Kawi J engine squish clearance?

Scirocco wrote: Ok thanks, I have missed this info.

SWest wrote: One punched circle around the pin

Maybe a tool for a punched circle.

In my opinion i would go the Loctite way and see what happend. I am not a friend of mechanical force on sensible engine parts .

Michael

Yeah. I don't want to go at it too hard, and once the bearings are tight in the case there should be no force on the dowels.

Got the case halves all cleaned up. Tomorrow I'm gonna test assemble to see the clearance at the bearing journals.

I'm sure other members can understand that rebuilding a worn engine, and rebuilding an engine that someone screwed up are two different projects. Nightmare!

Thank you for everybodies help....

All the new Wiseco Piston kits for KZ motors I've been buying lately come with the new MLS head gaskets. If you're still getting kits with the old composite gaskets they are old stock kits.

Here's a J head....see any squish left in it?

To be fair it's setup for a 1428 drag bike and also has 40 / 33 valves.

The point being that little bit of squish in a stock J head isn't a huge factor in making HP.

LarryC wrote: All the new Wiseco Piston kits for KZ motors I've been buying lately come with the new MLS head gaskets. If you're still getting kits with the old composite gaskets they are old stock kits.

I didn't realize:
www.wiseco.com/ProductDetail.aspx?ItemID...ear=1982&AppID=66304
How are they holding up?

Thanks Larry. This could be the answer to my head gasket worries.

LarryC wrote: Here's a J head....see any squish left in it?

To be fair it's setup for a 1428 drag bike and also has 40 / 33 valves.

The point being that little bit of squish in a stock J head isn't a huge factor in making HP.

I understand the small amount of squish area doesn't mean a lot, but at this point I'm willing to go the extra step with zero deck clearance to give me the .040" squish.

OK. Plastigauge came out .0015 - .002 across the board. Used a small spring-loaded punch on the main cap and the mark raised the surface about .003". With a second shot I get about .0045".

Pic, I used three.
Steve

If I lay the cap on the crank it now pivots slightly, Originally it sat flush with no tension on the bearing. With additional punches across the cap, and the Loctite it will definitely be tight.

Do no more punches, use some drops of Loctite on the journal or outer bearing surface. Loctite will fill the micro gap and centered the bearing in the journal. Loctite will fill the tension in the bearing journal you are missing and hold the bearing in position permanently.
You have to degrease all parts before use Loctite to get the best results.

Michael

I did it along the radius. I didn't like the rocking. If I could I would have replaced the main bolts.
www.kzzone.com/studs.html
ape-store.com/shopsite/page20.html
Steve

I checked the clearance at the trans bearing journals also and got the same thing, about .002". So I'm gonna apply the fix to all.

I'm gonna go with 3 pairs of punches with one shot at each journal. I got the little pivot at the main cap doing that, but I'm not too worried about cracking the case. These are just little dimples that get flattened when you torque them down, as opposed to the additional force if you added .003" of metal to the entire journal. Plus the pivot at the main cap from the twisted crank was huge, and it didn't break anything.