Cam cap bolts stripped

New user here, I'll do my best to be thorough. We've all seen it, we all know it's gonna happen. I bought a 1982 kz550C off a guy a bit ago, I'm about to finish a cam lash adjustment, #4 was 014 and making one heck of a tick. Shim adjusted, cams TDC, and as I follow the updated repair manual I got off loudhvx's tag line, specified 104in/lbs. stripped the threads in the aluminum. Found a suitable repair called timesert www.cyclemadness.com/cmforum/index.php?topic=76.0

Anyways, using my tap and die set, the cam cap bolt is perfectly between M7x1.0 and M6x1.0 any suggestions to find the appropriate size to get for the timesert set?

FTR- I'm using this route because it's the only insert I've found that's solid and not a coil and fits in the original guides.

Time Serts work very well, although I've never had any problems with helicoils either. Pull one of the other cam cap bolts and measure it would be my suggestion.

I use Heli coils. You have to buy the tap no matter which kind you use.
See Popser thread
Steve

BTW, welcome
Steve

From the parts manual the cam cap screws are thus...

P/N 92001-1105 BOLT,FLANGED,6X38

BAM! Christmas Eve and we're off to a solid start. I guess it's personal comfort in design with the time sert set.

I'm as ignorant as can be when it comes to threads and pitch. The information is awesome, and my googling has helped a bit. But can y'all elaborate a little?

Edit/addition: is there any way the bolts need replacing? I just measured the "outer most" diameter of the threads and came to 5.88mm. Worn out/ digital caliper error? Also could this lead to why the bolt patter reads a X1.0 on the die gauge but doesn't fit easily in the M6 and is too small for the M7?

Nessism wrote: From the parts manual the cam cap screws are thus...

P/N 92001-1105 BOLT,FLANGED,6X38

Slightly longer than stock bolts make it less likely to strip the threads out of the head.

Don't tighten a 6mm bolt into aluminum to 104 in/lb is the advice I can give. Did that, done that, strip every time. Stay the normal 72 in/lb or so for a 6mm bolt. Never tried the timeserts, but done a lot of Helicoils and they work fine every time for me.

I e heard and read anything from 65-145in lbs. the 145 was the original manufacture torque. Are they not like engine head bolts? Where it's important to reach the full ft/lbs? IE: if I hit somewhere comfortable between 65-100inlbs I'm not gonna worry about bolts backing out?

Don't torque them.
Just nip them up by hand with a 10mm spanner and a smear of non permanent Loctite on the threads.

Kz_Café wrote: I e heard and read anything from 65-145in lbs. the 145 was the original manufacture torque. Are they not like engine head bolts? Where it's important to reach the full ft/lbs? IE: if I hit somewhere comfortable between 65-100inlbs I'm not gonna worry about bolts backing out?

The factory Kawasaki service manual clearly states 105 in-lbs. Not sure where you heard 145 but you might want to reconsider your sources for such critical information. Kawasaki published manuals to guide us and we would be smart to follow their lead.

Now the question of whether we need to go all the way to 105 is another matter. If the bike has been heavily used and abused then I'd be a little gunshy. A lot of guys stress out the cap threads tightening down the camshafts and over time that takes it's toll. If one uses vice grips to clamp the cam down into the head before tightening the screws then thread damage can be minimized greatly.

Kz_Café wrote: I heard and read anything from 65-145in lbs. the 145 was the original manufacture torque. ...

You heard wrong for sure. You need to look at the specs in a Kawasaki Service Manual. For the KZ650 the torque spec is 95 - 113 IN. LBS. If you use a quality torque wrench calibrated in inch pounds and make sure the threads are clean and dry you should not have a problem if you stay near the low end of that spec. Of course, all bets are off if someone else has already messed up the threads in the cylinder head. Ed