Dutch 1977 Z1000 Build

kzrider.com/forum/11-projects/604174-that-kz650

Thanks Steve,
I am gonna take the filler cap apart tomorrow and see if the hole is blocked.
David,
The tank was not bad but still was a little bit dirty.
Cleaned it with 18 ltrs of Coke and some other stuff.
Looks clean now but just to be sure I put the filters in to protect the carbs and to have a "window" so I can see if there is actual gas flowing or dirt in the gas tank.
I had them on all my bikes (25-30 Years ago:lol: ) and never gave me any trouble.
There is an arrow for the flow direction and it makes sense because now you can see if there is dirt in the filter.

Alther question...


What are these for? I have short tubes on them but not connected to anything.

Eric

Hello Wiers
These are the air vents for the float bowls, don't block them.
Put some fuel lines on them and route them under your seat or side covers.

just for giggles i would try just a straight line.

i don't run any filters as fool hardy as that seems. :ohmy:

leon

So I took the filters out and nothing changed

Cleaned the filler cap and even run it with cap open, no difference.

Put a DB killer in the muffler and only the sound changed (neighbours happy)

Tried to do something with the pilot air/fuel screw, no succes:
I watched a few video's and read a lot on the forum how to do it.
Turn it in-engine stops and turn it out 1 1/2 turn and then turn it out till rpm does not increase anymore.
Nothing changes when I turn it out no increase in rpm whatsoever.

Next step is go back to the plastic Jets which where in the carbs when I bought it with the nr 133,7 on it.
And remove the filter in the petcock.

Also the good looking brake fluid reservoir from the rear brake is leaking, so back to the ugly non leaking one.

:pinch:

Allright, bought some different size main jets and first tried the 130.
Starting and idle is great, midrange is stuttering and puffing and WOT is going like crazy.
What I understand from reading all the post and tips on this forum, is that the needle is responsible for the midrange.
But..... is there a way to take them out and adjust them without taking the whole carb assembly apart?

Fuel supply is solved.
Shortened the fuel lines and drilled the small fuel filters out till 5 mm, filling up OK.

Question nr 2:
Im going ahead and replace the head gasket (leaking like an idiot)
next week I will be in the states and like to place an order with Z1E.
What do I need for a head gasket replacement?
This is what I found....


Are these OK and what else do I need or is handy to replace at the same time?

Thanks
Eric

every one says the copper gaskets will weep oil unless you have your head o-ringed.

here is my suggestion for a head gasket.
store.schnitzracing.com/cometic-head-gas...wasaki-kz900-kz1000/
the part # C8018 is the one piece head gasket for bores up to 1075cc.


leon

p.s. dynoman also has a good selection of head gaskets.
www.dynomanperformance.com/engine/gaskets-cometic.html

have to scroll about halfway down the page.

On my CV carbs,you undo the tops to get at the needles. No need to remove the carbs. If you have grooves in the needle you can move the clip up or down,if not (as on mine) put a washer under the clip to raise the needle. Thats as much as I know.

531blackbanshee wrote: every one says the copper gaskets will weep oil unless you have your head o-ringed.

here is my suggestion for a head gasket.
store.schnitzracing.com/cometic-head-gas...wasaki-kz900-kz1000/
the part # C8018 is the one piece head gasket for bores up to 1075cc.


Im with Leon on when and why to use copper gaskets.
Copper is for built up fire breathing motors like a turbo build. . But then only if the cylinder is o ringed around each bore.
And then I use the one piece head gasket and take extra measures around the oil galleries coming up the cylinder studs and filling the center cam chain o ring area with silicone. ( Can be lots of trouble if not done right )
Stick with factory style gaskets from Kawasaki or a quality company like Cometic.
You will be much happier
DaveB)

leon

p.s. dynoman also has a good selection of head gaskets.
www.dynomanperformance.com/engine/gaskets-cometic.html

have to scroll about halfway down the page.

Thanks for the advice my friends.
So If I take the C8018 I do not need the O ring?
And what about extra liquid gasket? is that necessary or is the one piece gasket good by itself?

Eric

David, you have another set of carbs than I have.
When I open up mine I look on top of the bracket holding the valve and cannot reach the needle

Eric

Wiers wrote: Thanks for the advice my friends.
So If I take the C8018 I do not need the O ring?
And what about extra liquid gasket? is that necessary or is the one piece gasket good by itself?

Eric

correct wiers.no o-ringing necessary.

i use a thin layer of www.amazon.com/CRC-401612-Copper-Gasket-Compound/dp/B000M8NZ8E

hth,
leon