Newly rebuilt KZ1000P engine will not rev...

So I rechecked the valve clearance numbers, they were all within tolerance (0.002"-0.006"), however I played musical shims with them and got most of them between 0.003" and 0.005". All but one, so I need a new shim. I went to my local Kawasaki store to get one, and instead got into a heated argument about the validity of using thousandths of an inch for precise measurements on Kawasaki shims. He refused to measure a 245 shim for me to tell me what it was in thousandths, so I bought it anyway. Too thin, I need a 250, which they didn't have. Gotta wait till Tuesday when my machine shop opens and I'll get one from them. Anyway, here are the clearances:

1 2 3 4
ex .005 .004 .003 .004
in .003 .003 .004 <.002

Once I get that proper shim installed I'll take a video and try plugging all the vacuum. I'll also try checking those exhaust pipes.

I dont know much about CV carbs . But I do know that this sound like the problem I had with my mk2 when I had the vacum line from the carb to the fuel tap and the breather line hooked together instead of the two vacum lines. It would start and idle but nothing above an idle . Until I put it right . Two vacum line together and one breather.

Alright, got that new shim. All the numbers are as above minus #4 intake, its now sitting at 0.005". Put it all back together and fired it up, still idles like hell, but I didn't expect otherwise. Let it warm up and sprayed some water on the headers, #1 and #2 steamed the water off instantly, #3 and #4 didn't. Not sure what to think here, since 1 and 4 fire off the same coil, same with 2 and 3. I'm getting spark, but is there a better way to check it than grounding the plug and watching it? Here's a video.

The spark should be hot,& blue. Still got the stock sparkplug caps? They contain a non-serviceable 5000 ohm resistor that will go bad afrom heat,vibration and age.

Ignition Spark Testers
www.lislecorp.com/divisions/products/?pr...ivision=1&category=8
www.lislecorp.com/divisions/products/?pr...ivision=1&category=8
(Using the Thexton 404 Spark tester)
www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Ignition-Tester/19368/1605376
(Briggs & Stratton ignition tester)

I had another diagnostic idea, but now I'm even more confused than before. So I mentioned that #3 & 4 headers were not boiling off the water, well I pulled the plugs to confirmed spark and idled the motor with the plugs just grounded against the head. It sounded the same. Then I reversed the process with the #1 & 2 plugs out, same story. It still idles like hell, but it sounds the same as with all 4 plugs installed. Any ideas?

watching the new video, well it really sounds rough. Without the ex hooked up or the airbox, i would bet its really lean.
So a couple of things, I know both yourself and this shop went through the carbs. Can you tell us What the Idle Mixture Screws are set at, how many turns out from lightly seated. They are actually under a small metal plug which has to be removed to adjust them. this should have been done to clean the carbs thoroughly, is why I'm asking. these screws would be removed for cleaning, checking that the O-ring on the screw is serviceable or replaced.
Then the spark. I'd at the very minimum replace the plug wires. You can buy it by the foot at the auto parts store for cheap, like .80 a foot. It screws into the coil and plug wire cap. Using a Ohm meter on the Plug Wire caps and the Ignition coils would be a good Idea. Do you have a DVOM (Digital Volt Ohm Meter)?
You can swap the coils right to left etc, to see if the issue moves.

Ignition coils properly connected?



Good Fortune!

You have no exhaust system other than an open pipe and no air filtration. That cannot be helping the engine idle smoothly. I would put the air filtration back on and finish installing the exhaust system then tune it. Ed

Alright guys, I've had a small breakthrough. The problem isn't the carbs or the spark, its the wiring bringing it all together. As I've stated, I yanked the stock harness and fabbed up my own, naturally I ran into a few problems with this, but I was able to make it work, kinda. Today I was rechecking all the wiring schematics and decided to reroute some of the grounds. The stock setup has the Blk/Y wire from the the IC ignitor mating with the Blk wire of the regulator, this is the ground. I disconnected the blk/y from the regulator and placed it directly to ground and it revved up! Now I have the opposite problem, it revs out of control when I do this. Any wiring gurus out there that might know whats up? I also played with the idle mix screws, but it slow the revving at all. Getting closer!

Alright guys, it was that damn ground wire. It was grounded enough to give me spark, but not good enough to run properly. It almost sounds proper now, I think when I rejet it and synch the carbs, I can get the idle down, right now it sits at 3500 RPM. Thanks for all the help everyone, I learned a ton from all your posts. Here's a video of how she sounds now:

looks like there is no air filter or baffle.

am I missing something, is there no choke flap in the first video?