Nelson's KZ1000 Fighter? build

the ball bearing gives the bolt something to push against,you need to be really carefull to get right size of bearing so it doesnt push into threads

x2 what wireman says. You need a fairly large bearing. I had to use the impact gun on that bolt to get mine loose. I had made the same mistake by not removing the alternator when the engine was still in the bike. Once I got the right size bearing, one shot with the impact got it loose.

I'm glad to see you making progress. I have been watching...

Maybe I'll just grind a rounded tip on the bolt and grease it. I know I don't have the bearing. Where can I buy just one ball of the right size?

Glad someone's reading this, I've been starting to wonder if I'm just posting for my own entertainment :huh:

Is the bolt long enough to push the rotor off?

You didn't get nearly 4000 views without someone reading. I have learned through pm's since I did my build that there are very many members who read my whole build and never made one post in my thread.

As for the individual bearing, check your local Ace Hardware. My guy has one of those old school Ace stores that has a million things crammed in little corners. Good thing he's there or nobody could ever find anything. I know I got some individual bearing balls to fix the cranks on my son's bike.

Also, assuming that your bolt is long enough, you should be able to grind the threads off the end and it would accomplish the same thing. The problem with bolts that get ground is that often times they are only case hardened and once you grind that off, then the bolt is pretty soft and just gets mashed easily. If you over do it you could wind up with the bolt wedged in there because it mushroomed out from tightening. Maybe drop a nut in there that is large enough to bridge the hole in the end of the crank, and then tighten on that.

^Yea what doubledub said, I just went through what your doing @ 1 month ago with 3 cranks. It shd work fine with the bolt you have in the pic. The cranks are hardend at the factory so don't worry about messing your crank up. The reason a bearing works somewhat better is because there is less friction on the end of the bolt/puller. If you use a bearing be sure to use the largest size that will fit & make sure its not too soft or you can make a mess plugging the end of the crank and that would suck.

Use a good quality oil filter wrench (for cars/trucks) the metal band or strap kind with a handle on it to stabilize the alt. when trying to remove the crank bolt works very well.

Use a long extention and breaker bar for the bolt and that puppy shd come right off. It helps having another dude to hold the oil filter wrench whilst you crank on the bolt.
Regards, Doug

yes I think so

I just tried putting the bolt in with a small washer against the crank to act as a bearing of sorts, and some grease. No luck. I also tried the bolt only. No luck. I never put a lot of torque on it because I was worried about damage. The 1/2" airgun was on maybe 1/3 of it's power or less. I took the bolt out many times to inspect and the crank is still OK. I think the bolt started to mushroom slightly because it got a little harder to take out. that's when I stopped.

Oh hey just realized I missed a couple posts above, yes I'll see if I have a nut that will work. I think we have some old hardware stores around here also. Thanks for the tips.

Tell me about crankshaft welding please. Who can do it and how much should it cost?
Assuming I get the bloody alternator off I think maybe I'm gonna get some welding done. I'd at least like to price it. thanks

Hey Nelson, Give Falicon a call they are an excellent crank shop and know what they are doing. Your prolly looking @ $1,000 (roughly) for welding, balance, & indexing.

I also forgot to mention... give the bolt/puller a sharp tap on the head with a hammer and then turn the bolt, keep repeating this and that alt will come off. Cheers, Doug

ye gods! $1000 really? I think I read $180 on another thread here some time ago. Don't recall where. I only want the welding, not the other stuff. It was a smooth, good running engine before I took it apart and I'm not building a racer. The only performance stuff I'm putting in is the 1075 pistons.

Tonight I tried the rotor with a nut that fit perfectly. I hit with full power of the 1/2 airgun and it wouldn't budge. Also hammered the bolt many times.... grrrr. I guess I have to find a ball bearing someplace, but I'm a bit skeptical it will make a difference.

By the way I have heard several people complain about poor customer service from Falicon. I have no personal experience with them tho.

Hmmmm that's interesting with regards to Falicon.... this is the first time I've read anything negative about them. You could inquire over at APE they have been around for ages I know they have a pretty high end machine shop and I'm 99% sure they weld cranks.

If your not going to run a slick and/or drag race your bike you will have no problems with running 1075 with a stock crank/rods. I'm running a 1200 wisco kit, stage 2 head, 265/410 cams, RS 36 carbs.... yada yada with a stock crank/rods on the street and no worries whatsoever with the bottom end.

I don't know whats up with your alt being cranky.... interesting... just use more swear words (lol) Doug