Re-Installing Camshafts Problem

You need to remove the tensioner because doing so will give you an inch (or more) additional 'slack' in the chain.

duplicate post, sorry.

Post edited by: FloridaBiker, at: 2008/01/15 08:27

When you reinstall the cams there should be a certain number of links between the cam sprockets. I beleive it is 36 but I'm not sure and I don't have the manuall in front of me.

Thanks for the help guys. I was hoping that I wouldn't have to remove the tensioner since I have to take the carbs off in order to do so.

On my bike you have to have the "IN" line on the intake cam pointing between the 45th and 46th pins.

Well, into the garage to expand the project! :laugh:

If you locked the cam tensioner before taking off the cam cover, and the chain was on the crank sprocket like it's supposed to be, then you would have slack in the chain. The 750 fours have a cam chain guide in the top of the cam cover that pushes the cam chain down, so if you lock the tensioner there will be slack when you remove the cover.

So:
(1) The cam chain tensioner wasn't locked and extended, thus taking up all the slack, or:

(2) The cam chain is not in place on the crank sprocket.

Normally, when you remove the cam cover on a 750 four, one of the cams will move due to valve spring pressure causing it to rotate, and it seems to always take the slack out between the cams.

Personally, I always remove the tensioner prior to removing the cam cover, makes it easier to put the cam cover back on.

steell wrote:

The 750 fours have a cam chain guide in the top of the cam cover that pushes the cam chain down, so if you lock the tensioner there will be slack when you remove the cover.

(2) The cam chain is not in place on the crank sprocket.

Normally, when you remove the cam cover on a 750 four, one of the cams will move due to valve spring pressure causing it to rotate, and it seems to always take the

Well, I guess I locked it properly because there was slack in the chain when I took the cover off initially.

However, if the chain isn't on the crank sprocket properly, is there a way to get it back on?

Post edited by: Little B, at: 2008/01/14 17:56

Post edited by: Little B, at: 2008/01/14 17:57

You can tell real easily if the chain is on. Just pull up on your camchain and turn the engine over clockwise with your 17mm hex on the ignition end of the crankshaft. The chain should turn smoothly with the crank. After turning, just turn back counterclockwise till your marks are back where they were. The chain really can't fall off the crankshaft, but it can kink. If the chain doesn't turn with the crank, lower it and raise it up a few times while turning the crankshaft until it does. If you find your chain is turning, then you don't have much more in options other than the tensioner didn't lock like you wanted it to.

I had this same problem in my rebuild. cam chain tensioner out, and the chain seemed shorter to the point where I couldn't get both cams in their seats. I assumed the cam chain fell off of the crank sprocket, so to test this I grabbed a 17mm socket and turned the motor over, and the chain turned with it. I then laid the cams back in the motor, and the extra slack had freed up and the cams sat nicely. Hope this helps, simple try before you do something major.

Thanks for the help Ron & jordan.

I wound up taking the tensioner off and the camshafts fit right in there w/o issue.

Now I have a potential timing issue I need help with. :blush:

The instructions are as follows: "With the crankshaft positioned so t#1 and #4 pistons are at TDC, check that the timing marks on the exhaust and inlet camshaft sprockets are aligned with the cylinder head surface. When I do that, this is what I get:

Exhaust side the Z7EX mark line is what is supposed to be aligned.



On the intake side, the IN mark line is supposed to be aligned.



As you can see, they are a bit off. My question is, is this normal or do I need to make an adjustment somewhere? If I continue turning the crankshaft around until those marks are exactly flush with the cylinder head surface, the timing mark is about 1/4" further clockwise from the proper position.

Note: The IN line is pointing in between the 45th and 46th pin as the manual says to do.

The other possible problem I have is that when I continue to turn the crank clockwise, there is a loud 'click' release sound and the cam chain at top gets a huge sag in it. It looks like this:





I notice that if I put pressure on where the tensioner will be it doesn't do it as bad but I still feel the chain 'release' as it goes around. Is that normal? If so, why does it do that?

Any comments on my last post/pics? I'd hate to put it all back together and then find out there is a problem. :whistle:

Wait for others to chime in as it's been quite a while since I had a hyvo chain motorcycle. My opinion is align the correct arrow on the exhaust cam first, then count your teeth back to put the intake in the correct position. The reason I say this is the exhaust cam chain runs directly down to the crank with no tensioners to worry about. So in this case it looks to me like your exhaust should be advanced one tooth more than it is now and follow by advancing the intake one tooth too. When you rotate the engine without the tensioner, you very well may get spots in rotation where the cams jump quickly. Use your hand as a makeshift top tensioner, pushing down on the chain as you turn the engine.

I agree with Ron. With the 1/4 at TDC, first install your exhaust cam with the alignment arrow facing directly forward at the head mating surface. From the photo, it looks like you are one tooth off as the arrow appear to be pointing slightly upward.

Once your exhaust cam is in position, install the intake cam with the alignment arrow facing directly backward at the rear head mating surface. Then count the pins starting with the pin above the exhaust mark as #1. Count out the specified number of pins and make sure the intake mark is aligned in the proper location.

Then count again. Then one more time, just to be sure.

Next, install the cam caps and bolt them down. In my experience, at this point, there will be some slack in the chain between the cams. With a wrench (or socket), slowly turn the engine over from the ignition side. Use your hand pushing down on the chain between the cams to keep tension on the chain so it doesn't jump a tooth. When you come back around to 1/4 TDC, the chain should be taut between the cams. The timing marks should now both line up with the mating surface, front and back. You can then reinstall the tensioner.

And recount the pins ONE MORE TIME.