TOPIC:

I use my long sensitive fingertips to check for sharp edges before

Whoa you guys have lost me there. Don't have any of those plastic tubes. I removed the old oil seals and I do have some VTon replacements. I do not have new valves.

Will I need new valves if I go the Bore to 71mm plus Wiseco K1045 kit route ?

My plan was to clean the valves using a soft brass brush on a drill combined to another brash brush setup on my 90 deg grinder. Then do a lap job using med and fine grit and re-install them with the new seals. I don't think I had an issue with the head. When I poured engine cleaner in the ports no liquid was coming out from the valves. I know gas is different so I might be wrong too.

I still need to finish cleaning the head so I will not be doing that for a while anyway.

Also made a bit of progress on cleaning the case. Still waiting for my tool to come in to finish the clutch.

In the pics the seals are the ones I removed the seal on the left is an intake oil seal and the 2 broken ones are exhaust. They are hard and were difficult to remove.

Scirocco wrote: And always use a condom for the new valve seals.
The condom i am talking about is a plastic tube that goes over the valve stem (valve keeper groove), to protect the sealing lip of the new valve seal to cut and damaged by the sharp edge of the valve keeper groove.

kzrider.com/forum/11-projects/607620-197...ject?start=20#780153

Michael

Great post Scirocco, I will use it as a reference for my valves. I am missing all those tools.

Check for valve guide rock using the valves. If not too bad lapping will work.
Steve

OK its been a while since I gave an update.

Clutch is back together with new friction plates and springs.

My plan was to have the jugs, head and cover cleaned up and then buy a Wiseco K1045 piston set and have the jugs bored. About a $1,000 job.

In the meantime a nice set of jugs and pistons became available so I went ahead and bought them. I figure I will save $500 in the process using these jugs instead even after getting them cleaned up and new rings.

I had already had sent the parts to get cleaned up and and got them today.Nice !

There are some cracks in the chamber of cylinders 2 and 3. I have read on this forum it is not a major issue. 

Should I use something to seal them ?

I will either keep the jugs for future use or sell them. They are clean, no broken fins so I think I could probably use them eventually.

I will start to put the head back together, lapping the valves, new seals etc.

The cracks in the chamber of cylinders 2 and 3 are not a problem.
Some KZ 900/1000 cylinder heads got cracks over the time of use but never fail in a loose valve seat ring or in a drop out and valve damage.
In other words leave it as it is and don´t worry about it, it´s only a cosmetically defect. 

Scirocco wrote: The cracks in the chamber of cylinders 2 and 3 are not a problem.
Some KZ 900/1000 cylinder heads got cracks over the time of use but never fail in a loose valve seat ring or in a drop out and valve damage.
In other words leave it as it is and don´t worry about it, it´s only a cosmetically defect. 

That's what I gathered from the posts I found here. Been reading and watching a bunch of videos about valve lapping and putting the head back together. I have the valve tool stick with the suction cups and some coarse and fine compound as well as new seals so I am going to go at it this week-end until I get the new jugs.

The day this bike starts will be a glorious one.

New jugs came in yesterday. No broken fins. The cylinder walls are nice and smooth, no scoring. I am sending it out to get vapour blasted.

1- Should I also get the pistons vapour blasted ? I already took off the rings and I will putting new ones. Would you get the pistons blasted with the pins in place ? My concern is causing any wear to the pins.

2 - There is a small ring of carbon at the very top portion of each cylinder. I this a concern ?

I put the head back together yesterday. New Vton seals. Re-installed the valves.

Now waiting for the jugs to come back.

I am looking for new rings. Are they all pretty much the same ? Looking at the ones available from Z1 but there is also a set on E-Bay that is less expensive.

That head was media blasted correct? In that last picture with the used cover gasket. I see a lot of residue in most of the bolt holes.
I hope you run a thread chaser / 6mm tap down all the holes. And washed that several times. Used compressed air, before you put it together?
Just curious? I know digital pictures are deceiving.

z1kzonly wrote: That head was media blasted correct? In that last picture with the used cover gasket. I see a lot of residue in most of the bolt holes.
I hope you run a thread chaser / 6mm tap down all the holes. And washed that several times. Used compressed air, before you put it together?
Just curious? I know digital pictures are deceiving.

The head was Vapor Blasted. When I reinstalled the valves I ran absorbent shop towels with a dab of oil a few times in each of the valve guides, then I lapped the valves, cleaned everything after using dry wet towels and oiled everything again. I put some high temp Kawasaki grease on the valve stems too. That's were I stopped. 

I will need to wash the rest of the head before I put it back together for sure. 

What is a good method ? I was thinking hot soapy water then rinse. Then either use compressed air to dry it and then finish of with WD40.

Never done this before so I'm in no hurry.

I think I am going to replace that old gasket too and I was looking at the pulley dampers and I think I will change those too. Might as well while the engine is opened. 

I started reading about carbs in the past days to see what I need to do when the time comes.

Found out I have a Mikuni VM26 pumper. Apparently not the best choice but it is what came with the 1979 KZ1000B3 so for now it's what I have. When I bought the bike the carbs cam with an invoice saying they were ultrasonically cleaned but that was in 2014.

I undid the float bowls and cleaned everything out with Carb cleaner. There was some dirt in #1 and yellowish residue in all 4, probably from what is left when the fuel evaporates. The floats move well. Also looked at the 2 diaphragms. I think I lost the ball bearing. Ordered a rebuilt kit as the gaskets don't look too good anyway. 

I was surprised to see that the jets are 130's ? Seems high.

I did not figure out yet how to tell what size my pilots are but stock should be 15.

From what I have read Stock main jets should be 102.5

Plus 1 because it was setup too lean originally = 103.5

Plus 1 K&N Pods = 104.5

Plus 1 4 into 1 = 105.5

Plus 1 close to sea level ( I am 49m above sea level, is that close ?) = 106.5

So is 106.5 good ?

I have read on this forum a good setting with my setup was 112.5 with 17.5 pilot.

Anyone have a similar setup ?