Static Timing KZ1000A ?

Here's how it's supposed to work.

The coil charges while the points are closed (i.e., while the primary winding is grounded).

Opening of the points is the event that causes the coil to fire (i.e., the primary winding becomes ungrounded).

If closed contacts fail for whatever reason to allow current to pass from one to the other (eg., dirt, oil, etc.), the primary winding doesn't reach ground, which prevents the coil from charging.

Or -- just as bad -- if the primary winding for whatever reason continuously reaches ground despite open contacts (eg., faulty connection, bad insulator washer, etc.), the primary winding doesn't get ungrounded, which prevents the charged coil from firing.

Good Fortune!

Patton, I appreciate you sharing that with me. But the questions I have are:

1. Do the points, both sides, Rubbing Blocks always make contact with the Cam Lobe of the Advancer no matter where the advancer is ? Because if that's the case mine are worn?

2. Is my Advancer worn as described? And do I need to replace that?

3. Anyone have the measure of the Rubbing Blocks?

There are 2 "F" marks on the advancer (see image below). When you are trying to time points for cylinders 2&3 are you sure you have the crankshaft turned so that the "F" mark for 2&3 (rather than 1&4) are aligned with the pointer? Ed

ED, I wish that was the case. Points on the Right for Cylinders 2 & 3. F Mark and Pointer Lined up Correctly. I'll Triple Check my Alignment Right now.

My head is spinning. Set the point gap on both sides. Disconnected the coil wires that 650ed mentioned. Take one end of any meter or light bulb hooked up the a 9 volt battery and clip it to one of the points springs. The other end to the engine or frame (as ground). Rotate the 17mm cam nut, clockwise only. Continuity WILL break around the "F" marks, Loosen the 2 screws by the corresponding points plate and adjust until continuity breaks exactly at the "F" marks. Repeat for the other side and do it all again until it is PERFECT.

No fancy meters and strobe lights are necessary, just follow the instructions in the owners manual or better yet read and understand what 650ed has written... it's the bible on getting it correct early time.

... just my 79 cents

Is has to be the Rubbing Blocks. As I rotate the 17mm cam nut Clockwise, the Test Light stays on ( The power cord of the test light is hooked up to the + pos Red terminal of the Battery ). I observe the Marks for Left Side Points in the view window. #4 has continuity ( light on ) continue to rotate cam nut clockwise F mark has continuity ( light on ). Continue past F mark ( about a third the distance between F and #1 ) light goes out. Okay that's fine and dandy, so I rotate engine clockwise until I get back to the F mark of 1 & 4. Park F mark right on the pointer exactly.

Here's were I been saying all along. Not matter loosening the 2 Timing screws or 3 Plate screws and moving either plate , The Points Will Not Open ! In the F Mark adjusting position, the Rubbing Blocks never make contact with the Cam therefore nothing to open up the points.

And like I been saying, the Rubbing Blocks or Advancer Cam but be worn since Ed says that these bubbling blocks always stay in contact with the Cam no matter what position the cam is in.

Can some one measure the rubbing block height?

You think your Guys Heads are spinning, so is mine !

More confusion on my part. Help me to understand how you were able to set the gap on the set of points for cylinders 2&3 if that set of points never opens. Ed

Never said I was unable to set the Point Gap Adjustment on either Point. It's the Static Timing Test outlined in the FSM and as instructed by Many Forum members. Ed, The Gap setting has been set for both set of points. I'm talking about Statically setting the Timing by moving the adjustment timing plate or back mounting plate which is not opening the points while on the F mark. I can't be any more accurate that what is exactly happening.

Ok. You were able to set the gaps for both sets of points. In order to do that, the set of points for 2&3 had to open up somewhere along the line when you rotated the crankshaft and situated the 2&3 rubbing block on the highest part of the cam. Is it possible to take a close-up picture of the advancer & points when the 2&3 points are fully open? Ed

I'll try to see if my wife can take a close up picture.

I still think that my points ( rubbing blocks ) are worn down just enough to prevent you from achieving the Static Timing Procedure.

Anyone have are set of new points they could measure?

Ed, why are you asking for Points 2&3? It happens with both set of points!

kzdcw wrote: . . .
1. Do the points, both sides, Rubbing Blocks always make contact with the Cam Lobe of the Advancer no matter where the advancer is ? Because if that's the case mine are worn?

2. Is my Advancer worn as described? And do I need to replace that?

3. Anyone have the measure of the Rubbing Blocks?

1. Do the points, both sides, Rubbing Blocks always make contact with the Cam Lobe of the Advancer no matter where the advancer is ? YES.

Because if that's the case mine are worn? A LIKELY POSSIBILITY.

2. Is my Advancer worn as described? And do I need to replace that? UNLIKELY.

3. Anyone have the measure of the Rubbing Blocks? SEE PIC BELOW.



Here's a post I wrote some time ago that might be helpful:

Each points set is held by two screws to a back plate. Each back plate is held by two screws (through slotted holes) to the round mounting plate. The round mounting plate is held by three screws (through slotted holes) to the engine case. A cam fits through the advancer. The heels of the points ride the cam to open and close. A little oil soaked felt pad lubes the cam so the heels don't wear out so fast.

1st -- Adjust gaps -- Do this separately for each points set. Dress point contacts if needed to minimize pitting by using a point file or fine sandpaper pulled through between the contacts. Clean the contacts. Turn crankshaft clockwise using 17 mm wrench to widest points opening and adjust gap separately for each set of points at FSM spec (eg., KZ900 is 0.3-0.4mm or .012-.016 inch). Each points set has two base screws to very slightly loosen thereby allowing movement to open or close gap, then retighten after setting gap. The widest gap happens when the heel is resting on the highest part of the cam. At this stage nothing but the gap has been adjusted. But this is important because proper gap affects the subsequent timing procedure. And other screws have remained tight.

2nd -- Set Timing -- Each points set has two mounting screws and pry slots which can be used with strobe light (after slightly loosening the two mounting screws) to align the respective F marks with the timing mark. But if the adjusting plate doesn't travel far enough to allow correct adjustment, then loosen the three mounting plate screws and move the mounting plate. Usually, the round back plate affixed with screws at center of slots is a decent starting position, and often doesn't need to be relocated from that position.

3rd -- Tighten and recheck --Tighten all screws and recheck timing with strobe light.

Also, check to assure proper operation of the advancer unit. If removed for cleaning and lubing, be sure the cam unit is replaced correctly and not 180 degrees off.

Also good to have a fan blowing onto the cylinders while setting the timing. Dynamic timing is done while the engine is running. I prefer using a strobe-type timing light (Z1E has a good one) which also allows seeing the advancer unit move forward and backward when changing rpm. Static timing with engine off, using a light bulb or ohmmeter, isn't as accurate as dynamic timing with a strobe light, but may suffice to at least get the engine running so it may then be timed dynamically.

Good Luck!

Here's a link to the mentioned post:
kzrider.com/forum/4-electrical/218793-ca...s-gap-and-set-timing

Good Fortune!

kzdcw wrote: I'll try to see if my wife can take a close up picture.

I still think that my points ( rubbing blocks ) are worn down just enough to prevent you from achieving the Static Timing Procedure.

Anyone have are set of new points they could measure?

Ed, why are you asking for Points 2&3? It happens with both set of points!

My mistake - I misunderstood when you stated "When attempting to Static Time cylinders 2 & 3 with the F Mark lined up with the pointer the rubbing block for the RIGHT points ( which is for 2 & 3 ) definitely Does Not make contact with the Cam lobe not matter which way you move the Timing plate or Back plate. Ironically the rubbing on the Left points ( 1 & 4 ) is making contact with the Cam Lobe but I'm sure that's the High spot on the Advancer cam." I thought maybe the 1&4 points were opening at the "F" mark.

Given the fact that the static timing is not working for either set of points please post closeup photos that show the 2&3 points open at their widest setting and also the same for the 1&4 points. Maybe the pictures will reveal something unusual. Ed