1979 MKii No workie...

If not already done, would test continuity
of wires from electronic ignition modules
to the igniter. Am thinking possibility
of an intermittant disconnect due to a
frayed internal wire (underneath normal
appearing insulation). Could cause
intermittant failure of signal from
ignition module to the igniter.
While the outside appearance of the
wire may look perfectly okay, the inside
wire might be frayed or broken underneath
the insulation. May use an ohmmeter to
do this test, which is basically to
assure integrity of the inside wire.

While doing the test, manipulate the wires
and wiggle them all around to see if the
ohmmeter jumps, which would indicate an
intermittant connection. And which could
result in intermittent signal to the igniter.

Would also double-check integrity of the
connectors in the wiring between ignition
modules and into the igniter. While
investigating the problem of intermittant
spark showing at the plug tips, would
wiggle the connector at the igniter
and wiggle the wires where they run into
and out of the connector, and spray WD40
into the connector.

The on-again-off-again spark sounds like
a fault in the wiring or a connector.
But maybe there is an internal defect in
the igniter itself causing the problem.
Others can offer better advice about how
to test the igniter. And FSM should give
procedure and ohm checks for testing the
igniter. (Will try to find and post a copy
from the FSM).

Good Luck!

Here's the FSM text.
(still working on tables and pics :S ).


Pick-up Coil Inspection

Connect the multimeter to the pick-up coil leads to
measure the coil resistance as shown in Table N54.

Table N54 Pickup Coil Resistance--
Between Black and Blue leads @ 360-540 ohms.
Between Yellow and Red leads @ 360-540 ohms.

If there is more resistance than shown in the table,
the coil has an open lead and must be replaced. Much
less than this resistance means the coil is shorted, and
must be replaced.

Using the highest resistance range of the multimeter,
measure the resistance between the pick-up coil leads
and chassis ground. Any meter reading less than infinity
(00) indicates a short, necessitating replacement
of the pick-up coil assembly.

Visually inspect the pick-up coil assembly. If the permanent
magnets and coils are damaged, replace the
pick-up coil assembly.

5. Ignition System Wiring Check

Reconnect all leads and connectors which were disconnected.

Connect the multimeter to the IC igniter leads as
shown inTable N56, turn on the ignition switch, and
note the meter readings. Measure the lead voltages
with the engine stopped.

6. IC Igniter Out of Circuit Test

Turn off the ignition switch, and disconnect all the
IC igniter leadsand connector.

Connect the multimeter as shown in Table N57 to
check the internal resistanceof the igniter.

Once upon a time . . . (stupid computer :lol: )

monkonmonk wrote:

...

....

In reviewing the pics, am again thinking about the
wiring, and realize much has already been well-covered.
But believing it won't hurt to re-hash the basics.

Igniter
Eight wires connect to the igniter:
The four wires from the two pickup modules;
Ground wire (your orange) to black/yellow;
Wire with switched battery voltage (from starter button);
Wire to a primary terminal on the left coil;
Wire to a primary terminal on the right coil.

Coils
Wire with switched battery voltage connects
to a primary terminal on the left coil;
Wire with switched battery voltage connects
to a primary terminal on the right coil.
These two wires originally came from a dual
connector out of the resistor. But since the
resistor is no longer being used, these two
wires may now be fed from the same switched
battery voltage wire connected to the igniter
(there may be dual connector on a battery
voltage wire from the starter button).
Or via the "wg coil mod."

Items of concern from the pics

Igniter -- am suspicious of the blue
plastic crimp connector, and would re-splice
that joint to be sure of the connection.
Also, the disconnected connector-half under
the master cylinder reservoir appears broken
and in poor condition. Am guessing it receives
the four wires from the pickup modules via
another connector-half. It is important for
this to be a good sound connection whereby
the signals from the pickups are transmitted to
the igniter (and from the igniter to the coils).

Coil connections -- each primary terminal
is supposed to have only one wire attached to it
(difficult to see in the pic).

Plug wires and caps
Hope they are solid metal core plug wires
(not resistor style wires, which may also
have a shorter life span).
Would assure good connections of wires into coils
(especially the metal clips on end of wires where
pushed into coil, if so equipped).
Hope the caps provide direct connections from wires
to plugs (not resistor caps which sometimes go bad).
Would assure good connections of wires into caps.
Would assure good connections of caps onto the plugs.
If any doubt, would consider brand-new Dyna plug
wires from Z1E, which are provided with caps
already attached, and are relatively inexpensive.

If not already done, wouldn't hurt to clean
surfaces of the timing rotor and pickup coils.

If the pickup coils are failing, perhaps a
DynaS electronic ignition might be considered
as replacement for the oem system. Other members
will be able to better advise as to whether DynaS
would be a feasible option, and whether the
igniter is even necessary with Dyna S.

Good Luck!

Addendum -- as shown by loudhvx's post in another
thread, the igniter isn't used with DynaS, :

loudhvx wrote:

Yes, you can run replacement wires from
the DYna S to the coils for Green and Black.
The old green and black from the coils went
to the factory igniter which is now gone,
so you can just unplug them and tape them
off somewhere in case you go back to factory later.

Well, I have check all of the above except for replacing components. Currently, I cannot get the bike to start again at all.

I am really getting frustrated with this whole process. I just want to make sure coils are the problem before I drop $150 on new ones. And the same goes for the igniter as well.

As opposed to keep chomping at the bit, anyone know w good KZ mechanic in the Columbus area or want a 79KZ in good shape. Does not run!!!

Jason

Try Bruce Sauer at Power By Sauer in Columbus for help
with your Kawasaki.
614-367-BIKE or www.pwrbysauer@aol.com.
If he can't fix your MKll ,nobody can....

monkonmonk wrote:

Well, I have check all of the above except for replacing components. Currently, I cannot get the bike to start again at all.

I am really getting frustrated with this whole process. I just want to make sure coils are the problem before I drop $150 on new ones. And the same goes for the igniter as well.

As opposed to keep chomping at the bit, anyone know w good KZ mechanic in the Columbus area or want a 79KZ in good shape. Does not run!!!

Jason

SOLD! Check your PM

Alright, I am going to give this one more shot. What can I get that eliminates the igniter?

If nothing, does anyone have a good lead on one that is not $300 like a new one.

Jason

Since those coils are aftermarket, you might want to make the ohms rating is compatible with the factory ignition system.Whats up with the orange wire coming from the IC igniter?
The timing plate being "modified" might be a problem too.The factory had the plate set in one position for a reason.It could be set now too advanced,trying to compensate for another problem.
Just some ideas,good luck with it.

Yeah take the igniter,timing plate and all that stuff off, and replace it with the Dyna S ignition for the KZ.Works better anyway. Or get a used igniter and hope it works,off ebay.