Cylinder head removal and valve question

So, long story short I had to rethread a sparkplug hole using sav-a-thread, basically a helicoil. In doing so I'm pretty sure I bent a valve because I'm getting zero compression now. Literally none. Already checked to see the gauge was working fine. When I was working on rethreading I was being really careless and anxious and I didn't check the crankshaft to see if the valves were in their seated position, I just looked in and said okay. I'm about to take it apart soon, but it's possible to get the head off without removing the engine first right? Has anyone installed new valves before and have any words of advice?

How many did you ding?
If it were me Id go ahead and check all the guides and do new seals while youre in there,Id also have all the other seats and valve faces checked while youre in there

wireman wrote: How many did you ding?
If it were me Id go ahead and check all the guides and do new seals while youre in there,Id also have all the other seats and valve faces checked while youre in there

I'm not sure yet, all I know right now is that I'm getting zero compression in the one cylinder I worked with, and before it was working 100%. Hell, even with the torn spark plug threads I was getting 80psi. I suppose its perfect timing to learn how to check them so why not

You can absolutely take the head off without pulling the motor and the cylinder too if need be.

I would definitely get the head done when it's off, air cooled engines wear the valves and seals quickly. Put in some VITON valve seals.

Upgraded my kz900 with out any problems. I bought a manual first which helped a lot. I also took a lot of pictures as I went along. Funny how soon you forget where or how something goes when you get ready to put it back.

bountyhunter wrote: You can absolutely take the head off without pulling the motor and the cylinder too if need be.

I would definitely get the head done when it's off, air cooled engines wear the valves and seals quickly. Put in some VITON valve seals.

Great. I'm going to start removing the head today, wish me luck.

Ouch so I didn't quite get all the shavings out. I think I used too much grease when grinding out the new spark plug hole because there was like a mucus of little shavings around the piston and on top of the combustion chamber ceiling. So I tested the valves and the intake is the one leaking. I'm not sure if it is because of shavings or I actually bent it, but I'll find that out tomorrow when I get it out. I'm also getting worried that the piston rings might be carrying some grainy shavings, so the cylinder block may be coming out too. Next time if I did this again I think I would use less grease and allow the shavings to come through dry(er). I was reminded on another forum that I shouldn't have taken out the spark plug while the engine was warm.

Spenzher wrote: Ouch so I didn't quite get all the shavings out. I think I used too much grease when grinding out the new spark plug hole because there was like a mucus of little shavings around the piston and on top of the combustion chamber ceiling. So I tested the valves and the intake is the one leaking. I'm not sure if it is because of shavings or I actually bent it, but I'll find that out tomorrow when I get it out. I'm also getting worried that the piston rings might be carrying some grainy shavings, so the cylinder block may be coming out too. Next time if I did this again I think I would use less grease and allow the shavings to come through dry(er). I was reminded on another forum that I shouldn't have taken out the spark plug while the engine was warm.

My old 750 was fouling plugs every ten minutes before I overhauled it. Removed the plugs hot at least 100 times with no problem to put in the spare set so I could get home.....

Spenzher wrote: I'm also getting worried that the piston rings might be carrying some grainy shavings, so the cylinder block may be coming out too.

That would concern me too.

My advice is to use your digital camera and take a whole heap of pictures if this is the first time your are taking off the head and maybe the cylinder block, very useful for assembling later on.

My advice would be absolutely get the factory manual before starting anything.

Spenzher wrote:

wireman wrote: How many did you ding?
If it were me Id go ahead and check all the guides and do new seals while youre in there,Id also have all the other seats and valve faces checked while youre in there

I'm not sure yet, all I know right now is that I'm getting zero compression in the one cylinder I worked with, and before it was working 100%. Hell, even with the torn spark plug threads I was getting 80psi. I suppose its perfect timing to learn how to check them so why not

I think of it in terms of youre already inside of the motor,why not check it all now and buy yourself many more years of trouble free service out of it.