TOPIC:

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wrote:

I also learned that your ignition coils will be overheating as well.. I am sure they have some kind of "timeout" maybe? Or maybe additional "switch" need to be installed to disable? Like if I am in garage working on something - I don't want bike to be on?

If everything is controlled by the m-unit, it could be very smart about how it turns on. For example, it could keep the coils and the headlight off until you push the starter button. But I don't know how the system is wired or if the m-unit can see the state of the starter switch.

That's accurate. When you approach with your phone, the only power draw is a couple of tiny LEDs on the actual M Unit. That would certainly take a while to run down the battery, and as long as you don't leave your phone on or next to the bike for a really extended period, I'm sure it wouldn't make a dent in the charge.

I guess I'm still a little wary of vampiric draws from having had an '83 Honda Sabre, the only bike I know of that had an always-running digital clock in the instrument cluster. I guess the 80's fervor for cocaine reached the offices of Japanese design engineers. If you didn't ride it for a couple days, you had a dead battery. 
 

I don't recall where on the site I saw the glowing recommendation for this stuff:

 

but I really appreciate it. It's kind of an amazing product. There's no adhesive on it; you stretch it out (and since you can stretch it out to 300% of its initial length, you only need to cut a piece of the same length as the wire around which you're spiraling it) and through a chemical/magical process, it fuses to itself. Waaaay better than any electrical tape I've dealt with.

Thanks again, KZR!

Yes, but you will see this tape gathering dust much better than regular electric tape. I try to use sleeving and heatshrink. I do have this silicone tape, use when needed and when it's exposed to high temperatures. But it's putting lot of tension on whatever you wrap (because you have to stretch it) and it doesn't slide as easy (because it's rubbery). 

If your not picky about appearance but, need protection of your wires or whatever your wrapping, this stuff works! I've used this stuff on F-4D Phantom II back in the day. It will stay protected.

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If your not picky about appearance but, need protection of your wires or whatever your wrapping, this stuff works! I've used this stuff on F-4D Phantom II back in the day. It will stay protected.

That is a pretty high  standard   

 

The frame and engine are finally reunited and, yes, it feels so good.

 

Also, I sprayed the first color on the tank, fender, and cowl. It's Chrysler Cool Vanilla, a color I like a lot that inexplicably only seems to show up on minivans.

 

For an ameteur paint job applied in a wood shop, I think it came out pretty well. Once this has had a chance to cure, I'll mask it and paint the main color. Ultimately the vanilla will just be the striping and lettering.

Looking really good Buzz 

Thanks, Wookie. At this point I need all the positive reinforcement I can get.

Okay, question for the room:

Am I correct in my understanding that, in addition to running a 40 amp fused wire from the battery to one of the big lugs on the relay solenoid and from the other big lug to the starter, I need to wire from the battery (+) to one of the little wires on the relay and from the other little relay wire to the R/R? I'm running a Shindengen SH775 (thanks again to Ed for hooking me up with that)

As always, thanks in advance.

 

Buzz if you are talking about the starter solenoid, one small terminal is an earth and the other would normally come from the starter button but in your case will come from the M-unit ( starter solenoid is just a big relay)

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Buzz if you are talking about the starter solenoid, one small terminal is an earth and the other would normally come from the starter button but in your case will come from the M-unit ( starter solenoid is just a big relay)
Also the main battery feed to the solenoid is not normally fused, I would expect a 40amp fuse to blow every time you operate the starter (remember the cable gauge calculation was based on 80 to 90 amps)
 

Hmm...the 40 amp fuse is based on Motogadget's (and Revival Cycles') diagrams, which I reckon could be pretty subjective. Since the M Unit is a spendy little piece of work, I guess I'll run the 40 amp fuse but keep an array of different size fuses so I won't get stranded.
Once again, thanks!