Uh oh, losing power above 5K

the resistance was strange because when the red/yello and green wires were hooked up to the back of that coil it gave a reading of .8 ohms. When I disconnected the wires from the bike and tested the poles on the coil, it measured 3.0 ohms like it should have.

i have new points and new condenser and the points are gapped correctly, it may be a wire, im going to have to trace it through. i should have just got the dyna ignition which would have eliminated the question on points and condenser

WG you are right in your understanding, i did switch the coils and the problem remained that 2 and 3 werent firing.

UPDATE

I just tested voltage on the coils. Turning the key on, and measuring voltage on the poles of the coils with a multimeter

On the coil producing spark I had a volt or 2 less than the battery had. This was on both poles of the coil. On the coil that wasnt firing, one pole had that same voltage, while the second pole only had about .4 volts going to it. It was the pole in which the green wire was connected.

What does this mean and what could possibly be wrong? Thank you

freebyrd24 wrote:

... bike has has new points, new condenser, new plugs, new wires ....

New PLUG wires? Or is other "new" wiring involved?

Good Luck!

plug wires, no new wiring haha

Another check list --
Battery up to snuff, fully charged, holding charge, and receiving charge. Terminals clean and tight. Good solid ground from negative terminal to engine/frame.

With more questions --
What is situation with sparkplug caps (boots)? Old original hard plastic resistor style? Too much resistance?
Leaking voltage? Poor connection to plug wire (could trim plug wire and re-attach cap for better connection)? Poor connection between cap and top of plug?

Perhaps new plug wires were solid core Dyna, which come already equipped with new caps attached in place (usually resolves any previous problems with old worn-out or otherwise defective caps).

Still pondering.

freebyrd24 wrote:

... On the coil producing spark I had a volt or 2 less than the battery had. This was on both poles of the coil....

For testing purposes, could finesse the question of whether full battery voltage is reaching the coils by temporarily connecting a wire from the positive battery terminal directly to the coil primary (or to wire closest to coil primary), which will assure full battery voltage is reaching coil. Don't leave it sitting connected like this, because it's the same as leaving the ignition switch turned on.

Keep the faith!

ill try it with the direct power and see what happens

the plugs are not the stock kind that you can disconnect the plug caps from. The PO put in accel coils and wires which have been on the bike since I got it for years. I had originally thought it may be wires, thats why i have brand new wires! hahaha

i just do not get why only one side of one coil is not recieving full voltage

freebyrd24 wrote:

... put it to red line in first and second and third, and shifting to 4th, it stayed at 7k and wouldn't accelerate... wouldn't accelerate well after 5K... not running on all 4 cylinders after 5K, or under any real load... up to 4K no problem nice and smooth. Definately on all 4 cylinders and running smooth. This bike has been fast and reliable for years now with me. It was in great running condition and never had a problem with it... It was just after that moment of hard accelerating that its acting up....

I consider it important in diagnosing this problem that the immediate on-set resulted from hard acceleration, while pre-existing performance was just fine.

Am still unable to pin-point a direct reason underlying immediate on-set of the problem precipitated only by hard acceleration.

If indeed an electrical failure of some kind, logic suggests something came loose. Could be mistaken, but to me hard acceleration alone seems an improbable reason for coil malfunction.

Meanwhile, my thought processes continue moving at their usual glacial speed. :laugh:

Thats ok, my glacier will never catch yours

i had the exact problem , losing power above 5k, I had one of the male/female wires not pluged in all the way on one of the coils. Snapped it in and secured with tape and zipped tied to the frame and it runs fine now.

freebyrd24 wrote:

WG you are right in your understanding, i did switch the coils and the problem remained that 2 and 3 werent firing.

That's why I asked if there were two sets of points: switching coils and the problem remains on the same side means it has to be the points and/or wiring on that side.

exactly. everything is pointing that direction but the wiring is good between points and coil. it has continuity from the points to the coil. ill have to keep probing