The Friendship Bike - NobleHops restores a 75 Z1

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08 Oct 2015 15:31 #693855 by NobleHops
Replied by NobleHops on topic The Friendship Bike - NobleHops restores a 75 Z1

swest wrote: Very nice. Check out your transmission dogs while you are at it.
Steve


Will do Steve, as soon as that's apart.

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08 Oct 2015 19:09 #693883 by SWest

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09 Oct 2015 00:28 #693891 by Kidkawie

NobleHops wrote:

Kidkawie wrote: If you get into engines like that you should pick up a dial bore gauge or a set of T gauges. I prefer a micrometer for tool setup but you can get away with a set of digital calipers, depending on how accurate they are. Micrometers are the way to go IMO.


Kid, all, would you help me choose a set? I was on Amazon today looking at those very things, but I don't know what's good and what's Chinesium crap. (and I am NOT against purchasing a Chinese set, per se) I am totally up for owning a bore gauge and a larger micrometer then the wee one I have. I do have digital calipers but I can see that a big mic would definitely be better.

www.amazon.com/b?node=15708741

TIA for your thoughts fellas,

N.


I have the $50 gauge in the case. The micrometer is used to set the tool up. Set the micrometer to what the standard bore size is, insert the gauge with appropriate extension inside the micrometer and set the dial to zero. Insert the gauge into the cylinder, whatever it reads under zero is wear.

1975 Z1 900
1994 KX250 Supermoto
2004 KX125

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09 Oct 2015 03:37 #693902 by 531blackbanshee
Replied by 531blackbanshee on topic The Friendship Bike - NobleHops restores a 75 Z1
i own this dial bore gauge
www.mscdirect.com/product/details/75128066
and use it with starret and mitutoyo micrometers.
the main thing is that everything is properly marked and returns to zero the same everytime.
i have a cheaper chinese made bore gage that i use for smaller than 2".
its is not as well made and the adjustment is coarser but it is accurate.
this page shows several different ones.
www.mscdirect.com/browse/tn/Measuring-In...Gages?navid=12107853

hth,

leon

skiatook,oklahoma 1980 z1r,1978 kz 1000 z1r x 3,
1976 kz 900 x 3
i make what i can,and save the rest!

billybiltit.blogspot.com/

www.kzrider.com/forum/5-chassis/325862-triple-tree-custom-work

kzrider.com/forum/5-chassis/294594-frame-bracing?limitstart=0

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17 Oct 2015 09:39 #694892 by NobleHops
Hey, wha, WHO TURNED OUT THE LIGHTS *fumble fumble*

CLICK!

Hey, that's better.

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17 Oct 2015 10:01 #694896 by NobleHops
More progress was made while I fumbled around in the dark.

Got the engine all the way apart, did snap off one of the 8mm crankcase bolts (grrr!) but it was unavoidable I think - this particular fastener was super powdery from galling to the aluminum, about the worst I've seen, and being so long there was no way to get any penetrants down to it. I DID heat the ever loving snot out of the lower crankcase, but even so, I could feel that runny Suzuki peanut butter sickening feeling as I tried to remove it and it gave up. There's enough protruding to weld a nut onto it, I'm not worried.

Rigged up a little box to support the crankcase:

[img


Took a few photos for reference so I would remember how it all came apart :-)

[img


[img


[img


Hoisted it onto the lift to remove the engine stand bracket:

[img


Spun off the crankcase bolts, breaking one (lower right)
[img


...

Nils Menten * RestoCycle LLC * Tucson, Arizona * USA

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17 Oct 2015 10:06 #694899 by SWest

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17 Oct 2015 10:10 - 17 Oct 2015 10:24 #694901 by NobleHops
And here are some detail shots and some of the interesting things I found.

[img


[img


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Here's some interesting stuff. Look at the wear on these shift forks!

[img


Scorch marks:

[img


[img


Some evidence of bearings spinning. This engine must've been oil-starved before those big pistons were installed.

[img


[img


...

Nils Menten * RestoCycle LLC * Tucson, Arizona * USA

Proud sponsor of KZRider: kzrider.com/forum/14-vendor-forum/604812...on-shocks-usa#751083

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Last edit: 17 Oct 2015 10:24 by NobleHops.

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17 Oct 2015 10:15 #694902 by NobleHops
The head also came apart for vapor blasting and inspection, and it needs work. Three of the valve guides are definitely bad - one was really sticky, and two were really loose. So this came all the way apart and is getting cleaned up before it goes off to my machine shop guy for installation of new valve guides, and I'll have him do a full valve job on it while he has it, and check the mating surface to the jugs for flatness. i did put a steel straightedge on it and shone a light from behind and it looked good, but I'll let him judge.

[img


[img

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17 Oct 2015 10:19 #694903 by NobleHops
Ditto the cylinders: They need honing at least so I am going to give these to him and see if he can fit the pistons to what I have and get the ring end gaps correct without new parts. Fingers crossed.

[img


[img


[img


[img


[img


...

Nils Menten * RestoCycle LLC * Tucson, Arizona * USA

Proud sponsor of KZRider: kzrider.com/forum/14-vendor-forum/604812...on-shocks-usa#751083

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17 Oct 2015 10:39 #694904 by NobleHops
That nearly catches us up, but I need to take some more close-up photos of the transmission gears and dogs and get yoru thoughts on those Steve, and also do the inspection of the oil pump.

Steve, you posted some photos of new valve parts from eBay a while back. I'm going to measure and inspect what I have and get my machinist's input before I order anything, but I need valve guides and seals at the very minimum. Do we have a favorite vendor for those parts that we trust? I'm a huge fan of Z1 Enterprises ( www.Z1enterprises.com ) and also Z1 Parts.net ( www.ziparts.net ), Certainly going to check those guys first.

I'm off to hunt up shift forks too.

N.

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