1979 MKii No workie...

I think all of monkonmonks original problems were due to the fact that he only had 1 cylinder running. He thought one cylinder was hot, but the other 3 were actually cold. I agree with a lot of what you are saying but we have to get spark on all 4 cylinders before we can mess with anything else. I'm guessing that what he originally thought were carb problems were also caused from the ignition. I realize that we didn't need to do wired george's coil mod, but since monkonmonks coil voltage was only 9 volts, it made sense to do it. All of those symptoms he first reported were caused by running on one cylinder - not emmisions or anything else. As far as the coil mod goes, it shouldn't cost more than $10, and the coils were already on the bike, so we're not "trying to sell everyone new and expensive coil and relay gadgets". I can also say for sure that your bike will not do over 100 mph when running on one cylinder - that's the one and only problem here

Monkonmonk -
Did you ever go through all of your igniter tests? If that's good then there must be a bad wire/connection somewhere since your ignition coils and pick up coils tested good. There is also a chance that the rotor is not triggering the pick up coils, but that's something we mentioned before and I'm not sure how to test that. Do you have the plug grounded when testing for spark? Let's make sure on these items before we mess with anything else. I really think if we can get spark of all 4 that thing is going to run great!

By the way, you don't have a rev limiter or anything else added, do you? I assume we are dealing with a factory stock ignition here with the exception of aftermarket dyna coils.

Could hotwire battery positive to coil inputs,
thereby assuring full battery voltage to coils.

Pull both red/yellow coil wires out of the
dual connector and clip the ends together
onto the hotwire. Clip other end of hotwire
to positive battery terminal.

The hotwire temporarily replaces the bike's
old wiring in supplying battery voltage to coils.

This hotwiring is the same as switching the
ignition to the ON position, so don't leave
the hotwire connected for an extended time.

If not already done, assure negative battery
cable has a good solid ground where it attaches
to the engine or frame.

Good Luck!

Well guys, I appreciate all the "activity" and "friendly" banter to help solve my problem. I will go through the Igniter checks again tonight and make sure I confirm everything that we have done thus far.

I am really hoping to get this thing running soon because all the mess has kept my garage occupied for some time now. Haha!

Thanks again. I will update you soon.
Jason

Alright, so this is going to sound lame, but I cleaned the connector for the igniter after checking everything we had done before and the bike roared to life....

But, unfortunately I am still getting a bit of a stumble. The bike still seems to billow white smoke while running. Once I turn the bike off after I was so surprised it was running, it still lets white smoke coming from the exhaust. The exhaust smells like unburnt fuel, but I am not sure.

What could that be? I am going to run to work and borrow a temp gun to check the exhaust pipes as they all feel warm. The throttle was responsive and idled at about 900rpms or so after I adjusted it down some.

After I check the exhaust temps, what else is there to investigate?

Actually, I am just really impressed with you guys as without your help I would have not gotten this far.

Thank you, thank you, thank you. Now, can I get rid of the smoke as my wife would not appreciate the fact that every time I ride I end up smelling like I do, haha.

Jason

I'm glad it's running! Depending on how long you let it run, it might just be excess fuel burning off that's causing the smoke. It you were running it on one cylinder for a while, plus trying to start it afterward, there will be fuel built up in the other 3 cylinders. It may have fouled your plugs too. Take it for a ride if you can and see if it clears up. If not, let us know and we'll all offer plenty of really good advice!!:laugh:

You should be able to tell really easily if all 4 cylinders are firing. If you have to touch the exhaust as quickly as humanly possible to keep from getting burned, it running on that cylinder. If not, that cylinder is not running. They will all get a little warm, but if it's running there won't be any question. It's usually pretty easy to tell by the sound of the engine too.

Keep us posted on your progress.

If you dont mind Id like to ask a question myself in regards to the resistor.

Ive got a police 1000 and it has that exact same resistor on it. And I put three ohm coils on it yesterday. I left the resistor on. As i wasnt sure how to remove it properly. Its all stock but the coils. So to remove it do I just unplug the two wires and splice them together?


Thanks.

Bullitt, I followed the instructions on wgcarbs.com under the tech section for the relay mod. Worked exactly as described.

Alright guys, here is where I am at. I went for a "ride" today. The reason I put it in quotes is due to the issues I am going to describe later.

I fired the bike up and it was smoking just like earlier, but per your alls instructions I thought I would give it a shot. So, I threw all my gear on and headed out.

the bike was running great. Then I made my first turn to the right after coming almost to a stop and the bike would not accelerate, then it died.

I got it going again and it dies a few roads later. Then, I determined I ran out of gas. I got more gas delivered to me and kept riding, but this time it died about 30yards later.

The starter was not turning over. Sounded like the battery was dead. I tried to kick start the bike, but nothing.

I had someone come pick me and the bike up and then came home. As soon as I got it out of his truck, I checked the battery. 11.6V. The starter still did not want to turn over. Sounded like the batter was dead.

I tried to kick start it and on the second try with very little effort the bike started and seemed to run fine. I did also notice that when I would rev the engine the rpms would hang for a second or so then drop back down.

Also, I looked at the #3 and the #4 spark plugs and they were sooty with the metal prong being white.

Thoughts? Ideas? I want this bike to be reliable and able to ride a longer distance than 10min.

Thanks again.
Jason

Might be fuel starvation due to a clogged vent in the fuel tank cap. Symptoms are usually worse at lower fuel levels inside tank. Test by running with fuel cap open.

Or might possibly be a clogged petcock filter screen, or a clogged in-line fuel filter. Perhaps from suspended grit or crud inside the tank hovering about the petcock intake tube screens.

What sometimes happens is that fuel supply from the tank is insufficient for whatever reason and causes the bike to "run out of gas" when the float bowls get empty. While pulled over trying to figure things out, enough fuel gradually dribbles on down to refill the float bowls, which then allows the bike to again crank and run for a short distance until again running out of gas.

Good Luck!

Patton wrote:

Might be fuel starvation due to a clogged vent in the fuel tank cap. Symptoms are usually worse at lower fuel levels inside tank. Test by running with fuel cap open.

Or might possibly be a clogged petcock filter screen, or a clogged in-line fuel filter. Perhaps from suspended grit or crud inside the tank hovering about the petcock intake tube screens.

What sometimes happens is that fuel supply from the tank is insufficient for whatever reason and causes the bike to "run out of gas" when the float bowls get empty. While pulled over trying to figure things out, enough fuel gradually dribbles on down to refill the float bowls, which then allows the bike to again crank and run for a short distance until again running out of gas.

Good Luck!

I've had that exact thing happen with my fuel vent. The bike would die - I would pull over and open the tank to check for gas - then it would run. Couldn't figure it out but eventually realized it was a clogged vent on the gas cap. It's worth a try to just ride it with the cap slightly open.

Did your bike ever quit smoking?

Bullitt03737 wrote:

If you dont mind Id like to ask a question myself in regards to the resistor.

Ive got a police 1000 and it has that exact same resistor on it. And I put three ohm coils on it yesterday. I left the resistor on. As i wasnt sure how to remove it properly. Its all stock but the coils. So to remove it do I just unplug the two wires and splice them together?


Thanks.

Yes, that'll do it! You shouldn't need the resistor with after market coils.

Yep, the smoking stopped. I am going to take a good look at the vent in the cap to see if I can't clean that up a bit. Any ideas? Is there a "How-to" somewhere?

I will look into it tonight.

Jason