cam chain to tight

Just out of curiosity, are any cylinders at or near tdc when the binding occurs? I'm not aware of the timing procedure on your bike, but perhaps some photos of the marks that your using. I was guilty of using the wrong marks, and I had to look at photos from my book, and this site and others to determine where my mark should have been, once I deciphered that, I found the tiny scratch that was and is my timing mark!

Good luck
Tom

i believe it happens right before the 1 & 4 are at TDC for a second time. It won't go one full rotation of the timing sproket. But the more I think about it the more I think that the cams are binding up because of the tight as hell cam chain. That is the root of all my problems....now to figure out why????

I had a look at your video. I was wondering, is the Wedge from the tensioner loose there? I can see the end which contacts the spring. Pull the wedge out.
Also can you take a picture of the camshafts in relation to the cylinder head valve cover gasket surface, with the 1-4 mark at TDC. Show both the cam gears and the left end of the sticks.

The wedge is loose. It's just kinda resting in there. It wasn't really part of the tensioner at that moment, i think. I will get a pic or another video up in the morning with what you are asking to see. Thanks for watching and helping.

If the wedge is loose/ out, then the chain should be slack at the top. You should be able to push down with 1 finger and the tensioner spring should be forced in. An inch of slack would be easy to obtain. What happens when you remove the tensioner body? There is a small pin, for the slide travel, be careful not to drop/ lose it. If that does nothing, then It sounds like you are off the edge of the crankshaft gear.

Ok the latest is, with the cam chain tensioner out I get the inch of slack. No problem there. I've turned the crankshaft withe tensioner still but it is hard to keep everything in line when cranking. Naturally the exhaust cam gets a little ahead of the intake cam. Tomorrow in the AM I am going to install the valve cover and tensioner and give it a turn. All should stay timed and turn freely.... I hope!

Problem solved! Thanks guys for all your input. i honestly feel like a fool. After taking out the cam chain tensioner all the way, I got the slack on top between the cams. I than installed the valve cover knowing it has the cam guide up top to take up said slack. Than, lastly I installed the cam chain tensioner. Alas, with it all buttoned up I can turn the crankshaft as many times as I like with out binding up. Again, gentlemen, I thank you.

Alright! Time to do some burnouts! :evil:

Ha ha! Thanks Loudhbx, but there will be no burnouts on that pricey rear Firestone!

One more question on this topic for you smart guys. I got 'er all buttoned up, ya know exhaust on coils on, carbs on. It fired right up no problem but here come the question's. The engine made a lot more noise than it did before....
Since I drained the oil 5 days ago and I flushed it with some diesel, had the head off, the jugs off...how long does it take for the new oil to get recirculated through out the motor? I had it running for about 3 minuets but it was so loud... clickety, clack, clack, rat-a-tat click... I shut it off thinking it screwed the pooch in there somewhere. Than I thought no it just hasn't got the new oil up in the head yet, right? I hope?

Oil should have pressurized in seconds. Unless its banging apart , let it warm up.

Thanks streetfighter. It wasnt' banging apart, just louder than before my disassemble/reassemble gasket job. Thanks for your input.