My 650 CSR project

TL;DR-- I got a non-running 81 650-H1 guinea pig.

I haven't properly introduced my new bike. I picked up a cheap, keyless, non-running, 1981 KZ650 H1 guinea pig to practice with until I can pick up the non-running 77 B1 project that is coming my way as soon as I feel like making the 900 mile drive. The H hasn't been licensed in 7 years but only has 8K miles and the crank turns manually and it looked pretty clean. At $350 I figured if it ends up road worthy someday that would be a bonus, but this is a lower priority than the B1 and being poor, every penny I spend on it is a penny I can't spend on the B1, so I will not be investing a lot of money in it. Cheap 650s don't come up often though, so I jumped on it so I can get 650 experience. My 305 is the only bike I've ever owned. Incidentally, I paid $350 for that too, but that was 15 years ago and it was in good running condition.

The H1 had no key, everything was locked, can't get in the gas tank (which I can hear gas sloshing around in, so I expect rust), can't get at the battery. I had no luck with lock picks but I found it easy to remove the helmet lock and get the key code off of it so a new key is on the way and should arrive today.  I drained the carbs but they will obviously need a complete overhaul. It has an accelerator pump and I presume VM24 carbs, but don't know for sure. I have no idea how the petcock works, as its completely different from the 305. I have the FSM and hope there's an owner's manual under the seat. I was happy to see it has electronic ignition, because I was expecting points.

There's fouling on 2 inner plugs, which may be original NGKs. The outer plugs are Champions so obviously newer, so I can't conclude anything from their cleaner condition. Airbox is intact, ducts are rock hard but still available. Some previous bozo (not me, I swear!) busted a couple of the head cooling fins off but the engine looks very clean otherwise, except for the leaky tach cable which I understand is (probably) an easy fix.

It appears to have been stored inside or at least out of the weather most of its life, with only some minor surface rust on exhaust and a couple bolt heads, some bee nests, and dirty rims. I thought the fork seals were shot because they compressed very easily. But 650 novice that I am, I didn't realize they need air too, and they didn't have any. I put 10 lbs in each side, and now they are stiff. Still need an oil change I'm sure but maybe the oil seals are good after all? The oil drops I thought I saw on the lower fork was probably brake fluid because...there's no front caliper. Knucklehead owner said he had the caliper but never found it, so I will have to source one.It has an EK 530 SRx2 chain on it, which is not stock. I find that a bit odd with only 8000 miles, but maybe that's just me. 

 Changed the oil and will replace plugs. Job 1 is just to see if it will start, but I plan a complete carb teardown and cleaning because I know it needs it, and I need the practice because I know the B1 will need it too. Not sure if they are the same carbs or not.

Anyway, like I said my objectives with this bike and willingness to spend on it are quite limited for now.  I'll get around to posting a pic soon. 

Where are the photos?  

Where are the photos?  

Where are the photos?    

Really, man, where are the photos?  

FYI, remove the ignition lock.  You may have to drill out the screw heads.  Take ignition lock to a locksmith, and if they are worth their salt, you will have a key within 15 minutes.  

have calipers too, what side is it on, forgot, have both, stripped, have pistons, need seal kit, and carbs are clean, no pm at this time yet, switch is clean on inside, just want to clean out, all free,  

Nessism wrote:

FYI, remove the ignition lock.  You may have to drill out the screw heads.  Take ignition lock to a locksmith, and if they are worth their salt, you will have a key within 15 minutes.  

 

That's what I wanted to do but Its a 30 mile drive 1-way and he said it would cost up to 50 bucks. I opted to pull the helmet lock and get the code off of it (which requires only bending and unscrewing, no drilling, and minutes). I ordered a key online for 10 bucks. It was supposed to arrive yesterday, then today, now tomorrow. Thanks USPS. Hopefully nobody changed the ignition lock.

I know that nobody wants to see pics of such an old bike here, but here are some anyway. I do have the missing fender. I have concerns about the clutch cable routing, it seems..I dunno, not right.

Oh, also...are those stock CSR bars? They say N02M on them, which doesn't bring up anything.  I don't like them.




 

jwfels wrote:

have calipers too, what side is it on, forgot, have both, stripped, have pistons, need seal kit, and carbs are clean, no pm at this time yet, switch is clean on inside, just want to clean out, all free,  
 

Sorry, I was writing up my H1 manifesto...will pm you now. Thanks!

Nice photos!!!  Thanks.

Looks like a good starting point.  All the critical parts are there.  Assuming you have the title, it shouldn't be too hard to get that thing back on the road.

Looks really good to me for the price 

Good score  Didnt expect it to be that nice . Keep the pics coming .

Nessism wrote:

Nice photos!!!  Thanks.

Looks like a good starting point.  All the critical parts are there.  Assuming you have the title, it shouldn't be too hard to get that thing back on the road.
 

Ah, the title. It's a clean title but the previous 2 bozos never registered it. So if I get it road worthy, I will have to get a bonded title. So technically that would make my price $450 because a bonded title is $100. Another reason I don't want to sink much into it until I know its going to be a rider and not just a guinea pig.  

 

Mr. Belt, parts dept here, sent a pm, and you can have the carbs, don’t need them, using bs32 cv’s, also pics of caliper, and cam cover with emission block offs, shipping, just taking up space here thx

I emailed you Mr Jwfels, thanks again. I don't see a need for the cam covers, but maybe there's something I don't know. There's much I don't know. 

 My key came, and it works. Battery was at 6v so I don't hold out much hope for it, but its on the charger and its up to nearly 12 so maybe? I don't see any rust at all in the gas tank, but I will dump it and put a little fresh stuff in it just to see if it will fire, if it will even crank, once I figure out this fancy petcock lol.  Prime when cold? Prime to start? "On" when warm outside, but engine cold? Have no idea. Got 4 new plugs. I'll put a filter in it once I service the carbs. 

Oh, how the heck do you get the air filter cap off? It unscrews but I haven't figured out how to remove it because it hits the hardware above. Its cracked, so I may not be the first to struggle with it. No owners manual under the seat so I'm still in the dark on easy stuff like that.

That chain still had me curious, I poked around and noticed it has a 32 instead of the stock 33 on the rear.  That's OK but now I'll have to check the front just to make sure the previous owners (who were no more than 18 or 19) didn't do anything strange.  

EDIT: OK, NVM. You have to remove the tank bolt to get the air filter out and I understand the petcock now I think. My 305 is quite different on both items.