a lot and see.

So when you installed it you could tell right away if it pulled too far and make the subsequent correction? I have the nylon worm housing in my KZ-1000 and I am sure it leaves much to be desired in the friction department. I have greased it with some pretty hi tech stuff, but the lever effort still seems excessive.

Rick H.

With the ramp and ball clutch actuator it's critical to get the arm positioned correctly or the ramp will jump over the top. I misassembled my 750''s clutch actuator and learned this first hand.

Regarding oils, I've never gone out of my way to buy MA oil going back decades. It's a money grab in my view and completely unnecessary. Mind you I use diesel oil in my bikes and have never one time had a clutch slip. I can understand some people's hesitation towards using friction modified oils but remember, almost all of those are the thin grades, not 10W-40 and thicker.

Many of the diesel oils are JASO-MA certified. One example is Shell Rotella T6. The second page in the link below shows the list of specifications and approvals. Ed

rotella.shell.com/en_us/products/full-sy...73/t6-sae-15w-40.pdf

Rick H. wrote: So when you installed it you could tell right away if it pulled too far and make the subsequent correction? I have the nylon worm housing in my KZ-1000 and I am sure it leaves much to be desired in the friction department. I have greased it with some pretty hi tech stuff, but the lever effort still seems excessive.

Rick H.

I saw the possible problem while I was assembling it. I loosened all the cable adjusters then turned the clutch adjuster on the case counter clockwise until it stopped then turned clockwise about 1 /8 turn. At that point the caged balls would not be able to move enough to jump the ramp. Then I adjusted the cable adjuster to get the lever to the top. I pulled then released the clutch lever several times. Started the engine then fine adjusted the adjuster at the lever. The engagement point is about 1" from the bar. I just got back from a 100 mile ride and the lever is like butter.

Has anyone use one of these?
Don't think I would because it's too visible.


rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A...2Fitm%2F133204919716

Many years ago I messed around with something similar on a HD bagger that I put a heavy duty clutch package in. The one I had mounted on the handlebar near the clutch lever and it was certainly noticeable. While it worked to make the clutch easier to pull it also reduced the grey area of the clutch to almost nothing. The clutch worked like a light switch on that bike...on or off. I kept it on for about a week and couldn't stand it anymore so I took it off. I also installed a stock clutch pack in the bike which helped more than the so called EZee Clutch lever. thing.

Rick H.

baldy110 wrote: I just got back from a 100 mile ride and the lever is like butter.

I'm jealous! It'll be a long while before I'll be doing any 100 mile rides!

Rick H. wrote: I don't care what forum I venture to, but universally they all will talk about oil(s) and what is best for a certain car, truck or motorcycle. Invariably these comments will spark a heated conversation that sometimes gets out of hand and ends up pissing people off. From a personal standpoint I run what I run based on multiple sources and my own personal experience garnered over 50 years of experience. I wouldn't believe one persons comments about oil anymore than I believe one weathermans forecast about tomorrows weather. When you talk about shared unit oil, or oil that is used by the engine, trans and clutch everything changes. Picking oils for a single use was easy when it was used in a single component say for a clutch, or transmission, but not so when it is used for multiple applications. Modifiers for wet clutches are important as oil formulations changed. Just as important have been friction modifiers which sustain the shear factor that an oil has especially over a given time period. Many a BMW K1600 owner has learned this point in short order. I would no more think of putting a normal oil in my K1600 than put Coke-a-Cola in it. I personally would love to see separate oil reservoirs for each driveline component as one oil for everything such as Kawasaki KZ's and Z's and BMW K1600's use was never a good idea and was nothing more than a cheap cost effective manufacturing method. Selecting one oil for everything on a motorcycle is like finding a three season jacket that really works well. In the end you end up with at best a compromise and a jacket that doesn't do anything well and looks terrible.

To Baldy110: Thanks for the update on the EZ pull clutch lever. I too have been thinking of getting one that would hopefully bring my KZ-1000 clutch lever effort more in line with my K1600 GTL. I understand the install directions are in Japanese, how did the install go on this unit?
Rick H.

Google translate has a translate from phone camera option that will translate a handful of lines at a time, if that helps. I use it a bit to translate the Chinese writing on some of the equipment we get at work. Not perfect, but does get the idea across.