- Posts: 2440
- Thank you received: 28
Timing and powerbamd
- larrycavan
- Visitor
Motor Head wrote:
That's it in a nut shell!
Looks like the range in my head was about the recommended in your article, go figure. :laugh:
Oh and if you look at the stock KZ advancer, you will see that both weights come out and hit a tap/ stop. This is the Total Movement of the assy. If one so Desired to change the amount of movement/ Advance, one could adjust these stops/ tabs to take away say 4 degrees, quite easily. Oh I just gave away my little adjustment, oh well.
Motor head
Yes your idea on the spark advance is correct. People have been bending the tabs for years. People have tried many different spring rates.
For myself (only) The spark advance is used for starting the bike and Idling around.....The rest of the time that prick is wide open, so I only worry about total timing. That is why I had suggested indexing your own "timing marks" in the cam degreeing thread.....Once again that's only me.....I am not suggesting it, to no one else.
Look at all the info in this Denco one page article, it's been around for many years. Notice where they use the coldest plugs then jet to them. That may save some heat, in the jetting and timing. Could be good for guys in hot climates.
What about the side gapped plugs or plug indexing. The list of small tricks goes on and on.
Anybody can build these motors but only a few can truely tune them. Maybe it's a Zen thing, being as one with the motor..........I don't know, maybe I'm just full of shit?
I'm going with the last option :laugh: Just Kiddin
Keep bending those advancer tabs.... there's always more to be coaxed of out the motor with that method.
'course you'll eventually reach the point where you'll need either
a] more zddp
b] coil mod
c] both
:woohoo:
Are you running Bonneville or riding it on the street?
Get serious guys. Acceleration is what makes a great street motor. They already go faster on top end than the crap chassis is capable of keeping up with....
:ohmy:
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- larrycavan
- Visitor
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- TeK9iNe
- Offline
- User
- What did you do!?!
Keep bending those advancer tabs.... there's always more to be coaxed of out the motor with that method.
'course you'll eventually reach the point where you'll need either
a] more zddp
b] coil mod
c] both
:woohoo:
Are you running Bonneville or riding it on the street?
Get serious guys. Acceleration is what makes a great street motor. They already go faster on top end than the crap chassis is capable of keeping up with....
:ohmy:
:laugh: What good is all that power if you have to wring the engine out to 10000rpm to get anything. It's deffinately a racers trick.
Not to mention that the life of the engine is considerably shorter at 10000rpm, than at around 6500/7500rpm where most max torque is available stock.
You're not really making the bike much quicker, less you blast it off the line at 8000rpm, which you should only be doing at a strip anyways. Do you really need to achieve a few mph more on the street?
OH well. To each thier own. I got 3 bikes for just this reason!
Motorcycle Shop Owner/Operator
79 Kawie Z1000 LTD
81 Kawie Z1000 CSR
83 Honda VT750C A
85 Kawie GPZ900 A2
86 Zukie GS1150 EG
93 Yamie XV1100 E
Lucky to have rolled many old bikes through my doors
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- larrycavan
- Visitor
larrycavan wrote:
Keep bending those advancer tabs.... there's always more to be coaxed of out the motor with that method.
'course you'll eventually reach the point where you'll need either
a] more zddp
b] coil mod
c] both
:woohoo:
Are you running Bonneville or riding it on the street?
Get serious guys. Acceleration is what makes a great street motor. They already go faster on top end than the crap chassis is capable of keeping up with....
:ohmy:
:laugh: What good is all that power if you have to wring the engine out to 10000rpm to get anything. It's deffinately a racers trick.
Not to mention that the life of the engine is considerably shorter at 10000rpm, than at around 6500/7500rpm where most max torque is available stock.
You're not really making the bike much quicker, less you blast it off the line at 8000rpm, which you should only be doing at a strip anyways. Do you really need to achieve a few mph more on the street?
OH well. To each thier own. I got 3 bikes for just this reason!
Exactly
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- otakar
- Offline
- User
74 Z1-A stock
76 KZ-900 Totaly stock vice MAC pipe
77 KZ-1000A stock
78 Z1-R 100%MINT 500 original Mi.
78 Z1-R Yoshi 1103 kit stage 1 cams Yoshi pipe. Etc
79 KZ-1300 (1400)
80 KZ-1300
81 Scratch built GPz1150R
82 KZ1000
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- PLUMMEN
- Offline
- User
- Posts: 8139
- Thank you received: 104
larrycavan wrote:
Keep bending those advancer tabs.... there's always more to be coaxed of out the motor with that method.
'course you'll eventually reach the point where you'll need either
a] more zddp
b] coil mod
c] both
:woohoo:
Are you running Bonneville or riding it on the street?
Get serious guys. Acceleration is what makes a great street motor. They already go faster on top end than the crap chassis is capable of keeping up with....
:ohmy:
:laugh: What good is all that power if you have to wring the engine out to 10000rpm to get anything. It's deffinately a racers trick.
Not to mention that the life of the engine is considerably shorter at 10000rpm, than at around 6500/7500rpm where most max torque is available stock.
You're not really making the bike much quicker, less you blast it off the line at 8000rpm, which you should only be doing at a strip anyways. Do you really need to achieve a few mph more on the street?
OH well. To each thier own. I got 3 bikes for just this reason!
Still recovering,some days are better than others.
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- nads.com
- Topic Author
- Offline
- User
- Posts: 1000
- Thank you received: 20
My crap chasis isn't crap anymore. I took the swingarm apart and tightened the heck out of and I had no problem at 130mph 20 minutes ago. I would have gone to 140 no problem. I'm still crossing my fingers on the chasis though since it hasn't seen enough road. Use to shake terrible. I read otak's post and went out and dropped it to second at 70. Not bad but hmm? put It back in at 70 and wound it up to 80 and 90. NOW were talking! Went animal on me big time. know why. Cuz the sucker is fast with rpm. I was on a ramp and gassed it in second a little, the back felt like something broke sideways in half. I stopped and found my tire not to have much air. I'd been leaning those corners pretty low too. Probly would have rolled it over the bead seal if I'd given it all it had. It's the last few rpm when the engine really goes too, it's perfect for battle. If I knocked 120lbs off the bike it would be as light and fast as a 1000cc sport bike, now what has technology actually done? Very little. while I was grinding away on some piece of metal, technology was standing still. And I had no idea I was about to take a ride of my own. Because some Japenese put pencil marks on paper explaining the thrill in his mind... K Zkzz1p wrote:
Motor Head wrote:
That's it in a nut shell!
Looks like the range in my head was about the recommended in your article, go figure. :laugh:
Oh and if you look at the stock KZ advancer, you will see that both weights come out and hit a tap/ stop. This is the Total Movement of the assy. If one so Desired to change the amount of movement/ Advance, one could adjust these stops/ tabs to take away say 4 degrees, quite easily. Oh I just gave away my little adjustment, oh well.
Motor head
Yes your idea on the spark advance is correct. People have been bending the tabs for years. People have tried many different spring rates.
For myself (only) The spark advance is used for starting the bike and Idling around.....The rest of the time that prick is wide open, so I only worry about total timing. That is why I had suggested indexing your own "timing marks" in the cam degreeing thread.....Once again that's only me.....I am not suggesting it, to no one else.
Look at all the info in this Denco one page article, it's been around for many years. Notice where they use the coldest plugs then jet to them. That may save some heat, in the jetting and timing. Could be good for guys in hot climates.
What about the side gapped plugs or plug indexing. The list of small tricks goes on and on.
Anybody can build these motors but only a few can truely tune them. Maybe it's a Zen thing, being as one with the motor..........I don't know, maybe I'm just full of shit?
I'm going with the last option :laugh: Just Kiddin
Keep bending those advancer tabs.... there's always more to be coaxed of out the motor with that method.
'course you'll eventually reach the point where you'll need either
a] more zddp
b] coil mod
c] both
:woohoo:
Are you running Bonneville or riding it on the street?
Get serious guys. Acceleration is what makes a great street motor. They already go faster on top end than the crap chassis is capable of keeping up with....
:ohmy:
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- nads.com
- Topic Author
- Offline
- User
- Posts: 1000
- Thank you received: 20
I'm not missing any low speed power. And I'm not missing any bikes , mines three in one. :woohoo:larrycavan wrote:
Keep bending those advancer tabs.... there's always more to be coaxed of out the motor with that method.
'course you'll eventually reach the point where you'll need either
a] more zddp
b] coil mod
c] both
:woohoo:
Are you running Bonneville or riding it on the street?
Get serious guys. Acceleration is what makes a great street motor. They already go faster on top end than the crap chassis is capable of keeping up with....
:ohmy:
:laugh: What good is all that power if you have to wring the engine out to 10000rpm to get anything. It's deffinately a racers trick.
Not to mention that the life of the engine is considerably shorter at 10000rpm, than at around 6500/7500rpm where most max torque is available stock.
You're not really making the bike much quicker, less you blast it off the line at 8000rpm, which you should only be doing at a strip anyways. Do you really need to achieve a few mph more on the street?
OH well. To each thier own. I got 3 bikes for just this reason!
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- porchev914
- Offline
- User
- Whats that? Half of my swingarm is missing?!?!?
- Posts: 2716
- Thank you received: 19
FRANKEN Z!
1978 KZ1000 A2A with 08'Speed Triple SSSA and '06 GSXR1000 front end
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- larrycavan
- Visitor
If you are so worried to have the proper timing at the proper RPM just get the MSD MC-4 ignition and you can program the timing at any advance at almost any RPM. And be done with it.
Yep
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- larrycavan
- Visitor
larrycavan wrote:
My crap chasis isn't crap anymore. I took the swingarm apart and tightened the heck out of and I had no problem at 130mph 20 minutes ago. I would have gone to 140 no problem. I'm still crossing my fingers on the chasis though since it hasn't seen enough road. Use to shake terrible. I read otak's post and went out and dropped it to second at 70. Not bad but hmm? put It back in at 70 and wound it up to 80 and 90. NOW were talking! Went animal on me big time. know why. Cuz the sucker is fast with rpm. I was on a ramp and gassed it in second a little, the back felt like something broke sideways in half. I stopped and found my tire not to have much air. I'd been leaning those corners pretty low too. Probly would have rolled it over the bead seal if I'd given it all it had. It's the last few rpm when the engine really goes too, it's perfect for battle. If I knocked 120lbs off the bike it would be as light and fast as a 1000cc sport bike, now what has technology actually done? Very little. while I was grinding away on some piece of metal, technology was standing still. And I had no idea I was about to take a ride of my own. Because some Japenese put pencil marks on paper explaining the thrill in his mind... K Zkzz1p wrote:
Motor Head wrote:
That's it in a nut shell!
Looks like the range in my head was about the recommended in your article, go figure. :laugh:
Oh and if you look at the stock KZ advancer, you will see that both weights come out and hit a tap/ stop. This is the Total Movement of the assy. If one so Desired to change the amount of movement/ Advance, one could adjust these stops/ tabs to take away say 4 degrees, quite easily. Oh I just gave away my little adjustment, oh well.
Motor head
Yes your idea on the spark advance is correct. People have been bending the tabs for years. People have tried many different spring rates.
For myself (only) The spark advance is used for starting the bike and Idling around.....The rest of the time that prick is wide open, so I only worry about total timing. That is why I had suggested indexing your own "timing marks" in the cam degreeing thread.....Once again that's only me.....I am not suggesting it, to no one else.
Look at all the info in this Denco one page article, it's been around for many years. Notice where they use the coldest plugs then jet to them. That may save some heat, in the jetting and timing. Could be good for guys in hot climates.
What about the side gapped plugs or plug indexing. The list of small tricks goes on and on.
Anybody can build these motors but only a few can truely tune them. Maybe it's a Zen thing, being as one with the motor..........I don't know, maybe I'm just full of shit?
I'm going with the last option :laugh: Just Kiddin
Keep bending those advancer tabs.... there's always more to be coaxed of out the motor with that method.
'course you'll eventually reach the point where you'll need either
a] more zddp
b] coil mod
c] both
:woohoo:
Are you running Bonneville or riding it on the street?
Get serious guys. Acceleration is what makes a great street motor. They already go faster on top end than the crap chassis is capable of keeping up with....
:ohmy:
What's the tach read at 90 in second gear?
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- PLUMMEN
- Offline
- User
- Posts: 8139
- Thank you received: 104
daaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaamn! :woohoo:nads.com wrote:
larrycavan wrote:
My crap chasis isn't crap anymore. I took the swingarm apart and tightened the heck out of and I had no problem at 130mph 20 minutes ago. I would have gone to 140 no problem. I'm still crossing my fingers on the chasis though since it hasn't seen enough road. Use to shake terrible. I read otak's post and went out and dropped it to second at 70. Not bad but hmm? put It back in at 70 and wound it up to 80 and 90. NOW were talking! Went animal on me big time. know why. Cuz the sucker is fast with rpm. I was on a ramp and gassed it in second a little, the back felt like something broke sideways in half. I stopped and found my tire not to have much air. I'd been leaning those corners pretty low too. Probly would have rolled it over the bead seal if I'd given it all it had. It's the last few rpm when the engine really goes too, it's perfect for battle. If I knocked 120lbs off the bike it would be as light and fast as a 1000cc sport bike, now what has technology actually done? Very little. while I was grinding away on some piece of metal, technology was standing still. And I had no idea I was about to take a ride of my own. Because some Japenese put pencil marks on paper explaining the thrill in his mind... K Zkzz1p wrote:
Motor Head wrote:
That's it in a nut shell!
Looks like the range in my head was about the recommended in your article, go figure. :laugh:
Oh and if you look at the stock KZ advancer, you will see that both weights come out and hit a tap/ stop. This is the Total Movement of the assy. If one so Desired to change the amount of movement/ Advance, one could adjust these stops/ tabs to take away say 4 degrees, quite easily. Oh I just gave away my little adjustment, oh well.
Motor head
Yes your idea on the spark advance is correct. People have been bending the tabs for years. People have tried many different spring rates.
For myself (only) The spark advance is used for starting the bike and Idling around.....The rest of the time that prick is wide open, so I only worry about total timing. That is why I had suggested indexing your own "timing marks" in the cam degreeing thread.....Once again that's only me.....I am not suggesting it, to no one else.
Look at all the info in this Denco one page article, it's been around for many years. Notice where they use the coldest plugs then jet to them. That may save some heat, in the jetting and timing. Could be good for guys in hot climates.
What about the side gapped plugs or plug indexing. The list of small tricks goes on and on.
Anybody can build these motors but only a few can truely tune them. Maybe it's a Zen thing, being as one with the motor..........I don't know, maybe I'm just full of shit?
I'm going with the last option :laugh: Just Kiddin
Keep bending those advancer tabs.... there's always more to be coaxed of out the motor with that method.
'course you'll eventually reach the point where you'll need either
a] more zddp
b] coil mod
c] both
:woohoo:
Are you running Bonneville or riding it on the street?
Get serious guys. Acceleration is what makes a great street motor. They already go faster on top end than the crap chassis is capable of keeping up with....
:ohmy:
What's the tach read at 90 in second gear?
Still recovering,some days are better than others.
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.