So basically I upgraded my stator in my daily driver CSR from the stock 2 phase, to a 3 phase system from a KZ1000 police bike. The gasket failed slightly and caused a small leak. I figured it was a slight perpetual oil change, and I had absolutely no problems with the bike as I just filled it back up with oil every couple days.
My roommate just snagged his grandpas old motorcycles, so we went on a couple looooooong rides, and on the last one, my engine seized and my back tire locked up on me going about 40mph
I'm new, this is my second bike, 4th year riding and I'm determined to get it back on the road before the summers over.
From what I have gathered, one of two things happened. I either ran out of oil and my pistons are shot and need bored,
I got the bike with a broken starter clutch, maybe some pieces broke off?
I'll be loading up my bike and bringing her home tomorrow, I was hoping to get some advice on the tools I'll need, and what to start looking at once she's home.
Again I have a 82 kz750 csr twin, from the Quad Cities (illinois)
Rear drum brake. Within the realm of possibility. maybe the rear brake locked the wheel. with old brake shoes the adhesive becomes brittle over time, so a lining can separate from a shoe, then get jammed between the shoe & drum, locking the rear wheel. It happened to me, so it does happen. Even if this isn't your problem, you should replace the Rr brake shoes if their age is unknown.
I had a rotor come loose and freeze up the motor. The axis was so bad it was making horrible noises. That was back when a new one cost $300 and I didn't have much work so I couldn't afford it. When it happened the noise went away then RRRRRRR clunk. It stopped. Froze solid. I couldn't get the cover off until I used two wide wood chisels tapping on them little by little all the way around. It finally came off. I took the rotor off and charged the battery before and after I came home from work. I managed to find a used one after a month of this but I had to buy a stator too. Once it was all done I was good to go until something else happened. I learned to stay up on any noises rather than to keep riding until it broke.
Did yours make any noise before it stopped?
No noises before it seized, but my kickstart is locked up too. Would that be a symptom of a rotor coming loose?? I'm sure that's just a general symptom of a seized engine, but I'm just trying to be as specific as I can I guess.
Can someone send a picture of the specific part (rotor) I'm supposed to be looking at? It's under the stator cover, or where my chain is located? What's the specific rotor called/where can I find new parts of I need 'em?
I couldn't find a friend with a truck so I'll be walking her home today. Bout 2 miles. Wish me luck.
Hey at least that 750 twin is super light... (sorry )
So if you look at the left side of the engine, below the cylinder block, there is a big round protrusion that says "Kawasaki". If you remove that cover you will find the starter and starter clutch, but the main thing you see is the alternator. The alternator consists of the stator which is a big spoke-wheel looking thing which stays attached to the cover (which you said you already replaced to convert to 3-phase). Then there is the flywheel which is a big cup-shaped thing bolted directly to the crankshaft. We call it the rotor because it is the magnetic rotor for the alternator (in addition to being the flywheel). On your bike, the starter clutch attaches to the back of the rotor, I think.
Anyway, the hex bolt at the center of the rotor can come loose and possibly interfere with the cover, which will then lock up the entire motor, kickstart and all. Note: there is a chance the bolt is left-hand thread.
If you haven't recently messed with that bolt then it seems less likely that is the problem, unless the bike is new to you.
Once you get it home, one thing you can do is remove the plugs to eliminate compression, put the bike on the center stand, and try to rotate the rear wheel backward in gear. Don't use a lot of force, just arm strength but don't use chain-slack and momentum to bang it. If it is the crank, you should still be able to get the bike in first or neutral by wiggling the rear wheel while operating the shift lever.
If it suddenly moves freely in reverse, don't go forward. put it in neutral and look under that cover.
Oh, and I guess we don't know yet, but...does the motor have oil in it? In other words does the window show a normal oil level, or is it in fact out of oil. If it shows no oil, then I guess your original assessment is more likely, unfortunately.
My rotor is as it should be. Looks like she ran out of oil. It wasn't bone dry, but only a few drops came out of the case when I took it off, and its not leaking at all with the case off and it leaning on its kickstand..
Lesson learned. Keep oil in your bike. Lol
Should I take the rotor off and see if it could possibly be the starter clutch before I have to take the engine out of my bike, or should I just bite the bullet and start taking her apart? Any DIY tricks to getting this motor out and open?
SWest wrote: Drain the oil first and see what comes out.
Do what Steve says.
Do you have a sight glass for the oil level? Does it show anything when the bike is upright and level?
Oil normally wouldn't pour out of the alternator cover (when not running). There will be oil in there, but only splashed, not sitting. You may have to tip the bike more than just kick-stand level to get oil to pour out.
When you drain the oil you will see if any metal shavings come out with the oil. Then you'll know if it's game over.
So are you saying you can hear the pistons moving up and down when you roll the bike backward in gear? But if you go forward it will move a bit then lockup?
I would remove the little ignition cover on the right side. That has a bolt holding the advancer that can cone loose as well.
And I suppose next would be the entire clutch cover or oil pan but those are far less convenient to remove. I wonder if there is anything goofy under the sprocket cover...that's pretty easy to pull off.