So, how screwed am I? - Exhaust cam

swest wrote: I don't think so. :whistle:
Steve

"I don't think so " about what?

Motor swap or oil passages.
Steve

After changing the cam, it wouldn't hurt to run it with fresh oil for a little while, drain and put new oil again. Some might think it's a waste but it won't cost much and you might still find bits coming out on the second oil change.

swest wrote: Motor swap or oil passages.
Steve

These engines are very cheep to buy. I've paid as little as $25 for a b1 engine. I have 4 of these engines.
It would be easy to see if the oil passages are full of glitter, When the oil filter cover is removed to change the filter, take a long q-tip and swab the oil passage locate at about 10 o'clock. No glitter and you are good to go. If the q-tip comes out of that oil passage with metal particles, everything is contaminated. These engines are full of needle and roller bearings. It doesn't take much to screw them up.

If the oil filter is doing it's job, there should be no problem. I would and do change the oil twice just for GP. Glad to hear you engines are plentiful and cheap. mine aren't. :dry:
Steve

Kapahulu wrote: After changing the cam, it wouldn't hurt to run it with fresh oil for a little while, drain and put new oil again. Some might think it's a waste but it won't cost much and you might still find bits coming out on the second oil change.

I like that idea (filter too) ......... After I did the 700 kit I changed the oil at either at 50 or 100miles (have it wrote down some where but I forget exactly) ...... then at least twice more before I did the final one at 600....... like you say some won't agree but I felt it was cheap insurance..........had a lot of STP and assembly lube to get rid of the first time but mostly wanted to get the glitter (cyl walls breaking in) out and keep the motor clean.

Two oil changes it is! My replacement cam shipped today. I'll keep you all posted.

Well damn. It happened again. I got a new cam and swapped it out. Pulled the oil pan and oil pump. Cleaned the gunk out of the pan (not much metal debris but lots of sludge) and inspected the pump (no scoring or damage). Checked valve clearance, etc.

This time I was super careful about putting that tach gear in. I did it while the valve cover was off so I could see what was going on. I made sure the tach gear and cam were meshing, turned it over by hand a few times to make sure the tach gear was turning. Everything looked good.

Buttoned everything back up and started it.Tachometer was working. I hopped off to look around and check for oil leaks. When I looked up, the tach had stopped working.

I cut the bike off immediately. Pulled the tach gear out and a bunch of metal shavings came out again. WTF am I doing wrong??!!

Photos of my cam swap are below in case they're helpful to anyone.

Setting to top dead center.


Marked the cam gear and chain with red nail polish to aid in reassembly


Just keeping the chain from falling down.


Gunk in the oil pan.


Inside the oil pump.


New cam in place.

With out re-reading the whole thread.... did you also replace the drive gear with the new cams?
how about the drive gear, shaft bushing in the head boss?
I'm at a loss.... I've yanked that thing in and out dozens of times on dozens of bikes and never had a fouled one...????

This started with a leak at the tach cable. Replaced tach seal, somehow shredded cam. Replaced cam. Shredded it again.

Installing the tach gear should be super simple. I can't figure out what i did wrong.

New drive gear and holder? Is the stop in the head munged up?
Steve

New holder (guide) yes. The gear looked fine so i rused it.

I don't think there's a stop in the head. None that i could see on the parts diagram anyway.