Newly rebuilt KZ1000P engine will not rev...

As known, compression test should be performed with throttle held wide open, whereby sufficient air may be sucked through the carb bore into the combustion chamber, to be thereafter compressed by a rising piston.

If the throttle remains closed while attempting a compression test, the carb throttle slide is closed down, thereby allowing minimal air flow through the carb bore.

The above is more understandable when dealing with manual slide carbs, where opening the throttle (by twisting the hand-grip) manually raises the carb throttle slide, thereby opening the carb bore, which allows maximum air to flow through (for being sucked into the combustion chamber).

But not as understandable -- at least to me -- when dealing with CV carbs, where the throttle slides remain closed fully down when the engine isn't running, regardless of the wide-open throttle hand-grip position which only opens the butterfly.

Never-the-less, FSM compression test instructions for models with CV carbs say hold the throttle hand-grip in its wide open position when performing the test. And the FSM doesn't mention any need to prop the slide open (unless I overlooked that part).

Example:




It seems to me that compression testing with CV carbs would be more accurate if the throttle slides were at least somewhat open.

Good Fortune!

Patton,
You always get me thinking... :huh:

So here is everything I had done. The engine was COMPLETELY disassembled. The crankshaft was inspected for wear, but it checked out so was reinstalled. The cylinders were honed, new rings installed on the existing pistons. The head got a complete valve job and resurfacing by a machine shop. Those are the only things that got modified on this rebuild project. Cam chain was good, cams are the stock ones, all the other internal bits were cleaned, inspected, and reinstalled.

My leakdown test was done with an actual gauge, and I got less than 1% leakage from all the cylinders. I know it works properly because I cracked one of the valves just to be sure it indicated a leak, which it did. Today I redid the compression test after removing the whole carb rack. It looks a little better, though #3 is still lower than the rest. The engine was warmed up prior to doing this.

1 2 3 4
D 145 135 125 140
W 145 145 140 150

Just for good measure I adjusted the carbs again while they were off. Went ahead and confirmed that my pilot circuit was clear (thanks to Patton's diagram). I also adjusted the float level, it was in the upper reaches of the recommended range, so I lowered it a touch. It was running super rich at idle, hopefully this helps. I guess I'll also have my mechanic synch the carbs, as I don't have the gauges for that. More to follow, thanks everyone for the help!

That compression sounds better than before for sure.
Those BS34 carbs, the Idle Mixture screws are just that Mixture Volume. So in is lean and out is rich. Usually around 1-1/2 to 2 turns out from lightly seated gets them going. But you should fine tune them from there once warmed up.Checking the Sync between the distance each of the throttle valve butterflies are open on the bench is easy enough to do. But a running sync is still on the cards after that is done. While the carbs are off you can check the slide for holding vacuum in the chamber. Make sure the port at the Bell-mouth/ Air-horn to the vacuum chamber is clear, and also the two Air Correction jets. Compressed Air is best of course.
Hows the voltage to the coils and the spark quality? Are you using the B8ES NGK plugs, or something else? R in the part # is resistor plugs and should not be used with the NGK resistor spark plug caps.
The Ignition mechanical advancer on the right hand end of the crankshaft, is that moving freely? Have you checked the timing with a Light?
Is the Ignition Rotor installed on its Pin correctly, 1&4 pistons are at TDC when T mark lines up?
Got to be something, as it should easily pull up in RPM when the throttle is given.

Looking at the parts Fiche on Kawasaki.com, you don't have a mechanical advancer, its a CDI type electronic ignition. But I'd check the T mark to the TDC all the same as it will effect ignition timing and possibly Cam to Crank if it was off when tht was set. Compression doesn't show cam timing to be off though, that was the my reason for the comp test.

Id worry more about the compression numbers once it gets a few miles on it to seat the rings

Here are the pics of the cams Motor Head. Everything lines up, sprockets are done right, got 44 pins from one arrow to the other (not counting pin "0" of course). I don't think this is the problem, but have at it, lol.

Exhaust cam:


Intake cam:

So I took it in to my mechanic and had them do a carb synch. The idle sounded better but it still won't rev. Even these guys seemed stumped but told me to leave it there. Lets hope they can figure it...

Find a set of 28s off a 79-80 motor and bolt them on with the correct carb boots,see if this solves your problem

I'm not very familiar with different carb types, 28s?

non cv carbs off a 79-80 kz1000

I had valve work done on a head, and the mechanic(s) somehow got the cams switched around. After installing the head (with the cams oriented correctly), the lash-tolerances were out of whack. Fortunately, I didn't just throw it together and try to start it, but still wonder how it would have run if I did.

Was the timing chain ajuster disasembled before installing it into the engine block