Startup After Top-End Rebuild.

:lol:

Nessism wrote:

missionkz wrote: The only thing that bugs me about that article is that most of it is written with respect to off road bikes, trikes, quads and snowmobiles.
I don't know if any of that makes any difference but I do agree with your other assertion that the 0-500, 500 to 1000 miles, factory break in... is also based on breaking in yourself on a new machine.

I put my money on a far more aggressive break-in. That's what the aircraft engine guys do and they don't mess around.

I'm not arguing it, I'm discussing it.
Although they do a preliminary break in with a fat club prop, aircraft piston engines very seldom exceed 3000 rpm.

www.dansmc.com/engine_breakin.htm

Wonder how many guys would get killed if Kawasaki told KZ1000 owners to use 3/4 throttle and 3/4 rpm after the second real ride and full throttle on the 3rd?

Good point, also surely the break in procedure for a brand new complete motor direct from the factory doesn't quite compare with a rebuilt high miler with maybe just new rings and a hone ?

Seems like the racers want full power but aren't too bothered about life expectancy, the manufacturers want long service life with the minimum of warranty returns. Also I guess they know many new owners might not follow the 4k / 6k rulke too closely...

I know a muppet that bought a brand new kawasaki liquid cooled 2 stroke in the early 90's and thrashed it from new, it needed pistons and other work within a few hundred miles.

There are lots of "opinions" as to how a motor should be broken in. Being this site is for vintage Z1/KZ's breaking in a fresh top end is a majority of the issues. That in mind, using the power on acceleration and braking is the general consensus, Changing the oil at 500 miles, not using synthetic oil on break in and keeping it about mid RPM's for the first 1000 miles. IMO
Steve

Tyrell Corp wrote: Wonder how many guys would get killed if Kawasaki told KZ1000 owners to use 3/4 throttle and 3/4 rpm after the second real ride and full throttle on the 3rd?

Good point, also surely the break in procedure for a brand new complete motor direct from the factory doesn't quite compare with a rebuilt high miler with maybe just new rings and a hone ?

Seems like the racers want full power but aren't too bothered about life expectancy, the manufacturers want long service life with the minimum of warranty returns. Also I guess they know many new owners might not follow the 4k / 6k rulke too closely...

I know a muppet that bought a brand new kawasaki liquid cooled 2 stroke in the early 90's and thrashed it from new, it needed pistons and other work within a few hundred miles.

This is akin to discussing how long to keep an oreo submerged in milk before its precisely ready to shove in your mouth... but then again...some aren't dunkers

Some don't like Oreo's at all. :woohoo:
Steve

Damn sugar diabetes stopped my dunkin .......... for sure in my top 5 list of things I miss....... and like if it really matters I followed the semi hard break in with a slow 1/2 mile after to cool it down after a couple pulls from 3,500 to not over 6,500 for the first 500 miles.

So how'd it work out for you. I soon will be doing it again. I want them to seat, not weep puss every time I grab a hand full. I'd like to hear others results also.
Steve

Hey Swest it seems good ....... running great wanted to build a little oil pressure before I started it so I pulled all the plugs and checked comp with it cold un started and got 145 across all 4 cyl .. then 165 on all 4 after 600 miles ...... (I went against the grain here and oiled up the rings, cyl and pistons with a good 10 drops each while putting it together) have just under 1,000 now and probably will check again soon..... motor is out and am done with the starter clutch so will get it back in and going soon. Happy with them being so even (good job APE).

Did the cool down and re torgue after the first 50 mile ride and again at 500. It started right away and fast idled it at 2,000 - 2,300 for a couple - 3 mins with 2 fans ........ shut it down looked it over then went for the first ride right away ........Did maybe 3 0r 4 pulls with cool downs (3rd and 4th gear) with each 30 to 50 mile ride......Changed oil and filter at 100, 300 and again at 600. Good luck with yours!

I have a mix I use to assemble with. No problem oiling the rings and cylinders. Stupid if you don't.
Steve

Well I did mine just like I said and it's just fine.
I've got about 35 pass on it and it's on it's fifth oil change.
but I change it every time I go to the track.