TOPIC:

Has anyone use one of these?
Don't think I would because it's too visible.


rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A...2Fitm%2F133204919716

Many years ago I messed around with something similar on a HD bagger that I put a heavy duty clutch package in. The one I had mounted on the handlebar near the clutch lever and it was certainly noticeable. While it worked to make the clutch easier to pull it also reduced the grey area of the clutch to almost nothing. The clutch worked like a light switch on that bike...on or off. I kept it on for about a week and couldn't stand it anymore so I took it off. I also installed a stock clutch pack in the bike which helped more than the so called EZee Clutch lever. thing.

Rick H.

baldy110 wrote: I just got back from a 100 mile ride and the lever is like butter.

I'm jealous! It'll be a long while before I'll be doing any 100 mile rides!

Rick H. wrote: I don't care what forum I venture to, but universally they all will talk about oil(s) and what is best for a certain car, truck or motorcycle. Invariably these comments will spark a heated conversation that sometimes gets out of hand and ends up pissing people off. From a personal standpoint I run what I run based on multiple sources and my own personal experience garnered over 50 years of experience. I wouldn't believe one persons comments about oil anymore than I believe one weathermans forecast about tomorrows weather. When you talk about shared unit oil, or oil that is used by the engine, trans and clutch everything changes. Picking oils for a single use was easy when it was used in a single component say for a clutch, or transmission, but not so when it is used for multiple applications. Modifiers for wet clutches are important as oil formulations changed. Just as important have been friction modifiers which sustain the shear factor that an oil has especially over a given time period. Many a BMW K1600 owner has learned this point in short order. I would no more think of putting a normal oil in my K1600 than put Coke-a-Cola in it. I personally would love to see separate oil reservoirs for each driveline component as one oil for everything such as Kawasaki KZ's and Z's and BMW K1600's use was never a good idea and was nothing more than a cheap cost effective manufacturing method. Selecting one oil for everything on a motorcycle is like finding a three season jacket that really works well. In the end you end up with at best a compromise and a jacket that doesn't do anything well and looks terrible.

To Baldy110: Thanks for the update on the EZ pull clutch lever. I too have been thinking of getting one that would hopefully bring my KZ-1000 clutch lever effort more in line with my K1600 GTL. I understand the install directions are in Japanese, how did the install go on this unit?
Rick H.

Google translate has a translate from phone camera option that will translate a handful of lines at a time, if that helps. I use it a bit to translate the Chinese writing on some of the equipment we get at work. Not perfect, but does get the idea across.

I read somewhere on this site about modifying the stock parts for better leverage.
But I can't find it.

Rick H. wrote: So when you installed it you could tell right away if it pulled too far and make the subsequent correction? I have the nylon worm housing in my KZ-1000 and I am sure it leaves much to be desired in the friction department. I have greased it with some pretty hi tech stuff, but the lever effort still seems excessive.Rick H.

We've learned that even when new, some aftermarket clutch cables will cause excessive clutch lever effort regardless of lube. Replacing with OEM (preferred) or Motion Pro cables has lessened clutch lever effort in every case.

Our preferred cable lube is DriSlide with moly. Goes in as a thin liquid, then the carrier evaporates leaving behind a coat of molybdenum.

We lube the nylon worm mechanism with a 1/2 & 1/2 mix of TriFlow teflon grease and silicone grease. That doesn't make a whole lot of difference in clutch effort but, it's eliminated the stiction that makes it difficult to feather the clutch smoothly from a standing start.

Good Ridin'
slmjim & Z1BEBE

slmjim+Z1BEBE wrote:

Rick H. wrote: So when you installed it you could tell right away if it pulled too far and make the subsequent correction? I have the nylon worm housing in my KZ-1000 and I am sure it leaves much to be desired in the friction department. I have greased it with some pretty hi tech stuff, but the lever effort still seems excessive.Rick H.

We've learned that even when new, some aftermarket clutch cables will cause excessive clutch lever effort regardless of lube. Replacing with OEM (preferred) or Motion Pro cables has lessened clutch lever effort in every case.

Our preferred cable lube is DriSlide with moly. Goes in as a thin liquid, then the carrier evaporates leaving behind a coat of molybdenum.

We lube the nylon worm mechanism with a 1/2 & 1/2 mix of TriFlow teflon grease and silicone grease. That doesn't make a whole lot of difference in clutch effort but, it's eliminated the stiction that makes it difficult to feather the clutch smoothly from a standing start.

Good Ridin'
slmjim & Z1BEBE

Thank you for the reply and suggestions for what grease to use on the nylon worm gear setup. Your description fits my problem to a "T" in as much as I have a difficult time taking off from a dead stop. I try to let the lever out just a bit to get going and 50% of the time I overshoot the initial friction zone I want and take off like crazy or the reverse happens and I kill the engine. Very frustrating but your suggestion for grease on the worm gear may be the cure. I will have to try this and see what happens. Do you know which version of Tri Flow grease you use for this application? It appears there are several versions of Tri Flow grease available.

I have a new OEM clutch cable on the bike, but never thought of using DriSlide. We used DriSlide all the time back in the day, but I forgot all about the stuff as all my recent bikes have had hydraulic clutches on them.
Rick H.

The nylon worm gear seems to wear out on mine which produces slop in the movement. So when I pull on the clutch lever that worm gear gets cocked which then produces more friction. When new it's not to bad but with use it's simply wears out. It's not a good material for longevity.
Prior to assembling the easy clutch I noticed the arm that the cable attaches to is roughly 1/4" longer than the stock one so I'm sure the extra leverage helps quite a bit.

BCScott wrote:

baldy110 wrote: I just got back from a 100 mile ride and the lever is like butter.

I'm jealous! It'll be a long while before I'll be doing any 100 mile rides!

Yeah that picture doesn't look like fun. I HATE the snow so thats the reason I live in sunny Arizona so I can ride all year.

Bulletkz wrote: I read somewhere on this site about modifying the stock parts for better leverage.
But I can't find it.

This is what I did to mine. It helps but the EZ Pull may be the answer.
Steve
kzrider.com/forum/2-engine/601798-clutch-actuator-mod

Baldy when you assembled the actuator into the housing did you fill the housing with any grease? I'm assuming you must want some amount of grease in it with the seal on the end of the housing. And I assume the ball bearing stays in place for the push rod? For the money you would think they could print the instructions in English. Thank goodness they have pictures....LOL!
Rick H.

I greased everything but I didn't fill it with grease. The caged bearings go on top of the adjuster plate with the flat part lined up with the adjuster plate channel. The clutch arm will self align on top of the bearings.