Cylinder head removal and valve question

bountyhunter wrote: ]My old 750 was fouling plugs every ten minutes before I overhauled it. Removed the plugs hot at least 100 times with no problem to put in the spare set so I could get home.....

Hmm but wouldn't the heated aluminum at least make the plug harder to get out?

I've got the manual and the procedure seems pretty straight forward. I'm going to try and make a simple tool today using a regular clamp and some wood/socket or something to get out the valve. I'm not really sure what I'm going to do about the piston yet as I don't know if taking piston rings out is easy or not. Still researching everything as I go. I may just get the cylinder head off and clean it... :whistle:

Spenzher wrote:

bountyhunter wrote: ]My old 750 was fouling plugs every ten minutes before I overhauled it. Removed the plugs hot at least 100 times with no problem to put in the spare set so I could get home.....

Hmm but wouldn't the heated aluminum at least make the plug harder to get out?....

Heated aluminum should make the plug easier to get out, as the aluminum engine head expands more with heat than does the steel spark plug.

Good Fortune!

On a related side note, a short length of rubber tubing that fits snugly onto top of a spark plug is a handy item to carry along in the bike's on-board tool kit.

Makes it easy (at roadside or anywhere else) to lift a loosened plug from it's recessed location inside the hot engine head. Without burning fingers.

And also makes it easy to get the spark plug started correctly in the threads when replacing a plug in a hot engine head. Again, without burning fingers.

Good Fortune!

3cav84a wrote: My advice is to use your digital camera and take a whole heap of pictures if this is the first time your are taking off the head and maybe the cylinder block, very useful for assembling later on.

I was thinking of doing that but there isn't too many pieces to put it all back together/I have the manual so I decided not to spend the time taking pictures.

Patton wrote: On a related side note, a short length of rubber tubing that fits snugly onto top of a spark plug is a handy item to carry along in the bike's on-board tool kit.

Makes it easy (at roadside or anywhere else) to lift a loosened plug from it's recessed location inside the hot engine head. Without burning fingers.

And also makes it easy to get the spark plug started correctly in the threads when replacing a plug in a hot engine head. Again, without burning fingers.

Good Fortune!

Cool I'll have to remember that

Spenzher wrote:

bountyhunter wrote: ]My old 750 was fouling plugs every ten minutes before I overhauled it. Removed the plugs hot at least 100 times with no problem to put in the spare set so I could get home.....

Hmm but wouldn't the heated aluminum at least make the plug harder to get out?

Never had a problem. I just carried a short clicker torque wrench set to the correct setting and replaced the plugs everytime they fouled.

Patton wrote: On a related side note, a short length of rubber tubing that fits snugly onto top of a spark plug is a handy item to carry along in the bike's on-board tool kit.

Makes it easy (at roadside or anywhere else) to lift a loosened plug from it's recessed location inside the hot engine head. Without burning fingers.

Another good reason to own a twin....... :laugh:

Welp, I definitely hit the intake valve. This may be a dumb question, but is it salvageable or am I better off getting a new one? Pictures are below.

Replace it,
Someone around here probably has a few good ones laying around.

Looks like youre into the point where it seals against the seat,id say bite the bullet and atleast have a used valve ground for it and see how it seals against the seat

steell wrote: Replace it,
Someone around here probably has a few good ones laying around.

Is there any chance for revival? I could buy a new one but I don't know the procedure for getting it ready to seat.

wireman wrote: Looks like youre into the point where it seals against the seat,id say bite the bullet and atleast have a used valve ground for it and see how it seals against the seat

Like find a used valve and lap it?


So far this is what I've found. I wasn't able to find any used ones on ebay.

I am a little confused on how the valve got messed up while the spark plug was being helicoiled.

donthaveakawman wrote: I am a little confused on how the valve got messed up while the spark plug was being helicoiled.

I believe the intake valve was still slightly open when I tapped bigger threads for the helicoil.