Operating temp?

Just installed a temp gauge. It replaces one of the crush washers on the spark plug. Got some pretty high reAding. I know 270 is ok but I was at 350 and 410 in traffic! I'd assume that my engine runs a little hotter but that seems pretty high.

My gpz550 d1 used to run hot, you cold feel it in traffic. That had an oil cooler as standard, I have uprated them on later designs but I think air-cooled has it's disadvantages in traffic on hot days.

I think the heat isn't so much of a problem for the engine - I met a few air cooled suzuki and kawi kz riders riders in southern Africa a few years ago and they seem to tolerate the heat better than a lot of uk import RHD cars do. I do think heat reduces oil service life.

Take a look at OMR's readings.....

www.kzrider.com/forum/2-engine/371259-engine-temperature#371304

Good link but just says that his was 320 at the spark plug and then a bunch of talk about oil coolers. My question is, is this something I should fix? I'm running rich as is and I could get a bigger oil cooler or decrease my spark plug type. I already change oil at 1500 miles and filter at 3000. Should I go synthetic? (Real synthetic lol)

Hell i dont want to know what temp mine is
I change oil and filter about same as you
reckon you should do your filter every time as well - cheap insurance
Are you a hard rider ? What Oil type are you using ?

DobbinsCMA wrote: Just installed a temp gauge. It replaces one of the crush washers on the spark plug. Got some pretty high reAding. I know 270 is ok but I was at 350 and 410 in traffic! I'd assume that my engine runs a little hotter but that seems pretty high.

I think going to one plug colder will lower the temps. If they don't foul, you could try a colder plug.

I think true syn oil is cheap insurance if your engine runs hot.

Ya I use dyno Valvoline 20-50. Idk someone told me that the filter every 2000 wasn't needed. I haven't researched Synth oil. I don't know what to use really. I just adjusted my air screws so maybe I went too lean (I doubt it as I did less then 1/16 of a turn) but I'll order colder sparky plugs. I mean going 65 ( I think, I don't have a tach or speedometer) I was at 325. What temp does oil significantly breakdown?

Up till last month I never had a Temp. gauge. Now I'm reading this to see what's normal.
Steve

here's quote about spark plug heat ranges from Gordon Jennings"Plugs with a long insulator nose, which leads heat high into the plug body before it turns back toward the cooler cylinder head, are "hot." Short-nosed plugs, with a shorter heat path, are "cold." And these terms are very misleading, as in all cases the object is to match the thermal characteristics of plug and engine so the electrode temperature will stay between 700 F. and 1000 F. We must emphasize that it is the engine that puts heat into the plug, and not the reverse. A "hot" plug does not make an engine run hotter; neither does a "cold" plug make it run cooler."so heat range has nothing to do with how hot or cold your motor is running --fact read my post on resistor plugs in Electrical and you will see why some members here are confused about heat ranges.

what do you pay for a filter - $10 - your money, but i would change filter with every oil change - you want to get all the old crap out of there. Get some decent bike oil too. Some will most probably think this aint good enough but i have been using Shell AX5 15 W - 50 (API,SL,JASO MA) - used to be SX4 for about 25 years - never a problem
Dont get something like that from a bike shop though - $60 there
I got mine from a rural supplies - 4 for $110

DobbinsCMA wrote: Ya I use dyno Valvoline 20-50. Idk someone told me that the filter every 2000 wasn't needed. I haven't researched Synth oil. I don't know what to use really. I just adjusted my air screws so maybe I went too lean (I doubt it as I did less then 1/16 of a turn) but I'll order colder sparky plugs. I mean going 65 ( I think, I don't have a tach or speedometer) I was at 325. What temp does oil significantly breakdown?

Plugs have nothing to do with the engine temperature. Once you repair your bike to install the proper gauges, you will be able to report the proper temps vs. rpms.

I would remove the gauge and don't worry about it after all it's been running for what 30 years now. I had a 1982 Honda XR500R. I rode the snot out of it for years. One year I decided to put on a Vapor gauge which included a cylinder head temp. I Installed it and wow head temps were higher than the gauge would read like 420 f. I removed the gauge and continued to ride the bike for numerous years without issues. These were designed to deal with these temps. Now unless yours is running super lean I would not worry about it.