Cylinder head removal and valve question

When you get the valve id have it just "touched up" to make its straight and has consistant angle ground in it,then try lapping it into existing seat and see what kind of pattern you get.

LarryC wrote: Whatever you do...DO NOT use a drill to lap the valves. I saw some knuckle head video on Youtube where a guy was doing that. He used more lapping compound on a single valve than I use in a year

Ultimately, in everything you do...ask yourself one important question. Is the effort and cost going to justify the end result? Which brings to mind the next point to consider...

"Only a farmer can start with $hit and end up with something good"

yeesh that doesn't sound good. Learning is my justification, and the satisfaction of fixing something I messed up. Money wise I'm...justifying... :whistle: but ultimately I want to see this through. Also its my only ride right now lol Nice quote :laugh:

LarryC wrote: Whatever you do...DO NOT use a drill to lap the valves. I saw some knuckle head video on Youtube where a guy was doing that. He used more lapping compound on a single valve than I use in a year

Ultimately, in everything you do...ask yourself one important question. Is the effort and cost going to justify the end result? Which brings to mind the next point to consider...

"Only a farmer can start with $hit and end up with something good"

there is also the chance of messing up the guides and lifter hole. thanks for the input I wouldn't want whats his name to ruin his engine on account of me.

Spenzher wrote:

LarryC wrote: Whatever you do...DO NOT use a drill to lap the valves. I saw some knuckle head video on Youtube where a guy was doing that. He used more lapping compound on a single valve than I use in a year

Ultimately, in everything you do...ask yourself one important question. Is the effort and cost going to justify the end result? Which brings to mind the next point to consider...

"Only a farmer can start with $hit and end up with something good"

yeesh that doesn't sound good. Learning is my justification, and the satisfaction of fixing something I messed up. Money wise I'm...justifying... :whistle: but ultimately I want to see this through. Also its my only ride right now lol Nice quote :laugh:

If your seats are still good [which for your purposes they may well be] you can probably slide by lapping in some good, used valves. Post some pics of the seats.

LarryC wrote:

Spenzher wrote:

LarryC wrote: Whatever you do...DO NOT use a drill to lap the valves. I saw some knuckle head video on Youtube where a guy was doing that. He used more lapping compound on a single valve than I use in a year

Ultimately, in everything you do...ask yourself one important question. Is the effort and cost going to justify the end result? Which brings to mind the next point to consider...

"Only a farmer can start with $hit and end up with something good"

yeesh that doesn't sound good. Learning is my justification, and the satisfaction of fixing something I messed up. Money wise I'm...justifying... :whistle: but ultimately I want to see this through. Also its my only ride right now lol Nice quote :laugh:

If your seats are still good [which for your purposes they may well be] you can probably slide by lapping in some good, used valves. Post some pics of the seats.

Ouch my seats are very dirty...I tried to use some carb cleaner and didn't do much

Maybe a stiff nylon brush with some engine degreaser would soften that up.

Those are "Pits" in the valve seat. Thats just the Intake, have a look at the Exhaust, thats bound to be much worse. You need to take that head to a qualified machine shop, and be prepared to spend some money to make it right.
What is that hanging inside the spark plug hole? The installation break away tab from a Heli-coil?

I've lapped all valves on heads I work on that need it.
Using a drill. Just forward rev. Most valves take a short while to form a
perfect margin. Several turns back and forth. After taking my head to a
machine shop for cutting in the past, I cut my own seats with a homade
pilot and ruby red stones on an old soux and ko lee. The valve you do
youself lap in real quick. So you get done sooner and they all hold pressure
inside the port. I've never had any problems. Lots of compression though.
Never had a diff among cylinders.

Like said, if the seats are nicked, or guides replaced, must cut.
Valve don't need refaced often

Motor Head wrote: Those are "Pits" in the valve seat. Thats just the Intake, have a look at the Exhaust, thats bound to be much worse. You need to take that head to a qualified machine shop, and be prepared to spend some money to make it right.
What is that hanging inside the spark plug hole? The installation break away tab from a Heli-coil?

Craaaappers. Do you know of any cheap alternative? I read it wasn't too expensive to recut seals. I wouldn't know yet though. Yeah the inside has some residual silicone and the thread comes out a wee bit.

Also, and I know it's not something I should do, but could I lap the valves and get away without recutting and just sacrificing some compression? They were all within the 140's-150psi when I checked before I mucked up the valve.

Completely up to you as its your bike. If you want a Bandaid or a rebuild. If you Lap the Valves and don't get carried away and end up with to wide of seat faces, it will be better than what you have know. What do the Valves look like? The Exhaust is where the heat and Combustion crud causes more wear.
Silicone in your plug hole? Whats that there for? Silicone for the insert? Hope not, that will fail.

Nads Wrote: "Valve don't need refaced often"
They need to be refaced nearly every time, or replaced.
We just pulled an Audi A4 1.8 Turbo head w/200Kmi, In valves were like new, Ex was shot, guides and valves.

how are you supposed to get that valve back in there? under bucket shims and all.

Motor Head wrote: Completely up to you as its your bike. If you want a Bandaid or a rebuild. If you Lap the Valves and don't get carried away and end up with to wide of seat faces, it will be better than what you have know. What do the Valves look like? The Exhaust is where the heat and Combustion crud causes more wear.
Silicone in your plug hole? Whats that there for? Silicone for the insert? Hope not, that will fail.

Nads Wrote: "Valve don't need refaced often"
They need to be refaced nearly every time, or replaced.
We just pulled an Audi A4 1.8 Turbo head w/200Kmi, In valves were like new, Ex was shot, guides and valves.

I'll take a look at the exhaust when I get supplies in. And ya, its like some hi-temp copper sealant, it was said to use on the instructions for installing.