Engine break in concerns

XL777 wrote:

It is a dyna s ignition. I set it up a few yrs ago and don't remember any adjustments. It replaces all the original parts

I will pull the manual.

I assume I need to adjust the timming then? Would it work that poorly if the timing was out?

Do you think it could be the clutch at all dragging?

Would use timing light to align F mark with case mark at idle rpm. Also watch to assure advancer quickly moves back and forth as rpm is varied by blipping throttle. Advancer likely needs lubing (any oil), and perhaps both cleaning and lubing.

I don't suspect a clutch issue. If it was slipping, could readily tell by the increasing rpm without acceleration.

Any brake issue should also be easy to diagnose, as will ultimately lock from heat and bring the bike to a halt. Don't touch the disc, as it will likely be near red hot.

Good Fortune!

The rpm did increase with out acceleration.

However I think I figured it out and boy am I a colossol dumb ass. I had the plug wires hooked up wrong.

otakar wrote:

Just make sure that you run the right oil. Do not run normal automotive oil. It is not the right classification for these bikes. Most here on this web sight run Shell Rotella-T, which has all the proper additives for our bikes. Especially ZDDP, which is critical in our motors and is not contained in modern oils. I buy mine at Wall-Mart for about $22 for a 2.5Gal jug. Read threw this post to get some information.
kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&...ew&catid=2&id=352062

my god not the zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzp thing again! :laugh: put good oil in there,run it for 1/2 hour or so/few miles riding to get it hot and change it.
let the motor cool overnight and retorque everything on it.

I'm with Otakar: if you put in oil without ZDDP, you can seriously screw up the cams. If you are not sure if the oil has it, you can throw in 6 ounces of STP oil treatment (it has a lot of ZDDP). You can also buy ZDDP laced additives, I would not run a flat tappet engine without ZDDP. I have read too many posts about newly assembled engines that wiped the cam lobes running crappy car oil.

A lot of cars run crappy car oil with flat tappet cams, and they seem to run for 300,000 to even 400,000 miles.

Makes me wonder.

Since ZDDP has only been removed from oils since the end of 2007, that would mean that these cars have over 100,000 put on them per year. And yes, many of the older cars are getting wiped out. It's all over the inter nett.

Thanks guys for all the input. I have always used good motorcycle oil. This debate is on many other threads so i'd like to not do it again on this one.

otakar wrote:

Since ZDDP has only been removed from oils since the end of 2007, that would mean that these cars have over 100,000 put on them per year. And yes, many of the older cars are getting wiped out. It's all over the inter nett.

It was on that TV show last week that rebuilds old classic muscle cars. One of them had a newly rebuilt engine that was running bad and they found out it was a wiped cam because the guy didn't know about the oil thing. I would not risk it.

PLUMMEN wrote:

otakar wrote:

Just make sure that you run the right oil. Do not run normal automotive oil. It is not the right classification for these bikes. Most here on this web sight run Shell Rotella-T, which has all the proper additives for our bikes. Especially ZDDP, which is critical in our motors and is not contained in modern oils. I buy mine at Wall-Mart for about $22 for a 2.5Gal jug. Read threw this post to get some information.
kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&...ew&catid=2&id=352062

my god not the zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzp thing again! :laugh: put good oil in there,run it for 1/2 hour or so/few miles riding to get it hot and change it.
let the motor cool overnight and retorque everything on it.

:woohoo:

XL777 wrote:

I have it converted to electronic ignition so as far as I know it is set and forget.

The cam timing has to be spot on I checked it six ways from Sunday before I put it all together.

It's not exactly a kitchen gadget so the set it and forget doesn't apply when you have acceleration problems...

bountyhunter wrote:

otakar wrote:

Since ZDDP has only been removed from oils since the end of 2007, that would mean that these cars have over 100,000 put on them per year. And yes, many of the older cars are getting wiped out. It's all over the inter nett.

It was on that TV show last week that rebuilds old classic muscle cars. One of them had a newly rebuilt engine that was running bad and they found out it was a wiped cam because the guy didn't know about the oil thing. I would not risk it.

guys have been wiping cams out on new motors long before i was around,and im sure they will be long after im gone! :laugh:
if you dont break in the cam and lifters on a car the right way depending on whether its hydraulic or solid lifter i dont care what kind of oil youre using youre gonna flatten the cam lobes.
if you stick a new cam in your sb chevy and let it sit and idle without varying the rpms for 30 mins its headed for the camshaft pile in the sky.
if you dont coat the shit out of the cam and lifters with assembly lube before firing it up so its lubricated at start up btill the oil gets there its toast
if you dont pump up your hydraulic lifters before installing them you can jack things up
...........................

PLUMMEN wrote:

bountyhunter wrote:

otakar wrote:

Since ZDDP has only been removed from oils since the end of 2007, that would mean that these cars have over 100,000 put on them per year. And yes, many of the older cars are getting wiped out. It's all over the inter nett.

It was on that TV show last week that rebuilds old classic muscle cars. One of them had a newly rebuilt engine that was running bad and they found out it was a wiped cam because the guy didn't know about the oil thing. I would not risk it.

guys have been wiping cams out on new motors long before i was around,and im sure they will be long after im gone! :laugh:
if you dont break in the cam and lifters on a car the right way depending on whether its hydraulic or solid lifter i dont care what kind of oil youre using youre gonna flatten the cam lobes.
if you stick a new cam in your sb chevy and let it sit and idle without varying the rpms for 30 mins its headed for the camshaft pile in the sky.
if you dont coat the shit out of the cam and lifters with assembly lube before firing it up so its lubricated at start up btill the oil gets there its toast
if you dont pump up your hydraulic lifters before installing them you can jack things up
...........................

guys have been wiping cams out on new motors long before i was around,and im sure they will be long after im gone! :laugh:
if you dont break in the cam and lifters on a car the right way depending on whether its hydraulic or solid lifter i dont care what kind of oil youre using youre gonna flatten the cam lobes.

I think you miss the point: according to the engine builders, there is NO RIGHT WAY to break in an engine with high lift cams if the oil does not have the ZDDP it needs. Period. That's what they say and the proof is the ruined motors. The proof is also the decades of data on reduced engine wear which is why the ZDDP was first used and increased to levels around 1200 - 1500 ppm. And BTW, cams are not the only part of the engine that ZDDP reduces wear in, they are just the ones that will fail very quickly. The ZDDP also reduces wear on bearing surfaces and cylinder walls and any other place that is stressed at start up before proper lubrication is up. It's a no brainer, you have a proven additive that has worked for about 50 years and no reason not to use it. No way I am running without it.