cam chain to tight

Is it possible that since I have a GPZ with the high performance cams, there is a different cam timing? The method I have been using is for the KZ550. Umm?

No, performance cams are timed just like stock ones. Even if you degree them with slotted sprockets the stock timing marks are still used.

dfinnegan71 wrote: Is it possible that since I have a GPZ with the high performance cams, there is a different cam timing? The method I have been using is for the KZ550. Umm?

As Baldy says, it's the same timing procedure for all KZ 550's. (The ZX 550 and KZ400J use different sprockets and markings.)

Ok good to know. I didn't know that, now that I do, I can rule that out. It must be something simple I am missing. Will try again tomorrow. When I do get this right, I owe u guys a beer!

I have concluded that the problems is the cam caps were to tight. I losened them all a quarter turn and from where it would bind up I was than able to move through the trouble area with greater ease. It's still takes a little bit more effort to turn past that spot but at least its better. This is of course after the cap bolts were torqued to 8.5 ft lbs. (I tightened them to what I thought was snug. Turns out, my idea of snug is more than 8.5 ft lbs.) what do think, normal or is this still not right?

Did you lube the cams/journals before installing? Cam caps should be tightened to spec using a torque wrench. Ed

dfinnegan71 wrote: I have concluded that the problems is the cam caps were to tight. I losened them all a quarter turn and from where it would bind up I was than able to move through the trouble area with greater ease. It's still takes a little bit more effort to turn past that spot but at least its better. This is of course after the cap bolts were torqued to 8.5 ft lbs. (I tightened them to what I thought was snug. Turns out, my idea of snug is more than 8.5 ft lbs.) what do think, normal or is this still not right?

There is still something not right. A small variance on the cam cap bolts should not affect the rotational resistance of the cams. There should be clearance in the journals. One thing that can cause that type of binding is using the wrong cam caps. That means they are in the wrong position (this also happens if you swap caps from another motor).

Sorry to hit you with a million questions, but there are a lot of variables to address:

Did you put oil on the cam journals when you installed them?
Are all of the caps in the correct location numerically?
Do all of the cap arrows point the same direction?

Does the chain now have plenty of slack?
When you rotate the engine, can you maintain the slack droop between the camshafts using your hand to push down, as shown in the drawing or does the slack disappear?
Do you have the plugs removed, or at least loose, so the motor will not build compression?
Is the tach gear out?
Is the tensioner out, or the crosswedge out? If so there should be plenty of slack in the chain.

The motor will have resistance to turning as the cams press down on valves, but when the cams rotate past the valves, the valves will push the cam. It will feel like the cam jumps. To prevent this, when turning the motor, you should put a hand on the chain between the cams. That will buffer the tendency to jump.
(Also when turning the motor, the tensioner should be in place. You can do it without the crosswedge, but you must be super careful to monitor the chain tension by hand so cams don't jump timing. Or you can put the corsswedge in and try to maintain slack on the top by pushing with your hand.)

You should be able to rtock the cams back and forth rotationally when they are bolted in as long as they are not pushing any one particular valve down all the way. If it does not do that, then there is some binding for some reason.

Hey Lou don't apologize for asking to many questions I appreciate your help and advice more than you know! To answer:
Yes, I oiled the journals and lobes. The tach gearis out the cam chain tensioner is in cross wedge out. No slack in the chain. She's very tight. The spark plugs are out, the caps are in the right location with arrows all pointing forward.

If the chain has no slack, then there is something wrong down below and out of sight. The chain may be folded or, like I said earlier, there is something foreign down there.

Can you do a full rotation of the crank without too much resistance, and have the timing stay exactly the same (on the exhaust cam)? If a full rotation ends in different timing, then there is something on the crankshaft sprocket that the chain is wrapped around.

Do not force the motor to turn past a ridgid stop. That can be catastrophic.

Hey Lou don't apologize for asking to many questions I appreciate your help and advice more than you know! To answer:
Yes, I oiled the journals and lobes. The tach gearis out the cam chain tensioner is in cross wedge out. No slack in the chain. She's very tight. The spark plugs are out, the caps are in the right location with arrows all pointing forward.

Looks like there was a double post...

If the chain has no slack, then there is something wrong down below and out of sight. The chain may be folded or, like I said earlier, there is something foreign down there.

Can you do a full rotation of the crank without too much resistance, and have the timing stay exactly the same (on the exhaust cam)? If a full rotation ends in different timing, then there is something on the crankshaft sprocket that the chain is wrapped around.

Do not force the motor to turn past a ridgid stop. That can be catastrophic.

The link is a video I did hoping to shed some light on what is going wrong here. After this failure, I loosened the cam cap bolts about a quarter turn each and it turned over easier. But take a look and see if you can see anything.