cam timing question

I agree with keith. How do you feel about learning a little more about your KZ? I would take the head off and check the gasket. if everything looks cool i'd lift the block a bit and check the bottom rings. If u dont damage the gaskets , i would reuse them. How long have u ran it? i would run it with a fan on it for 5 min to see if it stopps smoking. if it doesnt stop then Keith is on target,and the head gasket or valve seal is leaking into the cyl. not very likely to be valve seals though.
Now that u know how,this is a 2 hour job.
as for the carbs. they need work .either the pilot or choke circuits are dirty or out of adjustment.what do the plugs look like?
it should start up RIGHT AWAY. mine started after turning over 2 times,AFTER it sat for 22 years.(i cleaned the carbs first of course)

it started right away but idled high no matter what I did... so I think this weekend will be carb adjusting and then if there's time, a reassembly of my top end.

Iddles too high.
2 things come to mind.
#1./ Running lean. Jetting ? where are the pilots screws set?(how many turns out). what carbs are they? or air leak, spray wd40 around the boots while running and listen to see if the rpm's to come down..
#2./ slides are not comming down. look into the cab and see if the slides touch the bottom. if not play with the cable and idle adjustments. u said u bench synced them allready right?

Bicycle Lee wrote:

it started right away but idled high no matter what I did... so I think this weekend will be carb adjusting and then if there's time, a reassembly of my top end.

i know you are leaning towards carbs being the culprit, but they can be dialed in later....
that smoke is your biggest issue....if indeed the gasket is leaking, the excess oil is going to keep your (new?) rings from seating and breaking in properly....if it were me, id get the block itself squared and then worry about external stuff like the carbs.....good luck and let us know how you make out.....just trying to help...keith

i have two questions for you did you put the rings in rightside up there are id marks on the top of the compression ring and also on the scrapper rings not on the oil rings also on the subject of oil control rings did you make sure the expander rings didn't overlap that could cause your problem as well one other thing the smoke does it burn your nostrils or make your eyes water alot. also how much lube did you put in the cylinders and how did you clean them after they were honed i guess that's more than two questions. i aways put the pistons in dry as extra lube can interfere with proper ring breakin.

When bench syncing carbs, idle thumb screw should be in mid-way position, thereby allowing idle to be later adjusted up or down with the thumb screw.

Also assure free throttle cable action, smoothly routed, unkinked, not frayed, properly lubed both inside cable and inside handlebar fitting, and free throttle sleeve action around handlebar, and that rubber grip is not rubbing against end of handlebar. And throttle cables properly adjusted to afford sufficient slack in throttle cables.

Carbs should quickly and easily immediately snap back to fully closed position, on their own and without any help from the pull-to-close cable.

If in doubt, disconnect throttle cables from carb at the bell-crank and proceed with idle adjustment, which avoids possible cable action issues from interferring with the idle adjustment.

Good Luck!

Keith:
One thing Larry C (who did my head work) said was to maybe get the block machined to ensure that it was flat. Since the head is now totally level, the block may need to get machined to match.

Timebomb:
I don't think the rings are my problem, but when I remove the block I will check them to make sure they are right side up and where they need to be. Also, the guys who honed my cylinders cleaned them out and I also wiped them clean when I got them home. I only applied assembly lube to them... not a crazy amount, just enough to coat. The smoke isn't acrid enough to burn your eyes or nostrils or anything, it just smells gassy and exhaust-y haha

Mark:
They are BS34 carbs and I didn't have them synched... The jetting is what WG suggested for pods and a 4-1 exhaust. My boots seem to be in good repair, but I'll try the WD40 test next time I fire it.

thanks for all the help, guys.... keep it coming!

Bicycle Lee wrote:

Keith:
One thing Larry C (who did my head work) said was to maybe get the block machined to ensure that it was flat. Since the head is now totally level, the block may need to get machined to match.

Timebomb:
I don't think the rings are my problem, but when I remove the block I will check them to make sure they are right side up and where they need to be. Also, the guys who honed my cylinders cleaned them out and I also wiped them clean when I got them home. I only applied assembly lube to them... not a crazy amount, just enough to coat. The smoke isn't acrid enough to burn your eyes or nostrils or anything, it just smells gassy and exhaust-y haha

Mark:
They are BS34 carbs and I didn't have them synched... The jetting is what WG suggested for pods and a 4-1 exhaust. My boots seem to be in good repair, but I'll try the WD40 test next time I fire it.

thanks for all the help, guys.... keep it coming!

it could be assembly lube burning off, but if you keep running it and it doesnt get better...?
larry has forgotten more than i will ever know...he has a valid point and could very well be right....i think you ll know a lot more once you get back into it....good luck....

i would asume that George bench synced them,but u can check.
take them off and look at the bottom of the slides. they should be all the same hight from the bottom. if not u set the idle screw in the mid like Patton said. then bench sync them.

u have bs34 carbs. they have a diaphram.i have never worked on this type. i will let someone else fill this in. or if u have a manual that covers them? sorry ,not my area of expertise. i limited to slide carbs.
If u meed a manual pm me your email addy and i will send u 1.

I actually didn't have George work on them. He just told me what my jetting should be for pods and 4-1 and the elevation I live at.
My brother adjusted my floats today so after we sort out this leaky head gasket thing we'll give her another go. One thing it COULD be is that we used RTV on the head gasket and afterwards I read that you aren't supposed to do that. It could have created a gap large enough for oil to escape. So step one for this weekend is tear it down to the block and get that gasket situated correctly.
Once the oil leak is cured I can tinker with the carbs til they're dialed... I just don't really want to run the motor if the head is still leaking....

alright... carbs are cleaned and adjusted.... gonna tear down the top end again tomorrow and work on that gasket.... I'll let you guys know what happens... wish me luck!!!! haha

Bicycle Lee wrote:

alright... carbs are cleaned and adjusted.... gonna tear down the top end again tomorrow and work on that gasket.... I'll let you guys know what happens... wish me luck!!!! haha

let us know what happens and what ya find....good luck man.......keith