Bike won't start after warmed up (Part 2)

ThatFiveOhTho wrote: Yes, factory spec. B8ES if I remember correctly.

The new valve cover gasket has been ordered. Just to clarify, I looked in the manual and came up with a different photo then you.

Good Fortune!

I do it this way.
Steve

Haha don't get me wrong. Not trying to beat a dead horse, since I've already checked with the cam pointing directly away, and more then likely I'll be checking at more than one angle and recording it. Just getting tired of buying valve cover gaskets.

I read somewhere else of someone getting different clearences based on cam position. We will see though.

Thanks for your help. I'll be posting back my findings sometime next week.

I just saw this, but don't recall part 1. My bike use to do this out at the strip, but i could kick start it just fine. The problem was voltage to the coils was not adequate. I did the wired George mod to fix mine. Fix is putting that strongly, it really does not fix the real issue, but instead you are wiring your way around the problem. I still have it that way and it's been quite a few years so it worked for me. Anyway, after yours warms up and won't start on the electric starter will it kick start?

I don't think the 1982 KZ750-E2 has a kick starter, but it is still a valid question as to whether or not the engine will start if the electric starter is not used. If there's no kick starter I would try to bump (push) start the bike to see if it starts right up. If it does that should help you diagnose the problem. If bump starting it doesn't work you may want to turn the crankshaft with a wrench to see if the engine is unusually tight when hot. Ed

650ed wrote: . . . may want to turn the crankshaft with a wrench to see if the engine is unusually tight when hot. Ed

When doing this, it's best not to use the head of the bolt that screws into the end of the crankshaft. Because the bolt head might shear off.

Use the 17mm "fake" nut.

Good Fortune!

To be blatantly honest I have no idea if it's harder to turn. I've never tested that since the starter works at the same speed at any temp. It is electric start only, and likewise Ive never bump started a motorcycle either.

I have done the coil mod, and I get 12.25 v to the coil. Doesn't make any difference. Still takes about 7 seconds to fire.

I will check later today on the crankshaft tension.

So, kind of unrelated (maybe.) But I seem to have an oil leak from the head gasket, on the left side of the bike. I cleaned the oil off a few days ago and it's back. I'll probably retorque the head nuts to a full 42 ftlbs before the valve clearences are checked next weekend.

Isn't that too much. Mine says 30.
Steve

ThatFiveOhTho wrote: So, kind of unrelated (maybe.) But I seem to have an oil leak from the head gasket, on the left side of the bike. I cleaned the oil off a few days ago and it's back. I'll probably retorque the head nuts to a full 42 ftlbs before the valve clearences are checked next weekend.

Holy cow - Where in the world did you see anything that stated 42 ft lbs? You really need to consult the Kawasaki Service Manual before you ruin that engine. Here's a cut & paste from the torque table. Ed

I remember reading it off of a post regarding the very same issue, probably a different bike. I would have checked the manual regarding torque specs when it was time to do them but I appreciate the snappy correction none the less. Is the procedure still individually loosen a half turn and then retorque to 29ft-lbs or am I fudging that up too :laugh: