Megasquirt / Microsquirt a KZ

No eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configurationThis is the sensor i had in mind if mine doesn't work for some reason.

The hole in the cyl head is approx 17mm, the nose on this sensor is just under 13mm & the thread 9mm so only 4mm will locate

PROSPORT OIL/WATER TEMPERATURE SENSOR STANDARD 10mm METRIC FINE THREAD

T_Dub wrote: Well right now on DIYautotune, a microsquirt is listed at $99,900 so its pretty much the deal of the century.

If anyone is interested, I have an Electromotive Tec II ECU with coils. I can't verify that it still works, but it should. I can test it though if someone was interested.

Here's what it looks like, its basically a full standalone engine management system, fully adjustable, ton of inputs.

Hi T_Dub

$99,900???? Surely that is missing a decimal somewhere? Not being a smart a#@&, Was curious myself until I saw that.
Thanks
TennesseeZ ED

No eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configuration

750steve wrote: This is the sensor i had in mind if mine doesn't work for some reason.

The hole in the cyl head is approx 17mm, the nose on this sensor is just under 13mm & the thread 9mm so only 4mm will locate

PROSPORT OIL/WATER TEMPERATURE SENSOR STANDARD 10mm METRIC FINE THREAD

750Steve, I think that sensor is for direct contact to fluid. Not sure how well it will work when it has a air pocket inside its mounting hole. Think of it this way. When that sensor is screwed into a say thermostat housing, and the tip is in a flow of coolant, the threaded body is connected to the metal housing. When the water disappears, the gauge which was reading normal, now drops with no fluid to conduct the heat transfer. Then once the metal gets hot enough, the transfer starts from the metal. By then it is overheating severely. That was why I posted that 1 wire sensor, it is one I'm familiar with, and screws directly into the Cylinder Head on an Air Cooled Motor.
Since the controller needs a two wire sensor, I'd try to find one from an Injected Air Cooled Motor. One for metal heat transfer and not fluid immersion.
Otherwise one way to get better heat transfer may be to have the cavity contain a high temp grease for transfer. Big issue I see with that is the good possibility of creating hydraulic force when tightening the sensor. You don't want that, as it could crack the engine block easily. You would have to be Very careful trying to fill the air space.
You probably read this post: www.msextra.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=71&t=38715
Then there is this also: www.ebay.com/gds/CHT-Gauges-for-Air-Cool...0000007206732/g.html

www.synerject.com/utility/generators/chts-p17-13 Doesn't show thread size. Might be worth a email to them. The tip length could be an issue also.
Then like you posted already, these are the others I know work with Air Cooled motors: www.digital-speedos.co.uk/temperature-se...led-engines-28-p.asp

Ed, when you edited the quote, you made it appear that the pic was of a MicroSquirt, when it's really a Electromotive Tec II ECU with coils mounted on it. Accidental I'm sure.

Here's the MicroSquirt, and only $299.00, the earlier price was just a place holder while waiting for the new version to arrive.

Sorry!! Just asking the price clarification, didnt intend to confuse things. . Obviously, this is too complicated for me . Guess I'll just keep quiet and stay with Carburetors...sighhhh.....old . At least that's my excuse. :S :dry:

I thought about going the FI route but its too annoying to get it all working IMO, plus its adds about 10 more new things that can fail on the bike on any given time while riding...

It's an adventurous task for sure.

Sorry Ed, didn't mean to offend, just didn't want anyone thinking that was a MicroSquirt in that pic. Especially not a $99.000 one

If you're not adventurous, then it's better to find someone that is to do it for you.
There are shops that specialize in installing and tuning various MegaSquirts, and they seem to stay pretty busy.

It's certainly not for everyone, you need to be a decent wrench and electronics tech, to have a good reading ability, and a little patience. Learning curve is a little steep if you're just starting out.

How are the various EFI projects running out there? Looks like a few years since this thread was active, but there is good information in these pages!

I am planning to EFI convert the '83 Spectre 750 project I have with Microsquirt. And Im curious about how others are using crank/cam trigger wheels.

I was initially hoping to purchase a C5 ignition, with the optical trigger setup that looks very nice. But after reading into the Microsquirt manual a 'high resolution' trigger wheel like the one used by C5 is not supported.

I could do a MS fuel only install with the C5 taking care of ignition, they even come with multiple timing maps. But I feel like that would be a half-hearted install vs using trigger wheels and sequential tuning. Going all the way to full sequential means trigger wheels, which could easily go on the crank, but I dont see an easy way to add the needed cam trigger wheel.

Does anyone have experience with fuel-only vs sequential injection install with a squirted KZ? Is it worth the trouble to go all the way for sequential? Not trying to build a drag stripper or land speed bike; driveability and reliability are higher on my priority list than outright power.

I'd like to know too. I've been hot to build one and it seeems like it's getting more accessable.

I like to do a MS conversion on my project bike.
I have all parts twice like a GPZ1100UT throttle body with injectors,fuel pump,wiring, fuel pressure regulator, air/engine temp sensors, etc...
A KZR member called Dave Sloan, his dad did a MS on his KZ650, it is ruining great and the engine start at the first push of the starter button!
I am missing a write up for this like a basis map for the MS and so on....

Has anyone considered using the tach drive for cam timing? I'm guessing the gear reduction makes it unusable?

From 11 years ago...