Another amateur build thread

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TexasKZ post=907450 userid=14419

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TexasKZ post=907422 userid=14419 Also the bottom halves show no clear wear marks,. but the upper ones do. 

Also, will the cam cover need to be relieved for cam clearance? Keep in mind it is s smog cover.
Thanks.

I have clearanced the bucket bores and had to remove a little material from the side of the head, including a tiny bit of the of the gasket surface particularly around the castings for a couple of the the cam cover bolts. My concern is the corresponding areas of the cover near the bolt bosses, and maybe the casting for the reed cages. I am not quite sure how I could find out where the cams contact the cover, if in fact they do.  The cams are .418 lift

When the motor is together you could lay the cover on without a gasket and rotate the motor two full turns, if the cover moves  indicating contact you could paint the inside of the cover with "engineers blue" in the suspect areas then repeat and look for witness marks (just a suggestion)  if the cover doesn't move without a gasket then will be "well clear" with a gasket installed
 

I am thinking along similar lines, though I'd like to take care of this before sending the head to the machinist. I am envisioning making a small assembly stand for the  head, laying a cam and the cover in place, then slowly rotating the cam with a finger in the cam chain tunnel. Hmm. Guess I need to hunt a small container of machinists blue.

Popping the cams back in with the valves removed would make them easy to turn and you could do both at the same time without risking valves fouling

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Popping the cams back in with the valves removed would make them easy to turn and you could do both at the same time without risking valves fouling
 

Yup. Valves are already out for the bucket bore mangling, um, clearancing.

I am stoked.

I have been ruminating over what exhaust system to get. The Delkevic system seems nice and is popular and is very reasonable priced, but.........
Webike has a titanium system that gives me goosebumps, but I have no idea how it performs and the price makes my knees wobble. 
Then there is Hindle. Designed by a guy who actually races these old beasts. A true 4-2-1 system. Lightweight stainless steel. Kinda wish the muffler came up at more of an angle and wish it was just a touch less expensive. Wonder if it is too quiet. Noticed that their website, well actually the Ripple Rock Racing website, that they list three KZ1000 models and wondered if there were any differences, so I called. 
YEEEEHAAAAW!  Actually, they make two entirely different systems, one of which I did not see on the website. After chatting for a bit, I decided I should just explain what I am building and its intended use, and let him recommend something. Welp, I am getting a slightly modified race system with stepped primaries and an upswept muffler with a street-ish baffle in it. 
Oh, and all this for considerably LESS money than I expected. He even sent me a pic of the system on Brock's super bike.
I wish my bike was ready to install this thing and fire it up.

I apologize for breaking the cardinal rule.

Here is a pic of the system on Brock's bike. My system will be brushed stainless rather than black.