Engine break in concerns

I just Did a complete top end rebuild rings, bore to 1045, new head. I ran it last weekend to warm it up for the first ride Sunday and found I had a oil leak and a bad battery. So I shut I off after about 15 min of running. Then I got hurt and had no been able to run the bike until tonight.

My concern is have I screwed the rings since I warmed it up and not run it? I plan on using the run it hard method for the first 50miles then new oil till 500 method. But l hope I have not screwed myself

XL777 wrote:

I just Did a complete top end rebuild rings, bore to 1045, new head. I ran it last weekend to warm it up for the first ride Sunday and found I had a oil leak and a bad battery. So I shut I off after about 15 min of running. Then I got hurt and had no been able to run the bike until tonight.

My concern is have I screwed the rings since I warmed it up and not run it? I plan on using the run it hard method for the first 50miles then new oil till 500 method. But l hope I have not screwed myself

Wouldn't be at all concerned.
Motor was already broken in many years ago.
Now, just needs the new rings seated.
Presuming ring end gaps correct, etc.

Good Fortune!

The cyl were bored as well so a new break in is required no?
I have read so many conflicting ways to break in a motor one I thought I would through out the question

Just make sure that you run the right oil. Do not run normal automotive oil. It is not the right classification for these bikes. Most here on this web sight run Shell Rotella-T, which has all the proper additives for our bikes. Especially ZDDP, which is critical in our motors and is not contained in modern oils. I buy mine at Wall-Mart for about $22 for a 2.5Gal jug. Read threw this post to get some information.
kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&...ew&catid=2&id=352062

No worries. Just ride it normally in city riding. The only thing that might not be good is cruising at a single RPM like highway cruising, you need to accelerate up and down through the gear.

For the first 500 miles, keep the RPM's below about 1/2 of redline on the tachometer. I agree with the oil change after the first run but most say it's not necessary. Change oil/filter and check valves at 500 miles and you should be good to go.

Thanks I did read the above post. I'm using casrol gtx motorcycle oil it all I have used in the past but plan on using rotella t next.
I live in a small town so to get 50 miles in town would take days haha most of the road around here post 80-110 km/hr speeds so I will have to find a back road to cycle through the gear.
reading the different posts and online opinions makes this process sound extremely sensitive or really easy hah. I guess I'll just try it and see nothing will be as bad as it was.

XL777 wrote:

reading the different posts and online opinions makes this process sound extremely sensitive or really easy hah.

Yeah, some people want to make everything more complicated..... but ask yourself this:

If a proper break in required all the convoluted and complicated BS that some people say, wouldn't that mean most engines were not broken in properly? We would see many bikes driving down the road spraying oil because the rings never seated, but (of course) we don't see that.

Well I got it fired up warmed up and took it for a spin. good and bad things happened.

1. the bike idles well and revs up in neutral no problem. Seems to be a bugger to start and tends to pop when I kickstart it.
however once its in gear and rolling it is gutless and has no power. as I shift up the gears I can barely make it into 3rd.
I figure this can be three things
1. Clutch is dragging or too tightly adjusted
2. back brake is dragging
3. manual chain tensioner is too tight

a. Checked the clutch and can't seem to get it to adjust more. Was fine when I took it all apart.
b. adjusted the rear brake
c. relaxed the tensioner

My fear is something is wrong internally like no compression? I'm hoping it is a clutch thing since I had to adjust it a lot to even get it to disengage

2. I may have a f%*%*% oil leak on my base gasket on the left side. There was oil on the bottom of the bike when I parked (hoping its just residue


Sadly because of this I only got about 2km on the ring seating process. I'm going to let it all cool down tighten everything and try to adjust the clutch again. Any ideas??

Would assure advancer is functioning properly.
And that ignition timing is otherwise spot on.

Might possibly be incorrect cam timing.

Good Fortune!

I have it converted to electronic ignition so as far as I know it is set and forget.

The cam timing has to be spot on I checked it six ways from Sunday before I put it all together.

XL777 wrote:

I have it converted to electronic ignition so as far as I know it is set and forget.

The cam timing has to be spot on I checked it six ways from Sunday before I put it all together.

Dyna-S continues using the stock advancer.

The more elaborate Dyna ignition incorporates its own adjustable ignition timing system which no longer uses the stock advancer (my understanding).

the bike idles well and revs up in neutral no problem. Seems to be a bugger to start and tends to pop when I kickstart it. However once its in gear and rolling it is gutless and has no power. as I shift up the gears I can barely make it into 3rd. --- are classic symptoms of an advancer stuck in idle position.

What electronic ignition is fitted?

Good Fortune!

It is a dyna s ignition. I set it up a few yrs ago and don't remember any adjustments. It replaces all the original parts

I will pull the manual.

I assume I need to adjust the timming then? Would it work that poorly if the timing was out?

Do you think it could be the clutch at all dragging?