Static Timing KZ1000A ?

Installed a set of new points in my Non-Running 77' KZ1000A and set them manually between .012 and .016". That went very smoothly. Then I attempted to set the timing statically per FSM. With my Digital Voltmeter setting in the resistance setting, I couldn't get a break in continuity by loosening the 2 mounting screws for the point set I was working on? Didn't matter what direction I moved the point plate, the voltmeter never changed or went open? Am I missing something?

Two suggestions:

At the coils, temporarily disconnect the wires that come from the points while setting the timing using the meter to detect a break in continuity.

If at all possible, use a cheap analog meter to detect the break in continuity when setting the timing. The reason is that most (if not all) good digital meters have a delay between the time continuity breaks and the chime sounds or the meter shows the break. The needle in an analog meter will react the instant continuity breaks, and this is important when setting the timing. Ed

I'll do that Ed, This meter is just a cheap form Harbor Freight. I don't they have an Analog meter? I was thinking of purchasing a Analog Dwell meter from Sears, but don't if they measure continuity or not?

I think after I posted this question, I read one of your Posts mentioning about loosening the 3 mounting screws for the whole plate rather than the 2 screw for the individual points plate? Does that provide a better way to measure the break in continuity?

The 2-wire Black/Green lead or wire coming from the points to the coils wasn't connected. Is that what you were making reference to?

No eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configurationSorry, I should have been more clear. I meant an analog multi-meter. Even a super cheapie like the one below should work for detecting a break in continuity. Normally a dwell meter won't test resistance (which is necessary for testing continuity). However, a dwell meter is excellent for fine tuning the ignition points gap. A timing light should be used to fine tune the ignition timing.

Ed, I may just go ahead and purchase that one, cheap enough.

And what about the 2 -wire points harness coming from the points to the coils? Leave that disconnected? I had it disconnected, but maybe I was doing something wrong? Probably the Digital meter I was using or maybe try loosening the 3 screws for the points/condenser plate and moving that one direction or the other?

I don't know if you have seen this before, but here's the writeup I did for static timing for the KZ650. Your bike's specs may be different, but hopefully the writeup will provide some help:

The manual has several pages of instructions, pictures, etc. on how to set the timing using the static method plus timing light, plus dwell meter. I can give you a fairly easy way that will get you in a pretty close ballpark without a timing light or dwell meter, but you will need a 0.35 mm feeler gauge and a multi-meter or other device to test continuity. To be very precise, the timing light and dwell meter will be needed.

Before attempting to replace or adjust the points the following is important to understand; timing is comprised of two separate components, and BOTH of these components MUST be set properly if the engine is to run well:

--- The GAP – this is the distance the points spread apart when fully open. The GAP is the element that determines the DWELL. In essence, the DWELL is the number of degrees of points cam rotation that the points are closed and this controls the amount of time the coils receive a charge before firing the spark plugs.

--- The TIMING of the initial opening of the points (the point at which the continuity across the points breaks). This controls the precise instant that the coils receive the signal to fire the spark plugs.

Remove the points cover on the right side of engine. Under it you will see 2 sets of points. The set on the left fires cylinders 1 & 4; the set on the right fires 2 & 3. When replacing points observe carefully how the little bits and pieces are arranged where the wires attach. Some of those pieces are actually insulators and if you leave any of them out or put them back in the wrong place the points will be grounded and won't work. Take a very close look at the contact surfaces of the points. If they are pitted you really should replace them. You can sand down pitted points, but they will quickly pit again. Replace one set of points at a time so you can look at the other set in case you get the little bits confused.

When adjusting the points, use a 17 mm wrench to turn the nut NEAR the end of the crankshaft clockwise while looking in the hole above that nut. (Do NOT use a wrench on the smaller bolt on the very end of the crankshaft to turn the engine.) Inside that hole you will see a vertical pointer cast into the casing. As you turn the 17 mm nut you will see a 1 & 4 and F and T roll by and then you'll see a 2 & 3 and F and T roll by. Each F and T has a line next to it.

Here's the method I use for static timing. I turn OFF the ignition. I disconnect the green wire near one coil and the black wire near the other coil. (This is not in the book, but it makes checking continuity much easier for me.) After installing the new points or cleaning up the old ones, turn the 17 mm nut while watching the points. When points set 1&4 are at their widest gap adjust them (by loosening the 2 screws that hold the points to the backplate) so the gap equals 0.35 mm. Turn the 17 mm nut clockwise through a full revolution again and double check this gap. Then repeat this for points set 3&4. Now set your meter to test continuity and clip one wire to the leaf spring on points set 1&4 and clip the other wire to ground. Turn the 17 mm nut clockwise until the 1&4 "F" mark aligns with the pointer mentioned above. You want the continuity across point set 1&4 to just break when the F mark aligns with the pointer. The idea is that when the continuity just fails is when the points will fire their respective coil and cylinders. In order to adjust the point at which continuity fails you loosen the 3 screws that hold the backplate to the engine and slightly turn the backplate until the meter shows a break in continuity. Once you have the 1&4 set timed properly you can check the 2&3 set to make sure they break when the 2&3 F mark aligns with the pointer (they should or something is not right). Don't forget to plug in the green and black coil wires when you are done, and put a little grease on the rubbing block felt. Assuming you are using new points of the correct type this should enable you to get the timing very close. Trying this with old points may give poor results, especially if the points are pitted and/or the rubbing blocks are worn.

After you have set the gap (which in effect sets the dwell) and the timing using the method above you can use a dwell meter and timing light to fine tune dwell and timing. If you have followed the above procedure carefully, very little if any fine tuning will be needed.
Sorry this is so long. It's not as difficult as it sounds. Ed

Ed, Hadn't seen this post. Very informative and like the procedure. The FSM doesn't make mention of disconnecting the coil leads and says to loosen the 2 mounting screws, but I like the idea of loosening the 3 mounting plate screws instead. Now just have to get a meter.

Looked at the Radio Shack meter on ebay. Looks real cheap. Maybe I'm putting more emphasis on which meter to purchase but thought maybe better adjustability would be better? Looking at the Dawson 120 series but a lot more money. What do you have?

You can set the points with a test light, easier than trying to read a meter. Unplug the points leads clip one end of your light to them, clip the other side to the positive battery terminal

Adjust so the light comes on when the F mark lines up

For setting the ignition timing (static setting) I use a very inexpensive analog multimeter (see 1st image below). It works great because the needle reacts the instant continuity is made or broken.

For all other electrical tests I use a digital multimeter (see 2nd image below). I bought it at Radio Shack years ago, so I doubt that the same model is currently available. The digital multimeter is great, but it does not work for setting points. It has a built in delay before giving a reading or audible alarm while it tests the circuit, that's why I use the analog one for setting points.

For setting the ignition timing you don't need to actually measure resistance, you simply need to see exactly when continuity breaks. Because of this a test light can also work fine as floivanus pointed out. If you do buy a test light see if you can find one that uses an LED light rather than in incandescent bulb. The LED lights up or goes dark instantly whereas the incandescent bulb takes a little time (not much, but some) to heat up when coming on or cool off when going dark. Ed

Ed, I like to try the test light procedure that Floivanis suggested. I borrowed a LED test lamp from a friend. I don't have a battery for this KZ I'm working on, but I could remove my battery from my Yamaha RD to use. It only has 5 amps. So I would imagine, hook up the battery cables ( both pos. and neg. ) to the battery and clip the test lead of the light to the Ground post? Then with the test light pointer, touch the points lead clip that has been detached and rotate the points plate ( loosen the 3 screws ) either clockwise or counterclockwise? Watch for the light of the test to come on? But you do start with the F mark lined up first before you start this procedure?

Yes, you can use jumpers from the other bike battery to the KZ battery to supply power for setting the points.
AFTER setting the points gap -
Clip one test light wire to the leaf spring on points set 1&4 and clip the other wire to ground. Turn the 17 mm nut clockwise until the 1&4 "F" mark aligns with the pointer mentioned above. You want the continuity across point set 1&4 to just break when the F mark aligns with the pointer. The idea is that when the continuity just fails is when the points will fire their respective coil and cylinders. In order to adjust the point at which continuity fails you loosen the 3 screws that hold the backplate to the engine and slightly turn the backplate until the meter shows a break in continuity. Ed

As noted, would set the GAP first.

Before moving the back-plate, would attempt to set the timing with the screws shown in the above picture.
If the timing screws don't provide sufficient movement, then rotate the back-plate.

Finalize fine tuning the timing by using the timing screws to perfectly match alignment of the F mark just as the points contacts start to open.

Good Fortune!