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I read that as needing minimum 9 but less then 32.  +9-32VDC.Its showing battery voltage as either 12 or 24 volt. Might be a different problem 

I might be misreading it.  It probably is +9 (to) 32vdc.  It would suck not having an accurate odometer.  It would also suck needing to buy a different GPS speedo!  

I read the instructions "Red --+9-32VDC" as indicating an operating range of "between positive 9 volts and 32 volts DC"

I don't think you need to (or should) run it as 9V.  The voltage is probably not the issue. 

Where is the GPS receiver mounted?  GPS signals are very weak.  The receiver should have an unobstructed view of the sky.  Also, ignition noise could interfere with GPS signals.

The GPS receiver is mounted on top of the indicator housing, between the two gauges.  Maybe that is the mileage.  If it starts to count upward I guess that will tell.  Since I haven't ridden it over one mile yet I wouldn't see it change yet.  Just might be overthinking things again (as usual!).

The speedometer needle seems to be functioning properly on the short test ride.

I missed this comment when reading before.  If the speedo needle is working, the voltage is fine and the GPS receiver is working.  

If it turns out that the odometer doesn't work but the speedo does, then it's just broken.  Sorry. 

I won't see the tach drive o-ring and seal until next week sometime, so it won't be ridden again until that leak is fixed.  I guess the next ride will tell.  Hopefully the 19 being displayed is the current reading on the odometer and it continues to count up when ridden again.

Even when the work is held up waiting on parts to arrive, I still like to hang out in my shop.  Definitely my happy place!

 

The tachometer drive has the new o-ring and seal installed.  Now that I am getting closer to longer test drives, I went ahead and purchased insurance.  I am currently waiting for a return receipt on a certified letter, trying to contact two of three people listed on the title.  As soon as that is in my possession, I can head to the DMV and get it registered and put a license plate on it.  The new rear shocks are supposed to arrive on Monday, and the last parts I need are a crankcase vent and some hoses to attach to the bottom of the float bowls.  I ordered a small K&N filter for the crankcase vent.  The fuel resistant tubing for the float bowls will arrive today.  I am looking forward to getting in some longer rides before Old Man Winter decides to show up.  We saw two nights this week dip below 30 degrees F.  Yup, Fall came in like a light switch!

Don't mount your crankcase filter right to the breather plate on your motor. If you run your motor hard, or if it is overfilled a bit with oil, it will push out a heavy mist of oil out of the breather. Get yourself some clear flexible plastic tubing and run it as high as you can right out of the breather. Then just run the clear hose to the very back of the bike and exit it to the side and past the rear tire. Then stick your filter in the end of the hose.  That way there is no chance of oil every getting all over the back of your motor, or worse on the rear tire. I have always got a kick out of the folks that just run a hose off the breather plate and dump it just in front of the rear tire!!!!!!!!!

Here is the best photo I have of how I run the vent hose from the breather plate to the back of the bike.
 

I decided to buy a little billet catch can for my crank case breather, I'll fit it near the battery....
 

The pics make it look big but it fits in my hand...

That is a tidy bit of machining and anodizing there.  I would be curious to see where you fit it.  I am not sure there is enough room near my battery.

I've moved everything else so its not much trouble to relocate the battery enough to make room for it, at $22 USD, I'll make it fit....