Cleaning combustion chambers...thoughts??

As stated above, if it aint broke don't fix it. I was a Ford tech for awhile, and we used the BG products. My personal opinion is that the main benefit is from cleaning carbon of the tops of intake valves which will help starting and fuel economy. My other personal opinion is that (as also stated above) all that crap has to go somewhere, and on newer vehicles, the only way out of the exhaust is through very small holes in the cats. There is also the valve seat issue. In my recent dissassembly of my 39k KZ head, I found the worst case I've ever seen of carbon destruction of valves and seats. Carbon does not "cushion", you want solid metal to metal contact. Once you start loosening up any built up carbon, it will continue to come loose. It's not like you'll completely clean your engine in one treatment, even if it's dirty, which it may not be.

Long story short, if it runs good and fuel economy is good, don't f'''' with it.

650ed wrote:

apbling wrote: So, would doing this improve things on my truck (I don't really have any issues)? It sounds like for me, it might be a higher risk vs not much reward.

I've always been told "if it ain't broke don't fix it." :laugh:

Bullseye. With all the sensitive sensors on new vehicles, don't do a thing until something is wrong.

Hehe, WHAT colorado forum are you on sir? I am banditz on BOTH of the only forums for our trucks. I am the carlolina chapter leader and member of the MTS crew as well on 355 nation.


Now as for your question, DO IT! But be careful..remove the vac hose from the brake booster. Slowly tilt the can of sea foam into the hose leading into the intake until it starts sucking the fluid out of the can. Do NOT just stick the frigging hose in the can!

Do this for about half the can, the truck will start smoking white smoke, A TON of it. When your at a half or so cut off or choke teh truck out and let her sit say 5-10 minutes or so. Then start her back up, and finish doing the can. once you have done that, plug the hose back on, remove the TB, clean it, and remove the MAF sensor and clean it. Doing all three of those things will make your good running truck into a GREAT running truck. Also lose the stock plugs, and grab some denso irradiums. And finally gut yoru FIRST cat for a added 10hp PROVEN gain, and last get a tune. The tune to remove your GM stock tune, your torque management, and to give great throttle response! Not to mention around 2-4mpg better fuel milage.

Last, leave the colorado/ canyon questions to the expert's on THOSE trucks! LOL I came here myself to the expert's on these bike's for info I needed. Not posted up on teh nation about my quad engine...these guys likely do not know our trucks at all. Like i did not know these bike engine's! better left to those that know what exactly they are dealing with then a general knowledge question.

Sea foam treatment's have been done since the 40's and are a great way to NOT clean teh cylinder walls, BUT the VALVE's and the INTAKE, and EXHAUST ports. It does hardly anything for the cylinder walls. And No..in ANY engine as soon as the piston goes back up there is new oil applied every cycle to the cylinder walls, so that idea is completely thrown out with that info right there.

IF your not a member of teh nation please become one, it's much better than colorado fans, and it's a pure brotherhood kind of forum man. We take care of each other and if your near to me or any other brother's on there we would be more than happy to meet up with you and help in any way we could. Just like this forum seems to be to me!! Already have learned so much from GREAT member's on here! Would love to see ya over there..

I use this and it works great. I used it before i tore apart my "J" motor and the crowns and domes were clean as a whistle. This is what they looked like after I took them apart with about 20K on the engine. I used it three times in a row to achieve this result. i will post a thread that explains the proper use of it.
kzrider.com/forum/2-engine/369254-piston-top-cleaning

Hey Banditz, I'm on colorado fans. Not a big poster, just browse around and see what people do for things. I learned a few things here and there. New Denso irridiums should be at my door tonight

As for posting here, I just wanted a second opinion on the matter. I feel more comfortable here since I have dealt with alot of the guys already. I am not sure if some of the people posting on the truck forum are young kids experimenting or guys that have been working with engines for a long time. I'll take a peek into the forum you mentioned.

like i always say "if theres a river build a bridge" so there is two ways to go about this you 1. can take off your cat- duh then run the hell out of it or 2. you could take off the cat and run a broom handle through it-some effort required you will want to gut it real good if you go this route then reassemble it and then give it the ye olde italian tune up or run that crap through there or what have you. be careful you could really foul up your engine, piss off your neighbors and due to the sound and/or get the environmentalists/hippies after you. make sure you rev it once in a while those connecting rods do stretch at high rpms and if you wussyfoot the gas the wear and tear will leave a ring on the top of the cylinder walls and ruin it for the lead footed next owner if you ever want to part with it.- i helped a buddy of mine rebuild the top end of his harley engine that was just built with forged pistons and yada yada the pistons were oval shaped and the valves had blowby pretty bad i think one piston had 20 psi compression and the other had none im pretty sure it was because of his straight pipe exhaust and maybe the carb and air cleaner were in need of some attention

Yeah thats what i figured bro. that site WAS ok...along time ago though they sold out. When they did TONS of info was lost, or taken down. ALL that work is now on the Nation man. We have how to's on EVERYTHING you could ever want to do. And EVERy how to goes through ME and teh rest of the MTS crew BEFORE it ever can be seen by the rest of the member's. So no worries about about the kids posting man. We go through every thread as well making sure each is correct, and ANY bad info is immediately brought to our attention and either corrected, or deleted.

We would love to see ya on there man. later..Will

sorry it just didnt sound like the dude knew what he was talking about no act to be hippier than thou

I run Amsoil in just about everything I can, the product you're thinking of is PowerFoam. www.amsoil.com/storefront/apf.aspx

I've used it several times with good success on my KZ900. The carbs were never properly jetted correctly, always running rich. I haven't shot it with Powerfoam in awhile, thanks for the reminder! I usually do it right before an oil change- get engine to proper operating temp (ride it around for 15 minutes) then set a high idle and peel back the airbox to carb boots. Squirt a few sustained blasts into each carb then ride it around, don't be shy about riding with emphasis. Once it cools off a bit, I'll drain my oil and change the plugs.

step 1:i would pour engine oil 10w30 down the carburetor while its running then turn it off then spray the entire engine compartment with degreaser then pull the spark plugs then have a battery charger on the battery then have someone turn over the engine with the coil disconnected
step2 :then spray carburetor cleaner into the intake a few cans will do
if you value your engine then skip step 1

a little type f, a little seafoam and a little iso-heet is all you need buddy. but remember just a dab will do ya this is going into 3 gallons of gas.

donthaveakawman wrote:

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a little type f, a little seafoam and a little iso-heet is all you need buddy. but remember just a dab will do ya this is going into 3 gallons of gas.

this is how i do it how you do it might turn out different ie; gulf oil spill etc...