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Cylinder head removal and valve question
- donthaveakawman
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- Spenzher
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I used a ton of grease, probably too much. I ended up not being able to get out the aluminum chips that went into the combustion chamber because of the grease that clumped it into the corners.donthaveakawman wrote: did you use any grease?
'83 KZ750N Shaft
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- LarryC
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Larry C.
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- donthaveakawman
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- wireman
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- The most interesting prick in the world
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posting from deep under a non-descript barn in an undisclosed location southwest of Omaha.
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- donthaveakawman
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- Spenzher
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wireman wrote: Hes already got some coming
Thank you for the offerLarryC wrote: If you need KZ intake valves I have a box full. Pay shipping and I'll send you 4
donthaveakawman wrote: what kind of tap did you use? the grease should catch all the shavings. supposedly it is better with the piston at tdc so the chips have less distance to go if there are any. that and the obvious at this point is the valves.
I used something called 'sav-a-thread' you find at autozone. Woulda worked had I not hit the intake valve and cleaned up a bit better
donthaveakawman wrote: It might not be a bad idea, it may not work due to the design of the cylinder head. There is a technique for some heads to take a drill on the end of the valve with the valve covered in grease and spin it while it is in there to wear the seat so it seals better.
Are you talking about lapping the valve?
'83 KZ750N Shaft
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- donthaveakawman
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Spenzher wrote: I used something called 'sav-a-thread' you find at autozone. Woulda worked had I not hit the intake valve and cleaned up a bit better
Are you talking about lapping the valve?
it is decidedly so.
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- Spenzher
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donthaveakawman wrote:
Spenzher wrote: I used something called 'sav-a-thread' you find at autozone. Woulda worked had I not hit the intake valve and cleaned up a bit better
Are you talking about lapping the valve?
it is decidedly so.
Ya I plan on doing that when I get the valve so it will seat better.
On another note, I've been researching and I'm hoping someone can chime in but I've read that I have to get the valve and valve seat machined to fit?? Seriously hoping not
'83 KZ750N Shaft
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- Patton
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If not properly sealing on the workbench, it won't properly seal after reinstalling the head.
Don't go overboard with the lapping, as lapping isn't a substitute for grinding the valve and cutting the seat. Excessive lapping can be detrimental to the ideal fit desired between valve and seat.
With modern valve grinding and seat cutting equipment, lapping may not be required at all.
The FSM will explain how to achieve the desired valve/valve seat contact area (i.e., neither too wide nor too narrow).
Good Fortune!
1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
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- LarryC
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Ultimately, in everything you do...ask yourself one important question. Is the effort and cost going to justify the end result? Which brings to mind the next point to consider...
"Only a farmer can start with $hit and end up with something good"
Larry C.
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- Spenzher
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Patton wrote: Would install the replacement valve, and determine whether it's properly sealing in its seat while the head is still on the workbench.
If not properly sealing on the workbench, it won't properly seal after reinstalling the head.
Don't go overboard with the lapping, as lapping isn't a substitute for grinding the valve and cutting the seat. Excessive lapping can be detrimental to the ideal fit desired between valve and seat.
With modern valve grinding and seat cutting equipment, lapping may not be required at all.
The FSM will explain how to achieve the desired valve/valve seat contact area (i.e., neither too wide nor too narrow).
Good Fortune!
okay. I think I can lap it properly but I could bring it to a machinist and have them cut a new seat right? What are my chances of doing this by myself successfully? How do I go about finding someone who can do that? I googled a little bit but didn't find any leads.
also, Flying Spaghetti Monster? wat
'83 KZ750N Shaft
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