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1977 KZ 1000 b1 LTD running rough
- davelKZ1000
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FYI.. Bad at grammer and spelling. That said
I am in dier need of advice. It is my understanding this bike has not been on the road since 1985.
I have a 1977 kz 1000b1 LTD with 17000 miles that I bought 4 months ago. When I got it i Changed the plugs and after multiple trys I finally got it to run but only on choke. than i cleaned the carbs, Not once but 2 times I removed the carbs and completely cleaned them. the second time arround I dissasembled each carb and soaked for a minimum of 20 minutes each. I rinsed with water and blew out with compressed air. I changed all orings and jets.
NOW: WHEN IT IS COLD OUT IT IS VERRY HARD TO START TURNS OVER AND OVER BUT BARELY FIRES. iT DOES EVENTUALLY START. on warmer days it starts right up but still takes a while for it to idle off choke
when first started if i give too much throttel it stalls.( its got a slight hesitaiton). It will not idle until it is warmed up once i take it for a ride it will idel but it is erratic. also once it sits for like 20 minuts to half hour it will not idle. Number 1 pipe gets warm but i can hold my hand on it after it has been running for 20 miniuts. once it does idle it fluctuates up and down and it pops a little out of the left pipe.(pipes are 4 into 2) the popping is on the same side as the number one pipe that does not get real hot.
The popping is louder when it is first started. I pulled the plug wire off the number one plug and it has spark. I could see the sparks when running.
The bike sounds real good other than the fluctuation and little popping/ backfireing out of one pipe. It is much better than when i started. I just can figure out this issue.
Thank You for any help
Dave.
What I have done....
Cleaned carbs and replaced jets and orings.
Checked point gap
Changed oil(did it twice to flush it out.)
changed spark plugs in the very begining
The compression is as follows
1. 115
2. 110-115
3.110
4.120
I also took infared reading of engine temp right behind each pipe with the engine reved to 2500rpm
1.93 degrees F
2.160 degrees f
3.177 degrees f
4.180 degrees f
Also the left pipe spits oil out when the engine is reved. I have pictures of this, the plugs, and more. I will try to post them.
After talking to a few guys I plan on checking the valves and adjusting if needed.
any other tips would be much appreciated.
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- BSKZ650
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it still sounds like you have some carb issues, someone smarter than me may be able to shed some light on where to look
77 kz650, owned for over 25 years
77 ltd1000, current rider
76 kz900, just waiting
73 z1,, gonna restore this one
piglet, leggero harley davidson
SR, Ride captian, S.E.Texas Patriot Guard Riders.. AKA KawaBob
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- sft1662
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I've got a similar problem, '78 KZ650 with #2 cylinder more or less dead. Mine has only been ridden a few hundred miles in the last 16 years (saw an entry in the manual that said "oil change march 1994 @ 10,4xx miles..." it only has 10,8xx now and I've put 100 on in the last couple weeks
Anyway enough of that - here is the thread that I made and a lot of people have given ideas and things to check. Hopefully you find something useful in there, thats about the most help I can offer because I'm pretty new to this.
kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&...ew&catid=2&id=355838
Electrical is fine for me, so now I'm going to clean the carbs - hopefully its an easy fix for you.
Best of luck
1978 KZ650 B2A
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- davelKZ1000
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Thanks for the help
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- sft1662
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1978 KZ650 B2A
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- roy-b-boy-b
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Install new battery.
You realy need to check the voltage to the coils.
Before i started using ring free i would squirt wd 40 (a lot) in the carbs as the bike was running. Your rings could be stuck.
After the bike has some time on the engine the compression will come up.
Does this bike have stock pipes and air filter?
Your valves could need adjusting. Plenty of posts on that subject.
I would do that first and eliminate that question.
If you are trying to start the bike with the starter instead of the kick start and the coil voltage is low it would be very hard to start. Try the kicker. Roy
1979 LTD Street Fighter.1977 KZ1000
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- TeK9iNe
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Make absolutely sure that EVERYTHING is completely air tight, from airbox snorkel, to exhaust tip.
Then adjust all your mixture screws to 1.5 turns from lightly seated.
Drain carbs. Fuel off.
Check the fuel bowl levels on each carb by threading some clear tube with teflon tape on the end, into the bowl drain. Then hold the tube upright against the carb and turn the fuel back on. The fuel level should be 2-3mm from the bowl gasket level for all carbs. ALL CARBS MUST HAVE SAME FUEL LEVELS. Adjust the float tangs until they are perfect!
Then... fire her up.
Your compression is pretty low.
remember... Do compression test once hot. Open throttle wide, and all plugs out, ground/disconnect coils!
Check the pipes to make sure all 4 are firing at idle, (dont burn your fingers) then pour a bottle of seafoam into your gas tank- then fill to top and ride the whole tank off.
LET US KNOW!!
Motorcycle Shop Owner/Operator
79 Kawie Z1000 LTD
81 Kawie Z1000 CSR
83 Honda VT750C A
85 Kawie GPZ900 A2
86 Zukie GS1150 EG
93 Yamie XV1100 E
Lucky to have rolled many old bikes through my doors
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- davelKZ1000
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I believe the bike has stock pipes and air fliter
The bike starts right up except when its realy cold out. It does take a while to warm up to idle. basically if i turn the idle up it will idle but as the bike gets warm it starts running at a higher rpm so i have to turn it back down.
It has a new battery and I have new plug wires for it i just have not changed them yet.
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- davelKZ1000
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This is the same side i have the popping/backfiring and the #1 cyl. cold.
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- davelKZ1000
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I cant seem to get the pictures to postHere is a pic of the left pipe. There is oil comeing out of it.
This is the same side i have the popping/backfiring and the #1 cyl. cold.
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- kenskz1000
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- kenskz1000
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