1979 MKii No workie...

I just want to confirm that it is not this...

www.z1enterprises.com/detail.aspx?ID=368

But, instead you mean this...

www.z1enterprises.com/detail.aspx?ID=200

Thanks for the help.

Before you spend too much on new ignition parts, try to determine the exact cause. Testing with the multi-meter should work if you follow the manual. A used igniter is way cheaper than a new dyna - but if you don't mind spending the money they are nice to have. The good thing is that you already have an electronic ignition and good dyna coils, so they will work great if you can find the actual problem.

Have you checked lately for spark at the plugs?

The stock bike with electronic ignition and igniter came from the factory with coils having resistance of about 1.5 ohms (1.2 -1.9).

The Dyna green coils have resistance of about 3 ohms. Perhaps the stock ignition and igniter designed for the stock 1.5 ohm coils can't handle the 3 ohm Dyna coils.

When changing the stock electronic ignition to a Dyna-S electronic ignition and green Dyna 3 ohm coils, the igniter is no longer used.

Dyna also makes 1.5 ohm coils. But since the green 3 ohm Dynas are already in place, it would seem logical to either (1) change to the Dyna-S ignition (and skip the igniter) OR (2) replace the existing 3 ohm coils with 1.5 ohm coils while keeping both the stock ignition and igniter in place.

Good Luck!

Patton wrote:

The stock bike with electronic ignition and igniter came from the factory with coils having resistance of about 1.5 ohms (1.2 -1.9).

The Dyna green coils have resistance of about 3 ohms. Perhaps the stock ignition and igniter designed for the stock 1.5 ohm coils can't handle the 3 ohm Dyna coils.

When changing the stock electronic ignition to a Dyna-S electronic ignition and green Dyna 3 ohm coils, the igniter is no longer used.

Dyna also makes 1.5 ohm coils. But since the green 3 ohm Dynas are already in place, it would seem logical to either (1) change to the Dyna-S ignition (and skip the igniter) OR (2) replace the existing 3 ohm coils with 1.5 ohm coils while keeping both the stock ignition and igniter in place.

Good Luck!

Very good point - the fix for the 3 ohm coils is to remove the factor in-line resistor, which has been done. The coils should be great the way they are, as long as they are not defective. I'm wondering if he currently has spark? He didn't then he did, then he didn't, then he did...

The bike has not started since the last I left this topic. I have tried to start a number of times with no success. I have re-checked all of the electrical components and they check out fine according to the manual which is the same as all the very helpful pictures from Patton.

I am thinking the same as the 3.0 ohm coils are messing with the igniter or the igniter cannot support the coils. I am thinking the dyna s would be a nice upgrade either way, right? Fro $120 that is not too much to get this beast up and running.

jason

monkonmonk wrote:

The bike has not started since the last I left this topic. I have tried to start a number of times with no success. I have re-checked all of the electrical components and they check out fine according to the manual which is the same as all the very helpful pictures from Patton.

I am thinking the same as the 3.0 ohm coils are messing with the igniter or the igniter cannot support the coils. I am thinking the dyna s would be a nice upgrade either way, right? Fro $120 that is not too much to get this beast up and running.

jason

The 3-ohm coils are definitely not the problem alone. I have run them with the stock igniter for many, many years. That's the hot set up! (with the resistor removed). Now, there is certainly a chance that the coils are bad, and in that case a new ignition won't help. On the other hand, it's more likely that you have a bad igniter or pick up coils and the new ignition would fix that. Like you said, it's definitely a nice upgrade anyway, so you might want to try it out. Keep us posted on your progress and good luck!

Then, I just want to confirm that the Dyna S is what I want and not the Dyna 2000 kit? Correct???

monkonmonk wrote:

Then, I just want to confirm that the Dyna S is what I want and not the Dyna 2000 kit? Correct???

Yes, the Dyna-S. Good Luck!

Ordered. Thanks.

Alright, so I got the Dyna S hooked up and it went pretty smoothly. I started the bike and surprisingly it fired to life and I thought, this is it!

But, I hooked up the timing light to get the 1-4 cylinders timed correctly. But, when I went to the 2-3 cylinders I got nothing. I should be able to use the timing light on the 2-3 cylinders, right? It would idle, but not smoothly.

Also, I tried switching the power leads for the cylinders and all I got was a bunch of backfiring.

Anyway, now that I can get it to idle to confirm the coils work properly? Or, should I just replace them with all the trouble I have been having?

Thoughts would be great.

Jason

Looking at the photo's I noticed some corroded connections in the electrical connectors. Corrosion means lower current flow due to resistance. Go to a local welding supply and buy the tip cleaners welders use on their torches.The tip cleaner is a set of small files perfect for getting into connectors.

On the way back home stop at a hardware store and buy a small brass bristle brush and at an electronic store like radio shack buy a can of electrical contact cleaner(not WD-40, don't ask me how I know)a good brand is made by Caig Labs in San Diego www.de-oxit.com .

When going to work on the bike again disconnect and scrub with the tools I described each electrical connection(the bullet connectors,male and female and the square and rectangular connectors) disconnect the ground cable from the battery and clean where it connects to the frame/engine.

The battery positive (red) connection should also be scrubed where it goes to the starter solenoid.

Each electrical connection (and don't forget the switches on the handle bars) will need cleaning followed up with a spritz of contact cleaner/preservative including the fuses and fuse clips.

This will probably help a great deal in getting the bike to run. Some times problems like this can be traced to electrical problems instead of a carb.adjustment. All electrical contacts must be bright and with no corrosion or thing don't work well or are intermittant.

With plugs removed, what sparking is seen?