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Low compression, oil out the breather. kz900/1000
- 650ed
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This is my 4th Kawasaki, and I've put clutch springs in ALL of them. [/quote]
That does not seem normal to me. Exactly what oil are you using in the engine? Ed
1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)
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- SWest
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- 10 22 2014
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Steve
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- MadShad
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I have friction disks on the shelf if I need them, I've just used ebc springs in all of them for $10 a set, seems to work great.
All of my bikes were purchased either non running or running poorly, most have set for years. This one had been sitting for at least 5 years.
All had what looked like oem springs.
Shelbyville, Indiana. '80 KZ1000
No more of that talk or I'll put the leeches on you, understand?
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- SWest
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Steve
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- MadShad
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Break in miles are done, oil and filter is changed, ignition timing is set, carbs are rejetted, needles are adjusted.
The bike runs great, no leaks and the bike pulls hard!
Very happy with the result!
Shelbyville, Indiana. '80 KZ1000
No more of that talk or I'll put the leeches on you, understand?
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- SWest
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- 10 22 2014
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Steve
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- loudhvx
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With all of the clutch slippage you've experienced, are you sure you are not overfilling the oil? That always makes my bikes slip. But as long as there is a good size air bubble at the top of the sight glass, when on the wheels (not center stand), vertical, I usually have no problems.
1981 KZ550 D1 gpz.
Kz550 valve train warning.
Other links.
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- MadShad
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The whole enchilada....
Springs fixed it 4 out of 4 times.
Shelbyville, Indiana. '80 KZ1000
No more of that talk or I'll put the leeches on you, understand?
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- KZB2 650
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1978 KZ650 b-2
700cc Wiseco kit 10 to 1.
1980 KZ750 cam, ape springs, stock clutch/ Barnett springs.
Vance and Hines Header w/ comp baffle and Ape pods, Dyna S and green coils, copper wires.
29MM smooth bores W/ 17.5 pilots, 0-6s and 117.5 main
16/42 gearing X ring chain and alum rear JT sprocket.
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- SWest
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Steve
. kzrider.com/forum/2-engine/601798-clutch-actuator-mod
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- loudhvx
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MadShad wrote: Yep since this is my 4th Kaw with slipping clutched I've exhausted all other options, overfilled oil, wrong oil, adjustment (both method s depending on actuator type), friction disk thickness, steel plate orientation, polishing fingers on clutch basket and steel plates, dragging clutch cable, clean and relube actuator,
The whole enchilada....
Springs fixed it 4 out of 4 times.
Ok, well as long as it works! Sorry, you've probably detailed all of that before... I post on a lot of similar threads :S
Can't wait to see the finished pics!
1981 KZ550 D1 gpz.
Kz550 valve train warning.
Other links.
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- loudhvx
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swest wrote: I can't comment on the smaller fours but My clutch always was to stiff no matter what I did. Never had a slip issue. Finally copied Dave's mod Broke cables once a year or so. I think I solved that problem.
Steve
. kzrider.com/forum/2-engine/601798-clutch-actuator-mod
The 550 clutches are very light from the factory. If it's stock and stiff, it's usually the cable getting some drag. The factory cable is much better than the aftermarket ones I tried.
I have an actuator taken apart and ready to weld/drill after seeing your post. Just to experiment with.... like I said, the 550 clutches are pretty light already.
1981 KZ550 D1 gpz.
Kz550 valve train warning.
Other links.
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