Static Timing KZ1000A ?

When setting the points gap, turn the 17mm clockwise until one side is at its largest opening. This will happen during almost a full 1/4". Turn the 17mm and set the other side the same way.

Setting the points gap is NOT based on the visible position of the F marks

The F marks are used to set timing - ONLY.

Someone please correct me if I am wrong, but I believe he is trying to set the gap and the timing together at the F marks?
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Please also post a picture of your wife.

Also your timing might be advanced or delayed too much so that you can't get the timing to set up with the F marks.

If this is the case you need to loosen the 3 larger screws and rotate the timing plate. I would place it somewhere in the middle as a starting point. Sometimes the points plates (2 screws) can't be moved enough to set the timing because the timing plate is set too far right or left and the points plate hits one of the bottom 2 of the 3 screws.

The normal "resting" position is closed -- being held closed by spring pressure.

And, Yes, LineArtist is correct.
Setting the gap has nothing to do with the F mark.
Ignore the F mark when setting the gap.
The gap is set with the heel on top of the highest part of the cam lobe.

Good Fortune!

Point Springs intake. Can manually open them then release them with spring tension back to close.

My measurements measure at least those you provided and then some.

To my knowledge bike hasn't ran in over 20 years. I'm about 100 % sure that the Advancer is original. Matches pictures in FSM. Now I can try putting these older points back in that came with the bike when purchased and see what happens?

LineArtist, When I set my Point gap visually , I Did Not use the F marks to adjust them to the widest gap. Once set then I move on to the Static Timing Procedures in the FSM. Tried moving Timing Plate of the points I'm working on fully one direction or the other. Points still didn't break ( loose continuity or light off ) at the F mark as stated earlier. I do not rotate the motor when trying to make these adjustments. I park the motor on the F Mark and pointer and try to move either the timing plate or back plate to see if I can get the Test Light to go off. When I'm done attempting to make any of these adjustments, I tighten down all the screws. Motor is still on the F mark and the Light is on. I begin rotating cam nut ( clockwise ) past the F mark in either the # 2 mark or the #1 mark depending on which point your adjusting then the light goes out about halfway before it gets to the next mark.

I tried several times loosening the Back Plate going on direction or the other, made No Difference at the F mark?

Patton suggests using the original points, at least the ones that were on the bike when purchased. Cleaned them up, besides having a little more discoloration and wear on the bottom of the cam heel, I can use them? I can't see where that would make any difference?

Spring tension on either sets of points keeps the points contacts closed when releasing the heel.

Is it for certain that the points cam isn't installed 180° out?

Good Fortune!

The Picture that Ed supplied earlier is EXACTLY in alignment as it with the mark and hole. There Advancer itself can only be installed one way with the groove on the back of the advancer and the crank end notch.

The heel of the left-side points should be on the cam lobe when the 1-4 F mark aligns with the case mark.

The heel of the right-side points should be on the cam lobe when the 2-3 F mark aligns with the case mark.

If the above isn't observed, the cam may be installed 180° out whereby the lobe is always on the wrong side.

Good Fortune!

Patton, I rechecked the Points Gap again. Thought they were a little loose so re-adjusted to .014" with a slight drag ( .012" loose ). After point gap adjustment I aligned the F marks after starting with 1&4. Touched spring clip with my Test Light, light seemed to flicker? So I loosened the top screw of the timing plate, light went off. I kept down ward pressure against the top of the timing plate and retightened screws. That's as far as the timing plate will move in that direction. Light stayed off. Turned motor clockwise back to f 1&4 marks, now just barely past the F mark ( I mean barely ) the Light stays off. Damn Close!

Rechecked F marks 2&3. Test Light on. Loosened the timing screws on the plate and moved plate up as far as it would go, light went out. Re-tightened screws. Rotated the engine again clockwise to the F 2&3 marks. Light will stay off just past the F mark like above and I mean barely past the F mark.

I know it's not Perfect, but Damn Close considering possible condition of points and advancer. Moving the Black Plate to me didn't seem to do anything? And considering all the Grief this Post has given to Everyone involved, I probably should quit while I'm ahead.

I'll probably should invest in a Cheap analog Meter like Ed suggested but I think the Light gave me somewhat accurate results.

I still don't know why it seems to be working now, but so much closer than I was working with earlier?

An Abundance of THANK YOU'S to Everyone who offered there expertise! Believe me I wanted to give up a long time ago, and I'm still not sure if it's right or not. But again we persevered and for myself gained a lot of knowledge. Thanks to all of you again !!!

One item that doesn't seem to be getting clearly conveyed is, moving the back plate only gives you a new frame of reference, ie starting point, from which to re-adjust the points mounting plates, so that both 1&4 and 2&3 break continuity when on the F mark

Sounds like your close enough to get it started and proceed on to timing it when a timing light....