1979 MKii No workie...

Sparking was checked on cylinder 3 and 2. Saw a bright purple spark.

Should I be able to use the timing light with cylinders 2 and 3?

Also, I think that I am going to put in new spark plugs to set the timing.

Should I just set the timing as stock or is it better to run a bit advanced or retarded?

Thanks
Jason

If 1/4 lefthand Dyna module is correctly timed, righthand module is probably very close already, and may also be verified with timing light.

At idle rpm, 1/4 F mark should align with permanent case mark, as should 2/3 F mark. Ignore the T mark.

Good Luck!

I checked my advancer and it appears there is only a T-mark on the opposite side where I feel as though the 2/3 F mark should be. Any reason for this?

Basically on one side of the advancer it says T, then F, then the two " marks like that for full advance.

On the other half of the advancer it just has a T.

Jason

In this photo, reading from left to right, the "T" and the "I" are TDC (top dead center) references to be ignored when setting the ignition timing.

Next is the letter "F" followed by an "I" and a "1-4" and a "II".

The "I" on the right side of the "F" is the low rpm timing mark which is supposed to be aligned with the permanent mark on the engine case at idle rpm for cylinders #1 and #4.

Further to the right is a "II" which is supposed to align with the permanent mark on the engine case at higher rpm. Use the "II" to verify operation of the advancer unit, but not in setting the timing. Use the "I" at low idle rpm to set the timing.

Similar markings should exist on the other end of the advancer for timing cylinders #2 and #3.

I would start by positioning the round Dyna-S back plate onto the engine by centering the three mounting screws in the elongated holes. This is often pretty close. Then slightly loosen the three screws and rotate the entire back plate withing the elongated holes to better align the "I" at idle rpm. And don't mess with the tiny allen screws which allow slight module movement for ultra fine tuning, at least for now.

If cylinders #1-4 are timed correctly, then cylinders #2-3 will probably already be close enough, so don't move the backing plate again.

Good Luck!

[click on image to enlarge view]



WITH THANKS TO THE MEMBER WHO POSTED THIS PHOTO IN AN EARLIER THREAD!

You will need to lubricate any pivoting or rotating areas including where the springs attach. I use a light oil, some people use a dab of grease. But anthing to make the ignition advancer work is better than no lubrication.

I can get the mark to line up for cylinders 1-4, but my advancer unit does not have the marks on the bottom for cylinders 2-3. How could I ever fine tune the system without those marks?

I will take a look at it tonight.

MFolks, thanks for the heads up, but I did already lube everything in the system including the springs. Good Tip!

I will keep you guys posted. Thanks again so much for the help.

Jason

Well, the Dyna S was the ticket for sure. The bike starts at the first stroke of the electric starter or EVEN the kick starter.

However...I did change the plugs and the 2 and 3 plugs had oil on them. How to fix that?

Also, I did replace the valve cover gasket because I was getting oil that was leaking out the front over the tach cable. I replaced it with a new gasket and it seems to be doing well.

Let me know your thoughts.

Monk

Have you done a leakdown test? Oil fouling could be several things,like worn valve guides,valve stem seals getting dry and cracked, or oil control rings wearing.

How many miles on the engine, and what weight oil do you use? And have you checked valve clearances recently?

No leakdown test just yet. I did check the valve clearances and they all fell within spec.

I will have to double check the oil, but when I first got the bike I changed and could have sworn I followed the manual. I will check.