Kz650 Points Question?

Am I the only one inclined to ask why on earth you would ever convert back to points?! I mean, ok, so something breaks once in a number of years with your electronic setup, so you want to go back to the dark ages and have to constantly fiddle with points?

no still have the advancer unit the ignition jus goes around it and then the nut and bolt go through the center

If you have fire on 2 cylinders something is opening your points. With no point cam no fire at all. Why would you go from the electronic ignition to points in the first place?

oxcadillacxo wrote:

ok thats what i have i am think.. does the thick part come off? the part that the nut and bolt go through ! if not then i know thats what i have

Yes, the thick part can come off. You rotate it to full advance, then it should lift off (as long as the bolt and top nut are off).

Also beware, the larger 15 or 17mm nut is actually not a nut. It is keyed to the advancer shaft. It does not spin. The smaller 12mm bolt is what holds the assembly on. The bigger nut is to rotate the engine's crankshaft, or to hold the advancer while you remove the smaller bolt.

Make sure you note where the thick side of the points cam is pointing to. It can go back on in two positions, but it will only run if it's in the correct position.

tjk wrote:

Am I the only one inclined to ask why on earth you would ever convert back to points?! I mean, ok, so something breaks once in a number of years with your electronic setup, so you want to go back to the dark ages and have to constantly fiddle with points?

Ok i have had the bike only 3 weeks and have jus now got it to run on 2 cylinders i know that electronic ignition is 50 times better but i cant afford it at the time and i want to make sure bike is runs good enough to start buying 100-200 dollar parts... points plate with points was only 20 dollars i may get bike running good enough to ride and the she blow up completely!! so i am going with cheapest possible route now ?? biking on a budget !@

oxcadillacxo wrote:

OK i bought 1978 kz650 for 100 dollars i got it to run but only on 2 cylinders (1-4) will run 2-3 no fire! so i thought it might be the coils but i hooked the trigger wires from coils 1-4 and put them on 2-3 and 2-3 fire then 1-4 dont so i guess its a ignition problem the bike has electronic ignition....

If not already done, might take a stab at resurrecting the Dyna-S as currently fitted.
(A typical Dyna-S is pictured below.)

The Dyna-S rotor is not shown in the picture. The rotor contains a small barely visible embedded magnet.

When the magnet passes the left-hand (rear) pickup coil, its "black" signal (trigger) wire ungrounds the primary winding in whichever coil fires the #1/4 (outside) sparkplugs, which ungrounding fires the coil's secondary loop through both sparkplugs.

When the magnet passes the right-hand (forward) pickup coil, its "green" signal (trigger) wire ungrounds the primary winding in whichever coil fires the #2/3 (inside) sparkplugs, which ungrounding fires the coil's secondary loop through both sparkplugs.

As #2/3 initially had no fire, the problem might be a failed wiring connection between the right-hand (forward) pickup coil and the ignition coil, such as an internally broken "green" wire or faulty connection where the "green" wire attaches to the pickup coil.

Absent the ungrounding supposedly provided when the rotor magnet passes the pickup coil, the ignition coil won't fire, in which event the ignition coil just stays charged because its primary winding stays grounded.

But of course a faulty pickup coil might be the culprit.

Here's a picture of the Dyna-S for Z1/KZ900/KZ1000. On the KZ650, Dyna-S has a 4th blue wire to the oil pressure gauge.

If not already done, would assure continuity of the "green" wire and its attachment to the right-hand (forward) pickup coil. Could use ohmmeter to verify continuity between end of "green" wire where it attaches to the ignition coil and the other end where it attaches to the pickup coil.

Good Luck!

[Click on image to enhance view]

Kawickrice wrote:

If you have fire on 2 cylinders something is opening your points. With no point cam no fire at all.

Good point, there has to be a cam of some kind in there. The "dead" side could have a bad condenser or the point wire grounded.

You see the used 900/1000 dyna on ebay more frequent than the 650 for some reason. There was one on ebay today for $39.00 at the time I saw it. I know the 650 and 900/1000 points are physically different as are the point covers. Would any one know if there is a major difference between the dyna ignitions for the 650 verses the 900/1000. It seems one could be interchandeable as they are relatively simple contraptions. Are the rotors different? Maybe a 900/1000/ used piece would be affordable for a budget bike build. It was just a thought but now I am curious. Any way to do it cheaper is nice sometimes.

bountyhunter wrote:

Kawickrice wrote:

If you have fire on 2 cylinders something is opening your points. With no point cam no fire at all.

Good point, there has to be a cam of some kind in there. The "dead" side could have a bad condenser or the point wire grounded.

i DONT HAVE POINTS YET I AM GOING TO PUT THEM IN IT HAS BURNT UP ELECTRONIC IGNITION

ok everything is good she is running like a champ