Static Timing KZ1000A ?

The test light that I have only has 1 clip wire. I'm assuming that that clip end goes to Ground on the Battery. The Pointer end of the probe goes to or touches the points?


Now when doing this, are the Green and Black Clips ( leads that go to the coils ) disconnected or left connected to the Points? Ed, you say to clip to the Leaf Spring ? I'm not sure I'm following this ?

I understand turning the 17mm nut Clockwise until the 1 & 4 F Mark lines up with Pointer. Will the Test Light come on or go off ?

Assuming the test light has its own power source (like a small battery) for the LED try the following. If it doesn't have its own power source, you'll need to find its instructions. This is why I use a simple analog multimeter, using that makes it easy-peasy.

1. Unplug the coil wires.
2. Attach the alligator clip to the engine case (ground).
3. Hold the point against the leaf spring on one set of points.

If the points are closed the light should come on. Put the "F" mark at the timing pointer on the engine. As you turn the backplate at some point the light will go off. This indicates the instant that the points opened and broke continuity across the test light. When you find the exact point at which the light goes off tighten the backplate and run the same test against the other set of points. If the other set of points don't break continuity at the "F" mark you may need to adjust the individual adjuster shown by Patton. Don't forget to reconnect the coil wires when done. Ed

kzdcw
The light should go out, you want it right on the edge of being on/ going out. Points are beginning to open, so no continuity.
Patton instructions are much closer to the correct way than Ed's write up??? Don't know if 1977's had a different points set-up or what, but the picture provided by Patton is exactly what is under the cover of my 1978 KZ
And to adjust the timing you move the points mt'g plate's(loosen the 2 screws labeled timing in Patton's picture) position on the back plate(the one with 3 screws). You must do this for both sets of points.Using the 1 and 4 F mark and 2 and 3 F mark. If you only move the back plate to adjust 1 set of points you are moving the other set out of position.

You don't have to connect to the battery, just a ground, such as the frame tube or the block/head... the other end needs to touch the points,the leaf spring(the piece of spring steel that starts at the wire connection point) makes a good location to clip on to.. Stick the pointer end against/into the block/head or the frame tube,anything that gives you a ground.

I have never disconnected ANY wires when setting the timing, unclear why Ed recommends such. When the bike is running, which is when you want the correct timing, are any wires disconnected??

This procedure is spelled out fairly clearly in any type of manual for a particular bike that I have ever used. If you don't have some type of manual I would highly recommend getting ahold of one... :ohmy:

No, when the bike is running of course the coil wires must be hooked up - otherwise it wouldn't run. I disconnect them when doing static timing only, otherwise continuity may not break. Trust me, this happens sometimes and not only on my bike. If you never had this happen I understand why it sounds odd. Another approach to prevent the problem is to put a piece of cardboard between the set of points not being adjusted. I find disconnecting the wires easier.

Regarding moving the backplate. Some bikes do NOT have the individual adjusters for each set of points other than the dwell adjustment (see image below), so the backplate is the only timing adjustment that can be made. Even those that have the individual adjusters can be adjusted the same way once the individual adjusters are set so they both are timed correctly. Ed

KZRider's FILEBASE doesn't yet include a FSM for the KZ1000, but the FILEBASE does include the FSM for the KZ900.

I believe the KZ1000 timing procedure is same as shown in the FSM for KZ900.

Here's a link to download the FSM for KZ900:
Click here > www.kzrider.com/filebase/search/finish/1...asaki-service-manual .

The section on ignition timing starts on page 14.

Good Fortune!

Besides an inexpensive Analog multimeter, What type of LED Test Light would you guys recommend to have? If the test light does not have an internal power source, then I'm assuming you have to use the Battery's Ground instead of just the frame or engine?

The analog multimeter may already include an ohmmeter function.
Look for the Ω symbol. "Ω " is the symbol that stands for ohms.

After setting the gap on both sets of points by using a thickness (feeler) gauge, could then use an ohmmeter (instead of a test light) to see when the contacts open (which breaks continuity between them) as the F mark aligns with the case mark (static timing is with engine not running). Remember to set both the 1-4 F mark and the 2-3 F mark. This should result in very close to correct timing.

When the contacts are touching each other, the ohmmeter needle should swing all the way over showing continuity (connection) between the contacts.

When the contacts separate so they aren't touching each other, the ohmmeter needle should not move from its beginning position or should return to its beginning position, showing no continuity (no connection) between the contacts.

Next is dynamic timing,which is done with a timing light while the engine is running. Inexpensive strobe-type timing lights are readily available.

Good Fortune!

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For the life on Me, I Can Not seem to be able to do the Static Timing adjustment either thru the FSM or from the procedures of all the Forum Tech's ???

First I tried the Digital Multimeter I have. A Harbor freight special but always has worked in the Past. Set the meter on Ohms, doesn't matter what scale I use. One side of the Meter to Chassis Ground, the other side to the Points spring being tested either 2/3 Right Side or 1/4 Left Side. F mark lined up with the Pointer. It doesn't matter either loosening the 2 timing screws and moving the plate one direction or the other, the meter doesn't register an open. Loosening the 3 screws for the back plate and rotating it either clockwise or counterclockwise, doesn't change anything either.

Moving on the the Test Light I have, internal bulb. The LED Test Light I had borrowed didn't work at
all. The test light I have requires that you run from the battery + terminal to light up. Clipped the only one lead it has to the + Batt. post ( Battery fully charged ) and the pointer end to the Spring of the Points. Again nothing changed by loosening the 2 screws for the timing plate or 3 screws for the back plate and moving them in either direction. The LIght never went off.

I don't understand this, the F marks are lined up correctly. But by just looking at the points and how the rubbing block of them is close to the timing advancer but not contacting it, I can't see how the points would open by moving either the timing plate or back plate? Apparently they don't. But I'm sure not getting anything with my Meter or Light?

Unplugging the Black/Green 2 -wire harness from the points to the coils made no difference at all?

Yeah, I might be using inferior tools both bought at Harbor freight, but should at least give me something? About ready to give up and respect all of the advice that has been given, but I don't know what else to do?

The heel of the points rides on a cam. If the heel is worn down, the points might not be opening.



There should be a 17 mm "fake" nut that can be hand-turned to rotate the crankshaft.
Don't use the smaller bolt head to rotate the crankshaft.
Use only the 17 mm nut.

When hand-rotating the crankshaft, should be able to see when the heel rides up on the cam and also see the points open (watch the contacts separate.)

Are the points opening?

As the crankshaft is rotated further, do the points close as the heel rides off the cam?

Good Fortune!

Patton, The Points are opening and closing when I turn the 17mm nut. I performed the Points Gap adjustment prior to starting the Static Timing adjustment procedure.

If I understand what you're saying the meter shows continuity even when the points are open and with the green and black wires unplugged at the coils.

If that is the case, it is possible that the connectors at the points are touching the backplate OR the wires are not connected correctly at the points, OR the little insulators on the points are not installed correctly.

Can you provide some clear, close-up photos showing where the wires are connected to the points? Ed

Ed, The Meter does Not show continuity when the points are open and the Test Light goes Off when the points are opened as well. Just went to garage and made sure of the results ?