TOPIC:

multimeter is on its way, but in the meanwhile, can y'all advise me, and possibly save me a load of testing time, and tell if this stator looks toasted? i don't have the knowledge to eyeball a stator and say yay or nay yet.




i can grab a better picture tomorrow if need be. but the amount of lacquer type material that looks to have bubbled doesn't seem right...

cheers,
sean

It does look like it got hot. pic of the inside of the rotor?
Steve

SWest wrote: It does look like it got hot. pic of the inside of the rotor?
Steve

+1

Doesn't necessarily mean it is bad though. I had my stator tested at an auto-electric service business, where they rebuild starters and alternators for cars...while I waited at the counter! Cost me a few bucks, only because I insisted on paying the guy.

Those folks are good people to know.

@swest, i wasn't able to get over to the garage today unfortunately, but i'll post up tomorrow with a shot of the rotor. thanks for your help!

If it overheated even if it works, the wires will have more resistance causing low output.
Steve

^i'm planning on replacing the R/R with one from Rick's, so I guess I might as well get a new stator as well to be safe. Here's a handful of pictures of the rotor and the stator.

It's your money, not mine, buy why replace a stator that may be perfectly fine and may even be better than the new one you purchase? To me it would make a LOT more sense to simply test it rather than arbitrarily replace it. The test is described in the Kawasaki Service Manual. That test would then indicate if the stator is good or bad. Ed

Ed's right. Not hard to do at all. I did mine according to the service manual and found that the it was a problem with the regulator and not the stator. Simply replaced the reg/rect with a one piece unit since mine was the older sperate design. I used deoxit on all the connecters on the bike and connector grease as well. My head light intensity used to vary with the rpm. But since the repair, there is no change in intensity with the changes in rpm. Of course, I did retest everything after the repair to make sure all was within spec.

A SERIES type R/R, like the Shindengen SH775, will reduce potential heat damage like shown on that R/R. Polaris used SH775's in their RZR and Ranger models, and you can get good used units off ebay for about $38 shipped. I'd take a used SH775 over any new SHUNT type R/R on the market, like that Rick's R/R.

650ed is right, rotor and the stator are in good condition and there is no need to waste your money.
Stator is dark colored over the years by the head of the oil but the isolation of the copper wire looks like not cracked or shorted internal.
Did it smell burnt or better did you do shortcut test with a multimeter ( Beep the 3 wires current passage each other )???

Michael

Windings and stator look normal.
Colour is from hot oil staining.
Just check the output with a multimeter and leave alone if you get the same or very similar readings within the service parameters from each phase.
Obviously if one phase is significantly low or zero then repair or replace the windings.

For what it's worth...

On my 750E I had two different used stators that met the specs in the manual, yet the output was weak. Both had about .8 ohm of resistance across all the various paths, and both also showed no load voltages of about 75 VAC. Despite this the charging system voltage couldn't get over 13.7 VDC. I tried several different R/R's and made sure the wiring was fresh but still no love. Bit the bullet and bought a new Ricks stator and charging system voltage immediately went to 14.5 VDC. Interestingly, the Rick's stator had more resistance across the windings than the clapped out OEM stators - about .85 ohms.

Bottom line is that the service manual specs do not gurantee the stator is good. The proof is in the pudding when the stator is under load.