My 650 CSR project

air ducts boots, Cruzin Image-Japan, has for 79-80, $25.00,for 4, think I used them when I had vms on bike, used them for the bs 32 swap, don’t think that much difference between 80 and 81, plus shipping an some other charges!!!!???? shipped quick too, sorry to bombard you with info, 

look  under carb insulators

If you really want to keep the stock air box you could always take the "left field" approach I did. Get some rubbers that fit the carbs then replace the bulkhead in your air-box to fit. The pics show the removed section and the finished item (you can get a sheet of 3mm ABS plastic from Amazon for a few bucks) I needed to move the holes 15mm lower to raise the air-box 

jwfels wrote:

air ducts boots, Cruzin Image-Japan, has for 79-80, $25.00,for 4, think I used them when I had vms on bike, used them for the bs 32 swap, don’t think that much difference between 80 and 81, plus shipping an some other charges!!!!???? shipped quick too, sorry to bombard you with info, 

the earlier ducts are different and don't fit the csr airbox.

Took a closer look at the front sprocket with the unlocked washer. The nut was barely finger tight. Maybe they realized they had the wrong sprocket and were in the process of taking it off when they gave up on the bike. The front sprocket is a 525 sprocket, so that will have to go.  I don't want 15/32 anyway. But we are nowhere near needing to worry about that yet.

The problem of the day is I bought and charged a new battery and tried to do a compression test but it cranked only weakly and briefly so I wont trust the one reading I got. Figured a couple minutes on the 2 amp charger wouldn't hurt but that (apparently) blew the 20 amp main fuse because when I came back 5 minutes later it was blown. That happened once before with the old battery, when I put a jumper pack on it, so I decided I wouldn't do that again. 

For the record, in additional to my mechanical deficiencies, I'm electrically inept and should probably stick to pedal powered bicycles. But I won't, because motorcycles are just too fun.

 

My suggestion is to skip compression tests for now.  Old bikes, that haven't been run lately, sometimes show (false) low compression, because the rings get gummy, and valves parked open, get grunge on them.  Not to mention, most idiot previous owners don't adjust valves, and if clearance is low, carbon builds up.

Adjust the valves first off.  Check compression if you must, but even if low, don't panic.  Run a few hundred hard miles on the bike, double check the valves, then perform a hot compression test with the throttle held open.  If still low, and the bike isn't running to your satisfaction, then maybe you truly have an issue that needs to be addressed.

Nessism wrote:

My suggestion is to skip compression tests for now.  Old bikes, that haven't been run lately, sometimes show (false) low compression, because the rings get gummy, and valves parked open, get grunge on them.  Not to mention, most idiot previous owners don't adjust valves, and if clearance is low, carbon builds up.

Adjust the valves first off.  Check compression if you must, but even if low, don't panic.  Run a few hundred hard miles on the bike, double check the valves, then perform a hot compression test with the throttle held open.  If still low, and the bike isn't running to your satisfaction, then maybe you truly have an issue that needs to be addressed.
 

Too late! After I went back to it it seemed to crank better, maybe it just needed to lube itself up. I did put some MMO in the cyclinders when I first brought it home but I probably should have put some regular oil in too. Anyway I got from high 70s to mid-high 80s PSI, with the fouled #2 being lowest. But that's with a cheap HF gauge with a long-ish hose so I'm not worried. Good advice, I will do valves before anything else. I hear that's a lot of fun on these, and who doesn't love fun?

 

What do you smart people recommend with my largely untested petcock? I'm not looking to spend money I don't have to, and I have pretty much none until Monday anyway. Should I leave it alone until it has been tested (by use) or replace it /rebuild it, and with what? I shouldn't have pulled it and derusted my gas tank until I had this decided, but I did, and now I want a full tank 

"if it ain't broke don't fix it" there will be plenty of other things to eat your wallet 

Wookie58 wrote:

"if it ain't broke don't fix it" there will be plenty of other things to eat your wallet 

 

Yeah. Now I know why people say projects get expensive fast. Sheesh.  But I forgot to mention something that may be "broke" but at the very least, came loose. The upper gas line coming off the petcock (I call it a gas line because it heads to a "T" between #2 and #3, but understand some 650s have a vacuum line. I'm not deep enough to the details yet to know what everything is yet...the lower line appears to go to the accel pump) ...anyway it has a brass tube that came off and stayed with the hose when I pulled it off. Is that a problem and if so can it be fixed/sealed/cemented?

That is a fairly common problem. Last time it happened to me, I knurled up the brass tube with a pair of pliers and carefully pressed it back into the petcock. Worked a treat.

I would think you can get the brass port back in to the carb either as Tex indicates or use some fuel proof RTV or the like. Wanted to say the stock petcocks for the H models are all vacuum operated and have 2 ports on them. One for the fuel to get to the carbs, and one to provide vacuum to the petcock to allow fuel to flow. I have added a pic of a set of vm24 carbs with an accel pump and a vacuum port on #2.