My 650 CSR project

gd4now wrote:

I would think you can get the brass port back in to the carb either as Tex indicates or use some fuel proof RTV or the like. Wanted to say the stock petcocks for the H models are all vacuum operated and have 2 ports on them. One for the fuel to get to the carbs, and one to provide vacuum to the petcock to allow fuel to flow. I have added a pic of a set of vm24 carbs with an accel pump and a vacuum port on #2.
 
 

Great picture, thanks! Helps me understand what I have here. 

TexasKZ wrote:

That is a fairly common problem. Last time it happened to me, I knurled up the brass tube with a pair of pliers and carefully pressed it back into the petcock. Worked a treat.

I've knurled it just by trying to get it out of the hose to which it has bonded. I think I will use a bit of Seal All on it when I put it back in.

In other project news, I made my way under the cam covers and checked clearances. Everything checked out within spec, but being my first time on this engine I am going to check them again tomorrow to make sure I did it right.

Moving forward if hoses are "really tight" you are better off splitting them with a sharp knife and then trimming back the end of the hose before re-fitting

Wookie58 wrote:

Moving forward if hoses are "really tight" you are better off splitting them with a sharp knife and then trimming back the end of the hose before re-fitting

 

I was being slightly sarcastic, which you have to watch out for with me. I did start to scratch it up a little when I first tried to pull it out so I stopped and cut it out.

FSM specs call for .08 to .18 clearance

Following the FSM 4-step directions my valve #s this morning are, from I1 to E4

Intake
.10
.10
.10
.10
Exhaust
.18 (tight so maybe .17?)
.18  (same ""   "")
.15
.15

I will double check these but they seem good to go. A more experienced person might want more clearance on the intake but I am not that person, yet. I'd hate to cause trouble for myself when .10 is "good enuff"






 

I buttoned up the valve covers and ran some more evaporust through the gas tank, flushed it with isopropyl and then filled it up. Then I discovered the petcock was leaking in the ON position, but only very little. I let it sit over the weekend thinking maybe it would stop, and it seemed to, although when i reinstalled the brass port a little came out. Not sure if that was just pooled in the port hole, or if tapping it cause the petcock to leak a little. At any rate it was not dripping and I have waited too long for the ignition test, so I proceeded with the understanding I may need to keep a close eye on it.

I wanted to put an inline filter in, but the only ones the auto parts store had were either huge or had 1/4" ports. I wasn't sure if the 1/4 would starve the carbs (its the same filter I have on my 305), so I decided to go without for now since I assume the carbs will be torn apart soon.

Jwfels sent me a new-to-me ON switch and suggested I unplug the headlight for test starting, which was a great idea but turned out to be unnecessary. I shot some starting fluid in, switched to prime, upped the choke and it fired right up. Instantly! And kept running. I wasn't prepared for that, I really thought it would be a long road before it started. Whats more, it sounded great, and purred like 65 kittens. I only ran it for a couple minutes but will go back and run it longer and try to see and hear some more. Still a long way from the road but now I have hope that I might ride before snowfall. Woohoo!


EDIT: ran it some more and noticed #4 exhaust is not getting very hot at all. Checked the spark and it looks good, and there's gas on the plug, but something is clearly not right. I'm not sure its firing at all.

Hi, try Golan Products in the US, excellent smaller filters, fitted one to my 650, excellent products and spares available.
Rich.
golanproducts.com/product/compact-fuel-f...clear-50-312b-a-clr/

Here is a photo showing the filter in place, easier to visualise scale:)
 

kimchella wrote:

Hi, try Golan Products in the US, excellent smaller filters, fitted one to my 650, excellent products and spares available.
Rich.
golanproducts.com/product/compact-fuel-f...clear-50-312b-a-clr/

 

Thanks for the filter link kimchella, I will check it out.

A slight loosening of the #4 air screw to make it the same as the others leaned it up and seems to have solved my cold spot. All are at roughly 1.25 turns now.

Oh I also did the clean air mod while doing the valve clearances, removed the unneeded hoses, connected the air suction thingies and capped the airbox and vacuum holes. Still need to replace caliper, bars, master cylinder and drivetrain, front tire (at least) and perhaps more.
 

Not as nice as the Golan, but work well. It is 1/4 inch, but they used to make 5/16, so theat size may be available elsewhere.

www.denniskirk.com/moose/fuel-filter-070...88701.prd/188701.sku

Evidently they are still out there...

www.xlmotorcycleparts.com/products/90-de...ine-fuel-filter-5-16

Nice, that's basically the 5/16 version of what I use on my 305.

So is there a proven "middle of the road" master cylinder brand or seller option for this bike? I don't want the cheapest of cheap $25 version (unless it just works) or the $100++ option if there is a nice $50 version that "just works"

Took it outside today so I could let it run a little longer than I care to in my attached garage.  After a few minutes it started to smoke a bit, not what I would call "a lot" but definitely noticeable out of both sides. I let it run maybe 5-7 minutes. I did have the grungy old air filter in it at the time so maybe I will repeat part of the test tomorrow without it. New filter is on the way.

I figured it might not do any good but it wouldn't hurt to run the compression again while it was hot, and there wasn't much change but it did even out a bit. All cylinders were till low but all were at about 90 psi.  3 of the 4 the brand new BR7ES plugs were already fouled from the short 10-12 minutes this has run in my possession. Left to right, 1-2-3-4 below

 

1-2-3 below

 

The #4 may not have been firing until today's test which may or may not explain its better condition. It looks to me like 2 and 3 are the worst, so maybe coil is part of the issue?  If you think I'm hoping to avoid a carb teardown before winter (which is 6 weeks away) you are right, lol.
 

I bet a master cylinder from an EX500 would work, though you would need to fiddle with the brake light wiring just a bit. Good used ones are still out there for reasonable money. Last time I looked, Brake crafters sold a rebuild kit.