Engine break in concerns

my dyna is about 3 yrs old

XL777 wrote:

...when I tested 2/3 the light stayed on the whole time. I followed the testing instructions in the dyna instructions and pull out my plugs sure enough 2/3 were not sparking. So I switched the leads and sure enough they fired. SO looks like my 2/3 module is dead...don't want to have buy a new dyna....

If not already done, would assure there's battery positive voltage on the red wire where it enters 2/3 module.

Have never gone into Dyna-S harness to see how single red power wire entering harness becomes dual red power wires exiting the harness to provide a separate red wire to each module.

Just wild guessing that maybe something's wrong inside the harness allowing red wire power only to the 1/4 module.

Good Fortune!

do you mean test where the coil and the ignition wire meet? or where the wire meets the 2/3 module on the plate?

XL777 wrote:

do you mean test where the coil and the ignition wire meet? or where the wire meets the 2/3 module on the plate?

Good Fortune!

As known, signal wire from 2/3 module (shown with green collar) connects to primary terminal on whichever ignition coil is supposed to be firing inside spark plugs #2 and #3.

Am interpreting where test light is reportedly staying on to mean that when the rotor magnet passes 2/3 module, the module is failing to un-ground the coil primary.

Failure to un-ground the coil primary might also be caused by a break in the signal wire somewhere between the module and the ignition coil.

Am guessing somewhat, being unaware of exactly how the light test was set up.

Good Fortune!

Jeff Saunders of Z1 enterprises often warns about running a dyna ignition on a bike with electrical issues, more often than not he says the dyna's fail because of low voltage.

Hopefully that is not the case, but I would start hunting for another ignition.

I tested it using a test light connected to the junction on the 2/3 coil where the red dyna wire connects to the yellow/red coil wire. It could be a wire but how do you test that? there was no obvious signs of wire pinching or tear.

Does anyone use a different ignition setup that is more stable? I find these old bikes always have electrical qwirks

I plan on going over every connection cleaning it and taping it together so no wire can come loose. I have done the wired george upgrade as well. Are there any other electrical qwirks I should fix that I don't know. its a lot of $$$ going through ignitions >(

XL777 wrote:

...It could be a wire but how do you test that? there was no obvious signs of wire pinching or tear....

When needing to access the internal core of an insulated wire, for testing purposes, I use a sewing needle to temporarily penetrate the wire into the core, then connect test probe to the needle.

Good Fortune!

just find the other end of the circuit it comes out of and check for continuity

First things first. You should verify you have a power drain on the battery or not. With the key off take the ground cable off of the battery. Then get out your multimeter and turn it to amps. Connect the positive lead to the ground cable and negative lead to the batteries negative side. It should read 0 amps. Now switch to milliamps keeping the leads in the same place. It should read no more then 10 mA and it will probably read 0. If it reads higher then that, you have a power drain and its time to go hunting.

XL777 wrote:

I plan on going over every connection cleaning it and taping it together so no wire can come loose. I have done the wired george upgrade as well. Are there any other electrical qwirks I should fix that I don't know. its a lot of $$$ going through ignitions >(

SOLDER all of your connection together! It saves the agony of stupid connectors, and is just as easy to snip and resolder later.

Also reduces resistance significantly over the entire system!

Use good shrink wrap if you can. if not, then a quality elec. wrap/tape is ok.

GL!

Becker wrote:

First things first. You should verify you have a power drain on the battery or not. With the key off take the ground cable off of the battery. Then get out your multimeter and turn it to amps. Connect the positive lead to the ground cable and negative lead to the batteries negative side. It should read 0 amps. Now switch to milliamps keeping the leads in the same place. It should read no more then 10 mA and it will probably read 0. If it reads higher then that, you have a power drain and its time to go hunting.

YES... this is good advise! We do this on cars all the time with high amp testers to check alternators.